Unlike a traditional walking tour, FTB tours are self-guided. Created by two food-loving friends, Emily and Michelle, the company aims to facilitate the real taste of Mallorca “without the research, the hassle, or the tourist traps”. 

Emily and Michelle spent years exploring the culinary scene, getting to know chefs, and building up connections. The current offerings are Wine & Dine and Brunch & Ride (on the e-scooter). The concept is simple: Emily and Michelle plan your itinerary and make timed reservations in the city’s best restaurants. Each visit includes a food and beverage pairing, showcasing the island’s true culinary essence as local chefs envision it. Each experience comes with a guided tour, accessible through a web app, with a clear map. A selection of cultural points of interest with historic annotations are noted along the way. 

The tour is incomparable to the traditional walking food tour, not only because it is self-guided, but mostly because it takes you to new and elevated restaurants, offering a unique experience for each visit. 

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This experience was hosted by Food Tours Balearics, who did not review or approve this story.

Vermuteria La Rosa: Russian potato salad with anchovies, served with an Iberian ham croquette and blue cheese, a spinach croquette, and house-made vermouth. Images by Kateryna Topol.

Decision-making behind the scenes

Emily and Michelle have built a network of restaurant partners and keep a close eye on all new openings in the city. “When a new spot opens, we’re usually among the first to try it and see if it fits our standards,” Michelle added. The duo try every dish with the restaurant’s chef, who might even create a custom dish for the visit. The dishes chosen typically reflect that restaurant’s speciality, “if a place is famous for its meat, we won’t serve dessert there”.

“We aim to start the tour with lighter fish or vegetarian dishes, have a more filling meat dish in the middle, and finish with dessert,” Michelle shared. The order of the restaurants is based on their capacity to receive guests that specific evening and the logistics of getting easily from one place to another. Naturally, this means that today’s tour might not be the same as the tour tomorrow.

When selecting restaurant partners, Emily and Michelle look for three key qualities: excellent and welcoming service, willingness to share the story behind the palace and the dish, and the quality of food. “We’re not doing a standard tapas tour, so the food needs to be creative, high quality, and part of a more gourmet experience,” Michelle stressed.

The points of interest stops are chosen based on the restaurant route, “Palma is full of stories, so there’s something interesting to mention around every corner”.

The Wine & Dine Tour of Palma Old Town

The Wine & Dine Tour of Palma Old Town took us away from the tourist centre and into the neighbourhoods. Our tour started at La Rosa Vermutería, steps away from Plaça del Mercat. La Rosa is a vermouth taberna with an old-fashioned vibe, framed with subway-tiled walls and curved brick arches. The walls are stacked with preserves, drying vegetables, and cured meat in that uniquely odd manner where food becomes interior decor. On today’s menu is a Russian potato salad with anchovies, served with an Iberian ham croquette and blue cheese, and a spinach croquette for contrast. House-made red vermouth over ice is served as a beverage pairing. 

Further away from the centre, past La Misericòrdia, we find L’ànima Restaurant in an airy plaza. It is still early in the day, so at first, the co-owner Adrià Salas Rotger is able to give us his complete attention, recommending wine (Els Vinyerons Pregadéu Rosé) and sharing insights about the business. On the menu are roasted lettuce hearts with escalivada and falafel. Spicy olive olives hit the table first with the wine, in case we got there a little peckish.

The next stop takes us to Palma’s brand new 5-star hotel Concepció by Nobis, a Michelin guide hotel with a beautiful restaurant, Xalest. Led by an award-winning chef, Xema Álvarez, Xalest offers a sharing menu of tapas, pintxos, appetisers, and entreés to showcase not only Mallorcan food by the Spanish way of dining. An artfully plated pork cheek, served on a vegetable puree, is paired with a generous glass of Spanish red wine, neatly wrapping up the savoury portion of this experience. To complete the meal, we head to El Neo for a sweet treat, taking us back closer to the city centre.

Xalest: Pork cheek served on a vegetable puree. Images by Kateryna Topol.

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We met Joan from Nofrills Excursions Mallorca in the plaza near the Royal Palace of La Almudaina, surrounded by street vendors and caricature artists seated in the palm tree shade. Equipped with a bottomless backpack (water? napkin? I got you), Joan handed each of us a map of the route for the Foodie tour in Palma de Mallorca. Having taken a brief look at the map, everyone promptly tucked it away in their pocket and proceeded to blindly follow the orange t-shirt through sunny Palma.

This article might contain affiliate links. Read the disclaimer about affiliate links & PR gifting here.
This experience was hosted by Nofrills Excursions Mallorca, who did not review or approve this story.

Royal Palace of La Almudaina, Palma de Mallorca. All images by Kateryna Topol.

Joan has been hosting food tours for ten years, “last year, I took 2,000 people on a tour,” he proudly announced. Throughout the day, he swiftly switched between English and Spanish, occasionally translating various narratives to German for a family in the group. Mallorca uses three languages: Spanish (Castilian), Catalan, and Mallorquí (local Catalan dialect), but most people speak at least some English. With direct flights from most of the UK, this part of Spain has been a popular tourism destination for decades, attracting hospitality workers from around the world. This part of Spain is where I’ve spoken the least Spanish. 

Weaving through the city streets, Joan shared various pieces of historic knowledge, occasionally gathering us in a tight circle to share a story. “See this building,” he points our attention to Can Forteza Rey, “it looks like an Antoni Gaudí building, doesn’t it? It is actually the work of his student, Lluís Forteza Rey”. Gaudí’s influence is very prominent in Palma’s modernist architecture, so this was not the first architectural work of art we came across on this day.

Empanadas from Ca na Cati Pastisseria, Palma de Mallorca.

Having situated us by Palma City Hall, Joan ran across the street to bring us the special treat: Empanadas Mallorquinas. This round pastry, made with soft crumbly dough, encloses a delicious combination of jamón ibérico (Iberico ham) and a mix of vegetables in a perfectly rounded little pocket. The dish is typically served on the last day of Easter and requires an extensive amount of labour to produce, “altogether it takes eleven hours to make this,” Joan paused for effect. Ours came from Pastisseria Cort (Ca na Cati Pastisseria), “best empanadas in Palma,” he pointed at the corner shop.

We looped through Carrer de Sant Miquel pedestrian street multiple times, “watch your bags on this street,” Joan patted his backpack. The first sit-down portion of the tour took us to Omare, where the team greeted us by promptly pouring wine for the table, some of which they produce themselves. One by one, tapas plates began to hit the table: tortilla Española (Spanish egg omlet), croquetas de pollo (chicken croquettes), followed by octopus with potatoes. And for the grand finale, a charcuterie board with local cheeses, grapes, and jamón ibérico. Gasps of excitement echoed across the table at the sight of the sharing plate. 

“Bon profit!” he held up his wine glass, “that’s how you say bon appétit in Catalan”.

For the next half hour, we were instructed to explore Mercat de l’Olivar, solo. My initial confusion dissolved as soon as my eyes met the open market. Fresh produce stalls, cheese vendors, multiple ibérico ham counters with rows and rows of ham hanging from the ceiling. All the brightly lit up pintxos stations, and quick service bars were calling my name. Some tour attendees chose to shop. Others, having quickly toured the market, found a spot between the locals to enjoy a quick glass of sparkling wine and absorb the vibes of the casual afternoon market magic. The free time was well justified. 

Looping back around and into a narrow alleyway, we made our way to Orxateria I Xocolateria Ca’n Joan de s’Aigo for a sweet surprise. This intricately decorated cafe has a rich local history, both cultural and culinary, but that bit, you will have to hear from Joan. On the menu as a parting sweet note is ensaïmada – a light, sugared pastry made with reduced lard from ibérico. Yes, it sounds weird, but it is absolutely delicious. The pastry is accompanied by a cold glass of “almond milk ice,” something you can only get here, in this shop.

Like most food tour groups, we all got to know each other a little better. Joan’s new family portrait was taken shortly after, under the one-thousand-year-old olive tree in Olivera de Cort. 

Vegetables at Mercat de l’Olivar on each side and the thousand-year-old-olive tree at the centre.

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Palma works beautifully as a short city break. The historic centre is compact and walkable, you rarely need a taxi, and within twenty minutes you can go from a Gothic cathedral to a sandy beach. Here is exactly what to do in Palma, plus the best beaches, day trips, and where to stay.

Is Palma de Mallorca worth visiting?

In a word, yes. Palma is the capital of the Balearic Islands, and around half the island’s population lives here, which gives it a real year-round buzz rather than the seasonal emptiness of a pure resort town. The old town is a maze of honey-coloured stone, shaded squares, and narrow lanes built over Roman and Moorish foundations. Wrapped around it, you will find a working port, a palm-lined seafront, and some genuinely excellent restaurants. It is stylish without being stuffy, and small enough to feel manageable on a first visit.

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Exploring Palma Old Town: Cathedral, palaces and hidden squares

Palma’s old town is where most first visits begin, and the main sights sit within a ten-minute walk of one another, so this part is best done on foot.

Palma Cathedral (La Seu): The city’s must-see landmark

Start at Palma Cathedral, known locally as La Seu. It rises straight out of the old sea walls and is one of the most striking Gothic cathedrals in Spain, with a vast rose window and an interior partly reimagined by Antoni Gaudí. Go early, before the light gets harsh and the cruise crowds arrive, and walk the seafront promenade in front of it for the postcard view across the reflecting pool.

The Royal Palace of La Almudaina

Directly beside the cathedral stands La Almudaina, a 13th-century royal palace built on the site of a Moorish fortress and still used for official ceremonies. The gardens and the views back over the bay are worth the short visit, and they set up the layers of history you will keep meeting all over the city.

Left: The Royal Palace of La Almudaina by Federico Di Dio. Right: Palma Cathedral by Lucas Derksen.

The Arab Quarter & The Arab Baths

Behind the cathedral lies the old Arab Quarter, a tangle of quiet lanes, courtyards, and small museums. Seek out the Banys Àrabs (Arab Baths), one of the few surviving traces of Moorish Palma, tucked into a peaceful garden. This is the part of the old town where getting deliberately lost pays off most.

Passeig del Born & The best shopping in Palma

When you are ready for life and shade, head to Passeig del Born, the tree-lined boulevard that acts as Palma’s main artery. For shopping in Palma, the streets around the Born and Carrer Jaume III mix Spanish brands, independent boutiques, and design shops, while the smaller side streets hide ceramics, linen, and the island’s famous woven espadrilles. Stop for a coffee and an ensaïmada, the spiral Mallorcan pastry, before moving on.

Bellver Castle: The best views over Palma

Round off the old-town exploring at Bellver Castle, a rare circular fortress on a wooded hill just west of the centre. It is a short taxi or uphill walk, and the reward is the best panorama in the city: the whole of Palma, the cathedral, and the Bay of Palma laid out below. Time it for late afternoon and the golden light does the rest.

Palma’s markets, beaches & Local food scene

Once you have seen the monuments, turn to the markets, food, and seafront, the things to do in Palma that show how the city actually lives.

Mercat de l’Olivar & The best markets in Palma

Start at Mercat de l’Olivar, the city’s main covered market, for fresh produce, Mallorcan cheese, charcuterie, and a stand-up seafood breakfast. It is one of the most enjoyable free things to do in Palma and a great place to assemble a picnic. If it is a Saturday, the Santa Catalina market nearby is just as lively.

The best beaches in Palma de Mallorca

Palma is one of the few cities where you can walk or cycle to the sand. Playa de Palma is the long, lively stretch east of the centre, backed by bars and promenade. For something closer and more local, Can Pere Antoni beach sits a short walk from the old town, and the pretty fishing quarter of Portixol beyond it is perfect for a seafood lunch by the water. These are the easiest Palma beaches to reach without a car.

Where to eat: The best restaurants in Palma

For dinner, cross into Santa Catalina, the old fishermen’s neighbourhood that has become the city’s food capital. It is home to some of the best restaurants in Palma, from its buzzing market food stalls to modern Mallorcan tasting menus and casual tapas bars. Book ahead at weekends, when locals and visitors fill the terraces.

Palma nightlife: Bars, wine & Live music

Palma nightlife is more grown-up than the island’s resort strips. Santa Catalina and the lanes around La Lonja are full of wine bars, cocktail spots, and live music, while the seafront Paseo Marítimo has the latter clubs. A glass of local wine on a quiet plaça is just as valid a way to end the night.

The best beaches in Mallorca beyond Palma

If you have a third day, the best beaches in Mallorca are an easy drive from the city. Highlights include Es Trenc, a long stretch of white sand and shallow turquoise water in the south; the dramatic cove of Cala Llombards; and the calm, family-friendly bays around Alcúdia in the north. Hire a car early, as parking fills fast in summer.

The best day trips from Palma de Mallorca

Mallorca rewards exploring, and the best day trips from Palma are simple to organise:

• Sóller and the vintage train. The historic Sóller train rattles through the mountains from Palma to the pretty town of Sóller, then a tram continues to the harbour. It is the single most scenic half-day trip on the island.
• Valldemossa and Deià. Two of the prettiest villages in the Tramuntana mountains, full of stone houses, art history, and terraced views down to the sea.
• Cap de Formentor. A spectacular drive north to the island’s wild northern tip and its lighthouse.

Where to stay in Palma de Mallorca: Best areas & Hotels

For a short trip, the old town is the obvious base. Staying near the cathedral, Mercat de l’Olivar, and Passeig del Born means you can cover most of this guide entirely on foot, which is the whole point of a Palma city break.

For genuine character, Casa Roca is a boutique hotel in Palma Old Town, a lovingly restored building in the heart of the Casco Histórico that carries 175 years of heritage alongside modern, design-led comfort. The location is hard to beat for a first visit: Plaça Major is around the corner, the Mercat de l’Olivar is five minutes on foot, and Palma Cathedral, the Arab Baths, and the shopping streets of Calle Jaume III are all an easy stroll. The Pere Antoni beach and the pretty port of Portixol are a short walk along the seafront, so you can sightsee, shop, and swim without ever needing a car.

Inside, the style is part Modernist sanctuary, part Art Deco glamour. Accommodation runs from City Suites with deep soaking tubs to Luxury Suites with floor-to-ceiling windows framing the old-town skyline, larger Retreat Suites, one and two-bedroom Residences with super-king en-suites and private terraces, and a three-bedroom Penthouse crowned by a sunny rooftop terrace. There is a spa, a rooftop, and even a secret speakeasy bar tucked inside, and the whole property can be booked for exclusive occupancy for weddings, milestone celebrations, or group retreats. Recent guests give it a perfect five-star rating, repeatedly singling out the design, the attention to detail, and the warmth of the service.

What really sets Casa Roca apart is its focus on Mallorcan food and wine. It is a dedicated wine hotel, with a collection of more than forty local labels you can pour by the glass using a personal Wine Pass and the hotel’s wine machines, perfectly matched with signature tapas. Guests can go deeper through a programme of experiences run from the in-house Tasting Room, including wine tastings led by fifth-generation island winemaker Tomeu Llabrés, an Olivar Market tour and Mallorcan cooking class, small-group gourmet food tours, and vermouth, gin, and coffee tastings. It is independently run, properly embedded in its neighbourhood, and has been featured by IB3, the BBC, and Diario de Mallorca.

When is the best time to visit Palma? A quick weather guide

Palma’s weather is kind for most of the year. May, June, September, and early October are the sweet spot: warm, bright, and far less crowded than peak summer, with sea temperatures still pleasant. July and August are hot and busy, ideal for a beach-first trip but less comfortable for sightseeing. Winters are mild and quiet, and late January brings the Sant Sebastià festival, when the whole city spills outdoors for street parties and bonfires. Whenever you come, pack for the sun and bring comfortable shoes for the old town’s cobbles.

How to get around Palma de Mallorca

Central Palma is best explored on foot, and the historic alleys can only really be seen that way. The EMT bus network is cheap and reliable for the airport, port, and beaches, and bike lanes run throughout the city, so renting a bike or e-bike is a fun way to reach the coast. You will rarely need a taxi within the centre, and a car is more of a hindrance than help in the old town, where parking is genuinely difficult.

For more European city break ideas, browse our destination guides.

Final tips for your first trip to Palma de Mallorca

A short break in Palma gives you a golden cathedral, an old town built for wandering, a market breakfast, a beach you walked to, and a long dinner in Santa Catalina. Add a third day for the Sóller train or a southern beach, and you have one of the most complete city breaks in the Mediterranean. Book restaurants ahead in summer, start your sightseeing early to beat the heat and the cruise crowds, and do not be surprised if you leave already planning a longer return trip.

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