All images courtesy of the distillery.

The origins of Macaloney’s Island Distillery: Scottish inspiration meets Canadian terroir

Years ago, Graeme Macaloney was quietly laying the seeds of his future success with a humble summer job bottling the “water of life”, which fueled his lifelong fascination with whisky. Years later, his passion, combined with credibility and expertise, helped those seeds bloom into a legitimate business. Joining the team were veteran Scottish master distiller Mike Nicolson and maturation expert Dr. Jim Swan, who together fused centuries-old Scottish traditions with Canada’s Pacific Coast ingredients and climate, earning a devoted following among connoisseurs and curious travellers alike.

Thanks to a maritime climate that mirrors Scotland’s whisky-making environments, Victoria proved to be an ideal home base. The region’s clean island water, fresh, coastal air, and temperate oceanic climate all contribute to the spirits’ distinct flavour and character. Using Canadian barley and copper pot stills from Scotland’s renowned Forsyth’s distillery, they got to work building a facility that would produce legitimately authentic single malt whisky with a uniquely Canadian identity. 

Award-Winning Canadian single malt whisky

In the grand scheme of the whisky world, Macaloney’s is a young pup. But nobody can deny that the distillery’s national and international success has been swift and impressive, proving that Scottish technique and Canadian ingredients were paying off. 

Among Macaloney’s standouts internationally are the double gold-winning An Aba, a lighted peated sherried whisky, An Loy, a double-distilled, single malt whisky, and triple-distilled Kildara, which won World’s Best Pot Still Whisky in 2023. Macaloney’s Sherry Bomb Whisky, Cath-Nah-Aven, won gold in 2023’s edition of the World Whiskies Awards. Nationally, its St Mallie Portugues Red Wine Single Cask, Peat Project Red Wine Cask Whisky, and Peat Project Bourbon Cask Whisky took home Best Canadian Single Cask and Single Malt in 2020, 2022, and 2025, respectively. Its Killeigh Triple Distilled Whisky won Best Canadian Pot Still in 2022, while its Kirkinriola Portuguese Red Wine Single Cask won the same award in 2024. Its Peated Kildara, Triple Distilled Lightly Peated Whisky took home top prize in the same category in 2025. 

Finally, Macaloney’s Peat Project Moscatel Cask Whisky was awarded 2025’s Canadian Whisky of the Year. Made with local BC barley, lightly smoked with peat, and aged in a Portuguese Moscatel cask, it offers notes of coastal pine, juicy pineapple, and chocolate-orange. On a wider scale, this win was integral as it competed against nearly 200 others in blind tastings, proving that Canadian single malts could rival even the most established and respected names in the world. 

Why Macaloney’s whisky has captured global attention

Let’s not overlook the fact that whisky tourism has exploded, and discerning visitors are eager to include a spirit tour on their itinerary. Fundamentally, the success of Macaloney’s can be traced to a deliberate combination of authenticity, craftsmanship, and a deep sense of place. Vancouver Island’s natural environment, when combined with Canadian barley, fresh water, and a cool ocean breeze, results in a series of character-rich spirits. Furthermore, its reliance on copper potstill distillation, long fermentation periods and careful cask selection is reminiscent of Scotland’s storied whisky houses. 

The future of Macaloney’s Island Distillery & Canadian whisky

Along with an expansive three-season patio in the works, Macaloney’s also plans to add more tours. tasting programs and collaborative events in the coming years to accommodate a growing demand.  Along with tasting as many spirits as you like, Macaloney’s signature experiences will include a Grain-to-Glass tour, taking guests behind the scenes – from the grist mill and warehouse, to the pot stills and the maturation room – with the option to even smoke peat upon request. 

For decades, the conversation about single malt whisky centred mainly on Scotland. Macaloney’s is proof that new regions, including Vancouver Island, can create exceptional whisky. And while Macaloney’s has racked up a list of impressive awards, it’s important to keep in mind that thousands of whisky barrels are still maturing, each representing future, potentially award-winning releases, further elevating the brand’s reputation. Currently, Macaloney’s is the 3rd most-awarded distillery in the world and the most-awarded craft distillery in Canada. Conclusion: Graeme and his team are just getting started! 

Sidebar – don’t skip the beer!

Named after a poem by Robbie Burns, Twa Dogs Brewery operates inside Macaloney’s, pouring a rotating lineup of craft brews brewed on site using high-quality ingredients. Behind-the-scenes tours offer guests a chance to sample various strains of malted and unmalted barley while enjoying a few beer and whisky tastings along the way. Macaloney’s brewery arm adds another dimension to the visitor experience, all in a relaxed, speakeasy-style setting that feels upscale yet welcoming, without the pretentious atmosphere or hefty price tag. Be it a pint or a dram, Macaloney’s delivers a memorable experience, with a touch of West Coast swagger. 

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For decades, the family’s distilling narrative was a dormant heritage, a story whose middle chapters were missing. While their brewing history was public record, the physical legacy of their spirit-making remained elusive. The discovery at 43 Arthur St. South—formerly Allan’s Mill—added a layer of intrigue to the tale. In 2015, during a walkthrough of the site for potential renovation, the family found hidden tanks and a secret piping system concealed within a false basement. While these likely belonged to a separate, unnamed operation, the site’s proximity to the railway lines made it a perfect hub for the type of “midnight runs” that favoured the likes of Al Capone. This revelation, proving the site was a clandestine nexus for illicit spirits, prompted the family to scrap plans for a modern build on the highway, choosing instead to restore this limestone relic and finally give the Spring Mill name a permanent home in Guelph.

John Sleeman speaking on a tour of Spring Mill Distillery. Image by Kateryna Topol.

The forbidden legacy:
“The ink of an old recipe book”

The Sleeman lineage is defined by a rebellious streak stretching back to the late 1700s. The family’s predecessors were privateers in Cornwall, England—maritime adventurers who operated with the edge of a pirate but the legal veneer of a government commission. When privateering was no longer viable, they transitioned into the pub trade. One descendant, John H. Sleeman, brought this defiant spirit to Canada, establishing a brewery in 1834 and the original Spring Mill Distillery in 1836.

While the 1836 distillery was a separate enterprise, the family has now brought that name to the restored Allan’s Mill building. By the 1850s, industrial pollution had forced the original distilling operations to cease. The family’s penchant for the forbidden resurfaced during Prohibition, leading to a notorious smuggling operation that made Sleeman beer a staple in Chicago’s underground. The consequences were severe; in 1933, the family was officially stripped of their brewing license for 50 years.

A central artefact in this comeback is a weathered family recipe book, held by an aunt during the 1933 crackdown and preserved for a future generation. “We tell lots of stories there,” Cooper Sleeman says of the family’s history, noting that the book served as the map for his father, John Sleeman, to reclaim the family business in 1988, notably for their famous cream ale. While the book focuses on beer, it serves as the philosophical map for John Sleeman & Sons’ current commitment to quality.

The alchemy of copper:
“If you don’t ask, you don’t get”

To honour this legacy, the family turned to Richard Forsyth of Scotland, the world’s premier still maker. The family spent eighteen months convincing him that Spring Mill was a worthy home for his craft. Copper is a sacrificial metal, essential for scrubbing harsh sulfurs from the liquid during the boil. In the Spring Mill stillroom, these Scottish stills work in tandem with local Ontario grain to produce a spirit of sophisticated smoothness. Cooper believes in the power of persistence, citing the family motto passed down from his father: “If you don’t ask, you don’t get”. It is this mindset that secured the world-class equipment now sitting in the Ward.

A sibling’s labour:
Forging the Ontario oak narrative

If the stills are the heart, the cooperage is the hand. Quinn Sleeman, younger brother to Cooper, has taken on the apprenticeship of a dying art, focusing on the rare use of Canadian white oak barrels, seasoned in the rain and snow for eighteen months for select premium releases. Quinn’s barrels are reserved for the Cooper’s Rye—a name that serves as a playful double-entendre for both the craft and the family name. The labour is intensive, a manual process of assembly that demands total precision. Cooper views this side of the business as a lesson in patience, and Quinn’s first batch was a testament to that endurance. Having mastered the trade, Quinn’s work now represents the literal bottling of the Ontario landscape.

The modern steward:
Adapting to the surge

Today, Cooper Sleeman acts as the bridge between the privateer mythology of the 1700s and the modern market. He is attentive to the changing habits of the consumer, particularly the meteoric rise of Ready-To-Drink (RTD) options and the growing demand for zero-alcohol beverages. Spring Mill’s most popular RTD—a Ginger Lime Mule—was born from a simple request by his mother for a high-quality “mule in a can”. Beyond traditional spirits, the distillery is identifying the “all the rage” trend of non-alcoholic alternatives, ensuring they remain agile by leveraging the wider Sleeman network. “We have lots and lots and lots of whiskey that we put down,” Cooper says, but the modern portfolio must meet the demand for versatility alongside that traditional heritage.

Writer Nupur Singh on a tour of Spring Mill Distillery. Image by Kateryna Topol.

The lingering spirit:
A future in the making

As John Sleeman & Sons moves through 2026, the momentum is tangible. Their wine-cask-aged single malt recently took top honours at the National Whisky Awards, winning best single cask in Canada—a win that validates their patient approach. As Cooper notes, “whiskey ages with the seasons,” and this evolution informs their upcoming high-profile launches, including an Irish-inspired whiskey for St. Patrick’s Day. This agility is backed by a formidable engine; since 1988, the company has grown into Canada’s third-largest brewer. By managing a high-contrast portfolio—from the artisanal depths of Unibroue to the global reach of Sapporo—the family remains hyper-tuned to the market, using their diverse fleet to stay ahead of the next big thing.

Today, the history of Spring Mill Distillery is a tactile experience rather than a static archive. The distillery invites people to step inside the original walls for guided tours, where visitors can witness the labour of the stills and the precision of the cooperage firsthand. Beyond the technical craft, it has become a cornerstone of the Ward’s social fabric. Guests can linger at the onsite pub to sample the “Cooper’s Rye” or enjoy a “Fresh Ginger Lime Mule”. By opening their doors, the family isn’t just reclaiming a name, they have created a space where the community can sit down and raise a glass with a legacy that refused to stay erased.

The Ward Bar at Spring Mill Distillery, open Tuesday through Sunday. Image by Kateryna Topol.

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New Brunswick Distillery is located in the small town of Bathurst, New Brunswick. The business is a passion project of Katherine Lanteigne and her husband, Michael (Mihai) Petrovici, fueled by a generational history in spirit making. With just over a year in production, the distillery has already received a Silver award for Best Distillery in NB by Excellence NB, People’s Choice Award (2025), and the Vodka Lemonade received the “Foodie’s Choice Award” by Food & Beverage Atlantic (2025).

Kateryna Topol: When did New Brunswick Distillery open? 

Katherine Lanteigne: We opened in July 2024. We are still very, very new, and as you could see at the NB Spirits Festival, we only had two gins because when we registered a few months ago, we only had those two products at the liquor store [the festival requires pre-approval of all showcased spirits]. But now we have more, including vodka, rum, and ready-to-drink beverages (RTD), so we are slowly but surely making our way into the market. 

It was an honour to be at the Spirits Festival, because there were only two companies from New Brunswick – First Light Distillery and us – and it is a whisky-focused festival, so making the cut was an honour. A few of our RTD products have put us on the map because they have been performing well in stores, which helped us catch the attention of the ANBL (The New Brunswick Liquor Corporation).

KT: Which is great support, I’m sure. As far as the concept for the distillery, your website mentions generations of spirit-making history, tell me about that

KL: My husband, Michael Petrovici, is from Eastern Europe, from Romania, and making spirits is deeply rooted in their traditions. It is still legal in Romania to make your own alcohol, so it’s very common for people to have a still in their garage or backyard. The earth in Romania is so fertile, it is insane. You walk on the streets, and there are apricot trees, blackberries growing in ditches, and hops climbing fences along the road. Here we are working hard to grow hops, and there they are basically a weed. So they have access to all this fruit so many of them make brandy. 

Michael’s parents have an orchard and since he was little, he was making alcohol with his father, grandfather, and uncles. And that’s still the case now, every time we go there, it’s like “batch 2025” there, it’s called Țuică, it’s plum brandy, a national alcoholic beverage of Romania, but you can make it with any fruit. This year, his family made apple brandy. 

We met here, our distillery is on Main Street, and we do have a few other businesses here: Kaffeine Espresso Bar and Au Bootlegger Pub, just beside the distillery. Michael was always saying it would be nice to create something, some products and spirits. Which was also very tactical for our pub. Working with a distiller, Chris Bartkow, we started with what most distilleries start with: vodka, followed by gin, because those two don’t need ageing. We now have two gins, including a London Dry gin called Leap Day London Dry, which we tested on Leap Day before we opened; it was a very special day. That was followed by vodka and the Lemon Lavender Gin, which we had at the Spirits Festival.

Left: Distiller Chris Bartkow; image by La Cave Media. Katherine Lanteigne at the Food & Beverage Atlantic awards.

KT: And those two go hand-in-hand because you need vodka to make the gin, right?

KL: Yes, exactly! And then we started making the RTD products, which I think is what gained us all the attention. Our Vodka Lemonade launched in April, and in the summer, it surpassed Mike’s Hard Lemonade and Smirnoff Iced in sales, which is when ANBL noticed us.

KT: Very cool! I don’t see them on your website, though …

KL: No, because we aren’t selling them online, we are having a hard time keeping up with the demand. 

KT: So it’s kind of like you closed a loop between your properties by opening a distillery, and you make beer as well? 

KL: We do make beer, but it’s mostly for our bar. There is so much competition in beer, so spirits are the main focus. We actually just launched Vodka Carbanerry, made with local cranberries, and it’s been very popular. 

KT: So you use a lot of local ingredients?

KL: We try to source as locally as possible, but things like lemons, you can’t get those here. We recently launched a new gin, called Arboré Gin, which uses all local ingredients. I go into the Acadian Forest with my family to forage throughout the year. It’s a very local gin which uses things like spruce tips, cedar bark, winter greens, and so on. Our first batch was only 69 bottles, which we sold in a week and a half. For this gin, it takes us a full year to gather all the ingredients because they are not available year-round. We’re in the middle of bottling the latest batch now, should be about 500 bottles this time.

KT: Very cool! What are some of your other sustainability initiatives?

KL: We have a few. Right now, all of the leftover stillage from production we send to local farmers, for example. We are also looking at creative ways to use the leftover botanicals from the gin, aiming to produce as little waste as possible.

All branding for the distillery is done by a local designer, Zoé Arseneau from Miette Design. Images by La Cave Media.

KT: Being located in the heart of Bathurst, you probably don’t have a lot of room to grow, how big is your production?

KL: We have one still, and to be honest, we are already feeling like we’re running out of space. It’s a three-story building, but everything happens on the main floor. There is also a tasting room there, so not a lot of room for production. For example, if we’re shipping 13 pallets of RTDs, we don’t actually have floorspace to store them, so we have to get creative. 

KT: So no immediate plans for expansion?

KL: Not right now, we don’t want to grow too fast, we need to look at trends and think through it all strategically to avoid being a one-hit-wonder.

KT: Totally makes sense. And people can visit the distillery?

KL: Yes, we have a tasting room, we do tours, and the space is available for event rentals as well. We are looking at hosting bigger tour groups in Bathurst, so working on fine-tuning those in the next few months. We will also soon have workshops, like a workshop on making your own gin – we have a six-station area upstairs, called the gin school, it’s already gathering quite a bit of attention because of the setup. 

Images by La Cave Media.

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It is also important to point out that you don’t have to be a whisky connoisseur to attend and enjoy these festivities. It is open to everyone, even children. Though at least an interest in whisky is recommended, of course.  

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What is Fèis Ìle and where is Islay?

Hosted annually during the last week of May, Fèis Ìle is an island-wide festival celebrating whisky and Islay culture. The festival and the spirit of Islay are much intertwined. The island’s peaty terroir lends itself to unique whiskies, which have been a fixture here since 1779 (Bowmore).

Fèis Ìle has risen to international renown, attracting tourists and whisky lovers from around the globe. The locals often relish in sharing how the island’s population (typically 3,000) can triple during the festival. As an attendee, you are encouraged to explore the island, meet the locals, dance, drink, and be merry. 

For the festival’s 10-day span, each distillery takes a turn hosting, usually between 10 AM and 6 PM. Common features include music, local food, and whisky education. Each distillery day is unique, a reflection of its history and the distillery’s character. Lagavulin, with its 200-year-old site and breathtaking views of the Southern Islay shores, hosts walking tours and cellar tastings of venerable whiskies. Bruichladdich, on the other hand, is the day every islander looks forward to most: a giant party with a full-fledged concert, multiple drink tents, and a dozen food vendors, all hosted in the distillery’s massive central courtyard.

Another major Festival draw: the coveted limited edition special releases. Each distillery produces a 3,000-6,000-bottle run for Fèis Ìle that can only be purchased there directly from distilleries and a small number of retailers on Islay. The famed distilleries have lineups that stretch across the street with people ready to purchase these one-of-a-kind liquids. You do get to taste these at the events, so if you find a bottle you are fond of, get two: one to drink, and one to store.

There are a few unspoken rules to participation in Fèis Ìle, but they are easy to follow:

1. Be nice: meet locals, meet visitors, get to know people, and make friends. The people make the festival.
2. Don’t just focus on the whisky: while it is commonly referred to as the world’s biggest whisky festival Fèis Ìle is much more than that. It is a celebration of Islay and an equally big event for the locals. So eat the food, dance to the music, and see the island.
3. Have a great time. That’s all.

All kinds of booking notes

Planning for Fèis Ìle is a dance of research and anticipation. You must match your desired days to available accommodation stays. But that’s not all, you must also match those with the ferry schedule. I understand it might be overwhelming, but don’t forget – you are travelling to rural Scotland! Also, it will all be worth it.

1. Booking accommodations

These get reserved well ahead of time, often years in advance – yes Fèis Ìle is a big deal. It is also a small island, and the number of people here during the festival week could triple, so you see the dilemma. When we travelled, we booked very late and, quite frankly, got lucky. Not all 9 days might be available in the same spot. And to be honest, you might not want to stay for all 9 days, that’s just mental. The program doesn’t get released until much closer to the festival week, so your trip duration and dates will, more than likely, be based on the accommodations available

You must stay on Islay, so pay attention to where the location of the hotel is if you are using a booking site (ie, Expedia, TripAdvisor, Booking). There is also a high chance you might see nothing available on these websites, but don’t panic. A nearly full list of island accommodations can be found on islayinfo.com. Few listings will have an online calendar, and more likely, you will need to email a handful of places to see if they still have open dates.

Accomodations include a few hotels, a few Inns and B&Bs, and a selection of self-catering (vacation) rentals. Among high-end hotels are the recently opened Ardbeg House (luxury), Another Place, The Machrie (Expedia) and Islay House (TripAdvisor), both of which have a golf course, as well as The Bidgend Hotel. Bowmore Hotel is a staple because of the pub where locals gather nightly, the rooms are maximised for sleeping space with bunk beds. The Lochside Hotel (Bowmore) also has an on-site restaurant and a more classic room layout (TripAdvisor).

If all fails, there is camping. People camp for the full duration of the festival and often move their tents along with the daily programming. Too far to hike to Lagavulin? No bother, camp outside of the distillery. More info on camping can be found here. 

2. Booking travel

Flight + Car 

There is an airport on Islay that you can fly to from Glasgow (Loganair), but it is a rather infrequent weekly flight and a fairly small plane. There are also neighbouring airports in Colonsay and Oban (Hebridean Air Services), with similar limitations. The easiest option is to fly or take a train to a larger city (Glasgow, Edinburgh) and rent a car from there. We landed in London, took the train to Glasgow, and drove from there. You can even rent a car and leave it in another city to mix up your trip.

Tip: Get a local SIM card at the airport on arrival to the UK or purchase an eSIM plan ahead of time (learn about eSIMs).

Ferry to Islay

Islay is an island, and the only way (other than the tiny plane, of course) to get there is by sea. The ferry is operated by Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac), and they share the summer schedule in advance, so you can book it well ahead of time as well. CalMac also recommends you pay attention to the status updates, which you can sign up for by text or see in the CalMac app. The most popular departure point from the mainland is Kennacraig on West Loch Tarbert, which lands at Port Ellen or Port Askaig. If you rent a car, it goes on the ferry, of course. 

Quick tip: You will not have access to the car for the duration of the ferry journey, so take all you need with you right away.

The ferry journey is about 2 hours. The boat is quite impressive. Upon entry, you will see a large chandelier and a mini-casino – yeah, I know! On the lower level is also a shop and a few booths to relax in. A grand staircase will take you to the main deck. Up there are a lot of sitting areas and a cafe with pretty good food, I must admit. But you know, bring your snacks if you can, and a game or a book to kill time with. The ferry has an outdoor deck (two levels), and it does get quite windy up there. Keep an eye out for the water because you might spot some whales. See pricing here. 

Important notes:

• Check-in is 30 minutes prior to departure for vehicles and 10 minutes for foot passengers
• Make a reservation ahead of time, they do sell out
• If anything happens, call them: 0800 066 5000 (we had to)

3. Booking events 

You do not need tickets to attend Fèis Ìle, most distillery days are open. But you do need tickets for special events. Throughout the week, there are many events, some run by distilleries and Fèis Ìle officials. Distillery events will be released directly by them, so follow them for updates. Official festival event tickets are released at the beginning of January/February (could be later) and dropped on various dates over the next couple of months. I strongly recommend you sign up for the festival newsletter and follow them on social media so you don’t miss any notifications.

Things to keep in mind:

• There is a time difference between Scotland and North America, so the newsletter will arrive at unusual times. This can also be attributed to the fact that the entire thing is organised by one small committee, really mostly one guy.
• Their website is not super mobile-friendly, you might have issues with your credit card type or browser. So if any issues occur, try a different browser, try a different card, try a different device, need be, try someone else’s phone. We had to do all of the above.
• The tickets sell out fast, if you see one, stop whatever you’re doing and buy it. I mean it. The festival’s Instagram or newsletter would often mention when tickets go on sale, so I would set an alarm and watch my inbox in anticipation. 

More on the Fèis Ìle events

Each day is dedicated to a single distillery that will host the celebrations in the manner they choose. The festival releases the program on the website, and some events might be added quite late in the season. There is always a public opening event with performances from local dance troupes, bands, and pied pipers. The pied pipers appear around villages throughout the week, unannounced as well, which I loved. Do visit the website frequently as more details are added often, and it might include those rather important shuttle and ticket notes. 

Other distilleries are open during the week, too, so it can be a good opportunity to pop in somewhere you might not get a chance to visit another day. Additionally, some years there are off-distillery events celebrating Islay life and ingenuity in other ways. Lagavulin always hosts on day two (opening the event) while Ardbeg tends to close.

There are nine active distilleries on Islay and a number of “lost” distilleries, no longer active, but remnants of them are still present and historically significant. The distilleries are spread across the island, but three of them are located nearly side by side: Ardbeg, Lagavulin, and Laphroaig are all within walking distance from Port Ellen. 

Lagavulin Distillery

Lagavulin always opens the festival, and this was hands down our favourite event. In addition to the public open house, they host a wide array of special activities. Last year, for example, our morning started with a rather special cellar tasting led by Ian McArthur.

McArthur retired a few years ago but had worked at the distillery warehouse for nearly 50 years prior to his departure. A group of us gathered in a cellar around five barrels, which we got to taste over friendly banter. This being my first time on Islay intrigued Ian, so he invited me up to pipe out a 17-year-old sherry cask straight from the barrel. The entire video is here if you want to see me struggle.

One of the other tours we did at ‘Laga’ involved a little stroll around the property to a fantastic view of the distillery in its full glory. Our guides, Ervin Trykowski (Global Single Malt Whisky Ambassador, Diageo) and Ewan Gunn (Senior Global Brand Ambassador, Diageo), shared stories about the village and whisky while offering scenic samples on the go.

Bruichladdich Distillery

From the day we descended on Islay, nearly everyone brought up the Bruichladdich day. This re-imagined Victorian distillery produces wonderful classic whisky packaged in turquoise bottles with heavy modern lettering – a departure from tradition.

For their distillery day, Bruichladdich hosts a festival called Rock’Ndall. People lined up on a hill early in the morning, and most of them stayed till the end despite the rain. This distillery day is a full-fledged music festival with plenty of food and drinks to go around. Employees were also offering free tours on the hour. 

Caol Ila Distillery 

Caol Ila Day in 2022 took place in a city square because they were still working on finishing up the new property. If you visit this year you are certainly in for a special treat because this will be their first ever Fèis Ìle in the new space. Personally, I am quite curious about all the events that will unfold at Caol Ila this time around. 

The event itself is another fun occurrence. There were multiple food vendors, a craft market, a Caol Ila cocktail bar, and a few special event spaces. My favourite event on this day was hosted by the same dynamic duo as the Lagavulin walk. Ervin and Ewan hosted us for a relaxing tasting titled “Scotch and Vinyl” during which a small group of people nestled in beanbag chairs and chilled out to classic records matched to classic releases. 

Where to eat

There are a few restaurants, pubs, and cafes. Some of them require reservations, and you guessed it — they also book up fast. Many of them don’t rely on the internet, so you will need to call to see if and when they might have an opening. Plan ahead if you like variety. Naturally, each distillery day will have plenty of food vendors, and nearly every one of them will have fresh oysters – must try!

In Bowmore, you can eat at the Bowmore Hotel Restaurant. The food is traditional pub snacks and local fresh seafood. On night one, I tried the scallops, which here on Islay always come with the roe (orange tail), which was a bit odd (new) at first, but after a few bites, delicious. The Bowmore Hotel pub is also a good spot to try a wide range of rare whiskies. 

Around the corner is a restaurant called Peatzeria, a lovely spot with a heated patio and a view of the sea. Their menu is packed with some baked pizza options, pasta, and a few other plates. On a more upscale end, there is the Lochside Hotel & Restaurant serving up Scottish breakfasts and elevated Islay scallops. And a short drive will take you to a tiny spot called the Munchie Box with sandwiches and fish to go

Kilchoman Distillery Cafe has some hearty soups and tasty sandwiches. Make sure to try the famous Cullen Skink soup (fish). The cafe at Ardbeg, called The Old Kiln, is a fun spot to sit back and enjoy a home-baked pie. You can also hang out in their yard, enjoying snacks from the Ardstream Trailer (which opens in April). 

In Port Ellen, there is  SeaSalt Bistro, known for its fresh seafood. I would recommend trying one of the larger sharing seafood plates, and if you aren’t able to dine in, definitely try the takeaway. No. 1 Charlotte Street B&B nearby has a fun pub. Cosy atmosphere, hearty sandwiches on the menu, and a dartboard at the back – a rather common type of entertainment on Islay. If we stayed in Port Ellen, this would’ve been our local for sure. 

Other notable mentions on my list are Lochindaal Seafood Kitchen, Port Mor Community Cafe, The Ardview Inn, The Islay Whisky Bar in the Ballygrant Inn, and Old Port Bar in the Port Askaig Hotel.

Sightseeing & Exploring 

If you have a car, drive it down every road on the island, especially those that lead to the beach. Honestly, there aren’t that many, and in the course of a week, one way or another, you will see them all. As expected, there are many sheep out and about – they will stare back. And if you are lucky enough, you will also see many coos (Scottish Cows), which I was absolutely obsessed with.

Scenic beaches 

Islay boasts 130 miles of sea coastline, so there are many beaches you can enjoy even in gloomy weather. Machir Bay is a smaller beach on the Western coast of the island and close to Kilchoman; you could easily pop in there before or after your distillery visit. Saligo Bay Beach is all beautiful dunes and dreamy sand with rocky formations arching along the coast. One of the other must-visit locations is Sanaigmore Beach, a hidden beach at Port Ghille Greamhair. See the full list of beaches here on islayinfo.com. 

Note: Only a few beaches are safe for swimming: Laggan Bay, Loch Gruinart, and Loch Indaal.

Historic monuments

There aren’t that many, but those that do exist are worth a visit. The American Monument, for example, is an oval-shaped tower built in the mid-1800s. Better locally known as “The Oa,” the monument is a memorial to all the soldiers who lost their lives in Islay in World War I. Another memorial is the Kilchoman Cross and churchyard of the Old Parish Church, which has been there since the 13th century. And then there is the Carraig Fhada Lighthouse in Kilnaughton Bay. It’s a square-shaped, 2-part lighthouse nestled at the end of a rocky passage. You get a wonderful view of it immediately from the parking lot, but do take the stroll to the front steps. 

Carraig Fhada Lighthouse in the background.

Walks & Hikes

There are many trails, but some locals highly recommend RSPB Loch Gruinart. It is a protected wildlife reserve hosting a lush range of birds, insects, hen harriers, and otters, to name a few. The visitor’s centre does have a map of all the different walks you can take. Some are shaded by trees, others are wide open fields. The greenery and flowers are all absolutely stunning, creating rather magical forest passages in some spots.

 If you are spending time in Bowmore, there is a cute boardwalk near the distillery and a rocky beach. Bring your takeout and some whisky for a picnic; no reservations are needed.

See all possible walking trails on Islay here on Walk Highlands.

Above and below images are from the walk at the RSPB Loch Gruinart.

What to pack & How to dress

Generally speaking, nothing fancy. Bring all your rain and wet-weather essentials – rain boots, raincoats, etc. Many events take place outdoors, so comfortable layers are essential. And so are the comfortable shoes, and I mean really, no place for heels here. The weather is mostly overcast and a little wet, but miracles do happen. Pack an umbrella. You can still be cute, obviously, but warmth and comfort are key. Being whisky-drunk while cold is not a fun vibe. During our visit in 2022, the sun decided to bless Islay, to everyone’s surprise. The first distillery day was so unseasonably sunny that many people got a sunburn, which they had to rock for the rest of the week. Yes, it was funny. Yes, pack a sunblock next to that umbrella.

Herschel classic rain jacket was definitely my most popular piece of clothing this trip.

Getting around Islay

If you have a car, it will be your primary mode of transportation, naturally. Most of the roads are single lanes with specific rules for how to pass other vehicles, using a “passing place”. There is a brochure on the topic at the ferry terminal; make sure to grab it. A common courtesy is to wave at a passing car. Just a simple raise of a palm would suffice. It is rude not to, so wave .

But let’s be honest, we are coming here to drink scotch, so driving might not always be an option. And it is worth mentioning that for the duration of the festival, there are a lot more police on the island, shipped in from across Scotland. So here are some other options:

• Car hire: They’ll drive you around wherever you want to go. There are two companies:  Creswell Cars Ltd and Islay Car Hire 
• Taxi: There are a few, but they are sparse and also need to be booked ahead of time. The list of taxis is at the end of this section.
• Festival shuttle: on occasion, Fèis Ìle does organise shuttle buses from popular locations to special events, but I will be honest, we had a hard time figuring out when and where those are. Some are posted on the website, like the “final flag” bus, but those sell out quickly. 
• Biking: If you are brave and not far from your destination, you can rent a bike from Islay Cycles in Port Ellen or Islay Bike Hire in Bowmore.
• Walking: Can honestly be a good option if you are staying close to the distillery. Port Ellen, for example, is within walking distance of three!
• Transit: There are two bus routes on the island. However, they only operate from 7 AM to 6 PM. See the timetable here.
• Make friends and carpool: Is also an option, after all, you are here for a very social event.

* * *

And that is all, folks. Enjoy your Islay adventures, be safe, and have a great time!

I absolutely loved all the greenery and wildflowers on the island. So peaceful and beautiful.

Carraig Fhada Lighthouse, an aerial view from a low altitude.
The windy and cold temperatures make it hard to operate a drone on the island.

Islay taxi master list

The post The ultimate guide to Fèis Ìle, The Islay festival of whisky & music appeared first on Paths to Travel.

Tequila is often referred to as Pueblo Mágico, the magical town. The town is quite small with beautiful, colourful architecture, casual terraces and restaurants, and many small vendors selling souvenirs. Even if you are not a tequila connoisseur, a visit to a Tequila is a great overnight alternative in Jalisco because agave culture (and therefore tequila) is considered a part of Mexico’s national identity. Here are a few ideas on how to spend 24 hours in Tequila.

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A couple of quick tips:

• Bring local cash, quite a few family-operated businesses here might not take credit cards and generally speaking using local money is better for the economy. 
• Stay connected with an eSIM like AirAlo (more on that here).
• Pack comfortable walking shoes and light, breathable clothing with some layers in case the weather cools down for the evening. 

The images below and above are from Casa Salles Hotel Boutique

Getting to Tequila from Guadalajara

The town of Tequila is located just a bit over an hour from Guadalajara. If you are already renting a car this is a beautiful drive, the closer to the town you get the larger and the more beautiful the agave fields get. We avoided renting a vehicle on this trip and took an Uber, which cost about $70 CAD. There is public transit available which will cost much less but, will increase your travel time to about 3 hours with two transfers.  

Check in at the Casa Salles Hotel Boutique

Casa Salles Hotel Boutique is located in the heart of Tequila and is a hotel adjacent to El Tequileño distillery. The hotel is a clean and modern, luxury retreat. There are 25 guest rooms many of which have balconies looking out into the farm fields. The rooms are spacious and comfortable with all the necessary amenities and a lot of storage space. The property also has a full-service restaurant, cocktail bar, an outdoor pool, and a spa. 

The interior spaces are thoughtfully decorated and generously air-conditioned. The exterior yard is a lovely garden with large trees, plants, and flower beds creating shade around the pool and dining areas. It is worth noting that Tequila is generally a safe town and very walkable but if peace of mind is needed Casa Salles is a gated property with 24/7 security at the gate. 

Book directly on casasalles.com or through your favourite partner: Booking.com | Expedia | TripAdvisor

Begin with a hearty lunch 

Drop your luggage off at the front desk and have lunch at Mango Cocina de Origen at the hotel. Your dining location choice is the interior lounge or the outdoor terrace. The restaurant has a fairly extensive menu highlighting Mexican classics and regional specialities. My eyes were drawn to the chilaquiles with eggs to line my stomach before the tequila tasting.

Tour and tasting at the El Tequileño distillery 

Reservations are strongly recommended. You can choose to do tasting only or tour and tasting. Since you are already in Tequila, tour and tasting is the recommended route. Your guide will meet you in the hotel lobby and take you through the El Tequileño distillery exposing the inner workings of the tequila-making process. You will see the different states of agave plants (green, trimmed, toasted), walk the distilling facility and witness how this magical liquid comes to life (and it is, alive), and then end the tour in the tasting room. The tasting is also guided by a local expert who will talk you through the tasting best practices and how to tell the different tequilas apart.

A few fun facts about tequila:

• How is tequila made? In a nutshell, Tequila is made using agave plants, the core of which is called piña. This bit is roasted and juice is extracted from it. That juice is then fermented in barrels with yeast. The next steps of course are distillation, aging, and bottling.
• The best tequila is made with 100% blue agave, the label will indicate the % of agave used. It is more pleasant to drink (even sip) and doesn’t give you violent hangovers like blended “tequilas” might.
• There are 5 types of tequila: Reposado, European or American-made barrel aged for up to a year; Joven, less common and includes aged and unaged tequila; Blanco, also known as Silver tequila, made with blue Weber agave grown in Jalisco, which is where you are for this trip; Añejo aged in American or European barrels for at least a year and Extra Añejo, which must be aged for at least 3 years, this ageing process creates more complex, rich flavours and golden colour, both of these types are great for sipping.

Walk around & Dine in the town centre

Unpack in the room, change for dinner and stroll through this historic town on foot. Wander into the small shops, take in all the colourful houses, take a peek inside the church, and have ice cream in the public square. 

For dinner, there are a few options. La Antigua Casona, for example, is an elevated restaurant concept located in Solar de las Animas hotel. There is a scenic terrace and a large beautiful courtyard. We opted for Fonda La Martina, a small family-owned traditional restaurant across the street. The service is great, the food is delicious, and something you will likely not find in other places. Their crispy taquitos, for example, are served in a cool broth, a welcome treat in the hot heat.

Post-dinner drinks

There is a famous local tequila cocktail called Batanga, quite ingenious in its simplicity: tequila, lime juice, Coca-Cola, and a salt rim. The drink was invented by La Capilla owner Javier Delgado Corona in 1961 so La Capilla is where you got to enjoy the said drink. This casual, dusty bar is an institution with a row of awards nested on a tall shelf, covered in dust. People hang out, read, mingle, and play cards at this bar, it really is the most chill way to end the evening. 

Rise & Shine 

Begin with breakfast at the hotel followed by time by the pool before heading back to your next destination. Grab a fresh juice or a cocktail, spread out on the sunbed with a book, and enjoy that hot Mexican sun. If time permits, add a tasting at Tequila Arette (which you will need to request over email), Casa Sauza, or Tequila Fortaleza, both of which require reservations as well.

Restauratn Mango Cocina de Origen at Casa Salles Hotel Boutique. The pool area at the hotel is below.

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