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A culinary scene of its own

This entire adventure started with Heart’s Tavern in Kimberley (Ontario). It came recommended as a place to eat through the grapevine. This roadside tavern is a passion project of two restaurateurs, Teo Paul and Tyler Wilson (Union and Côte de Boeuf). A neon sign graces this cottage-style building, that casual atmosphere continues throughout into what is now two buildings connected with a narrow dining room. The menu is seasonal, focused on local produce, and as much as possible is done in-house. Pickled. Cured. Smoked. Just out there in the field, my eyes spot the smoker through the window. 

This is a small community. People know each other well and without hesitation share recommendations. In Thornbury, two restaurants, in particular, caught our eye: Fabbrica (from the McEwan Group) and Bruce Wine Bar. Fabbrica is an Italian restaurant located mere minutes from the Bruce Wine Bar. Fabbrica has a lovely heated patio and a rich selection of hearty meals. From muscles to pizza and pasta, there is a lot to choose from. Bruce Wine Bar, on the other hand, also works as a bottle shop, but in addition to their impressive collection of wine, there is a lovely minimal menu with filling snacks and deliciously dressed salads. 

A visit to Blue Mountain would not be complete without beers and oysters at Penny’s Motel & Apres. A small indoor dining area (primarily bar stools) is amplified by casual seating around an outdoor fire pit, a picnic table, and a sizable patio. Here you will find, in addition to the oysters and beer of course, a selection of small snacks, pizza, wine, and cocktails. 

Bonus: Stop by the Kimberley General Store, for fresh bread and Amish butter. 

Family-friendly cidery

While this region might not be at the top of the list when it comes to wineries and breweries it certainly has a lot to offer. Grey & Gold Cider is a sustainable, farm-based cidery and a community staple. With live music at sunset and other celebrations, this farm is a place to gather, mix, and mingle.

Adventurous cold-climate wines

Further into the hills are a handful of wineries. Georgian Hills Vineyards was our first stop. The visitors are invited to taste a selection of their cool climate wines at the indoor and outdoor tasting bars or by the fire pit. The views in each direction are sprawling greenery and vines, perfectly complementing the local wines.

Further up the hill is the Roost Wine Company. The scenic drive to the gate cannot prepare you enough for the view at the top of the hill. It feels like the highest point of the region (aside from the actual Blue Mountain that is) and offers a spectacular view of the rolling forestry and vineyards. In their own words, The Roos Winery is “dedicated to pushing the boundaries of cold climate wines on the fringes of Ontario’s winemaking territory”. On the menu, you will find interesting sparkling wines (think Pet Nat), some orange, and a selection of other interesting grapes like Marquette and Foch. 

A quaint stay

Penny’s Motel is a boutique roadside destination. Family project of John Belknap (co-owner of John and Sons Oyster House) and his family. The property is a showcase of local artisan talent and the classiest 70s throwback one can imagine. Each room has a mood of its own while the shared spaces are built to facilitate casual social interactions. There is plenty of sitting, a large fire pit with cozy blankets, a sundeck room, and even a small tin pool (open seasonally). The rooms themselves are a bit small but the shower is spacious, the shared space is a party, and the restaurant is a destination within itself.

Make it a long weekend with a few days up on the slopes (Blue Mountain) and a day out relaxing at the Scandinave Spa Blue Mountain. 

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Our brief weekend itinerary was built around 3 breweries and 2 distilleries all of which have made my journey home a few bottles of beer heavier. Yes, I shopped. Unlike the Ontario craft beer market Rochester brewers are not as driven by the hoppy trend, the ROC continuously experiments with recipes and selections brewing up some interesting flavours like Chocolate Vanilla Porters and Blueberry Ales.

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This trip was hosted by Visit Rochester, which did not review or approve the story.

Genesee Brew House: a large warehouse space transformed into a 9,200 square-foot featuring interactive exhibits in the main store area, a tasting room overlooking the on-site brewery, a large restaurant, and a fantastic rooftop patio with a view of High Falls.

Tip: you absolutely have to try the pretzels at the restaurant, words can’t describe those.

Beer favorites: Genesee Cream Ale and Scotch Ale from the Pilot Batch Series.

ROC Brewing: a much younger microbrewery located in the heart of downtown. The younger character of the brand and the modern architecture of the tasting room attract a similarly fun audience to their location. The beer selection is inspired by German recipes, the flavors are simple and rich with super fun names.

Beer favourites: The Ugly Sweater, an English old ale with a complex caramel malt bill

Rohrbach Beer Hall: Rochester’s original craft beer is located in a factory-style building near the city’s Public Market. This brewery is a little more spacious with an on-site restaurant and occasional live entertainment. The beer selection is also quite fun: Vanilla Porters, Scotch Ales, and seasonal locals like Red Wing Red Ale. There is also a new line of beers called Neoteric Series 1.0 with a small lineup of beers like Space Kitty IPA and Penelope Imperial Pilsner. All beers are freshly brewed, canned, and bottled on-site. If you come in for a pint or to re-fill your jar the beer comes directly from the well in which it was cultivated. The case for almost all breweries in Rochester.

Beer favourites: The Blueberry Ale – that subtle hint of blueberry is very refreshing!

Black Button Distilling: located next door to Rohrbach, Black Button is a smaller, calmer space. We got to tour the distillery with the founder and owner Jason Barrett. Jason was nice enough to briefly share the distillery’s story with us before encouraging me to try some overproof samples from the ‘work in progress’ jars. The story goes like this: Barrett’s family made buttons for four generations but Jason turned out to be colour-blind so the joke was that if he were to carry on the family business he’d have to make black buttons only. Realizing buttons were not his thing in more than one way Barrett went on to open a distillery. Black Button is now a staple in the Rochester craft spirits market.

While paying homage to the classic spirits Black Button keeps on reinventing its flavours, pointing out that no one wants to “be smacked in the face with a Christmas tree”. Their Citrus Forward Gin, for example, is built on subtle notes of juniper with orange zest and has been named “The official gin of summer” by the American Craft Spirits Association. The barrels from the liquors get passed on to other uses such as aging Maple Syrup.

Favourites: Bespoke Bourbon Cream and the previously mentioned Citrus Forward Gin.

Apple Country Spirits (ACS): a half-an-hour drive out of the city into the countryside Apple Country is a farm distillery that produces gluten-free spirits and ciders. The apples (and other fruits) are grown nearby, pressed, fermented, and bottled on-site. All ciders are made with real fruit juice, no artificial substitutes, which makes for crisp and refreshing flavours. Even the vodkas are infused with real fruit flavour, the Pear Vodka for example is dangerously tasty and even smells like fresh fruit.

Favourites: Pear Vodka, Sour Cherry Cordial, and Original Rootstock Cider (though all ciders are pretty fantastic).

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For more information and to plan your own road trip visit Rochester Craft Beverage Trail.

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