The winemaker 

Winemaking and viticulture was McLean’s second career pursuits after biochemistry. “I’ve never really considered winemaking as a career,” he admitted, but working in restaurants, he developed an interest in wine. After graduating from Brock University’s winemaking program, McLean moved back out west, where he spent eleven years making wine across the Okanagan, British Columbia (including LaStella and Tantalus Vineyards).

A typical winemaker’s journey takes them around the globe, working harvests in different wine regions. This wasn’t McLean’s journey, but Okanagan has a lot of foreign winemakers, which allowed him to work with winemakers from all over the world in a local climate. “The nice thing about having a bunch of different people that you’ve worked with is you can kind of pick and choose what you like from them and carry that with you,” he shared. “In hindsight, it was tough because you’re spending so long training, but now that I’m on the other side of it, I see all the tools and the skills that I picked up from those mentors as really invaluable. I’m really happy that I have gone that way, because it’s given me the confidence to move forward and believe in myself,” he added.

The winery

Black Bank Hill is a family business. The owner, Taylor Emerson, came back to Canada from London, UK, where he worked at the Weather Network, for a hard career pivot to winemaking in 2017. “Aloof” cousins on the mother’s side, Taylor and Jonathan, reconnected over winemaking while Jonathan was working in BC. Having recently lost his father, Jonathan felt a pull back to Ontario, strengthened by the opportunity to work with Taylor. 

“Taylor did a really good job finding a piece of property that can create really beautiful, distinct, and elegant wines,” Jonathan noted. The 20-acre property produces 12 varietals, five red (Pinot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot) and seven whites (Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne). For such a small piece of land, the range is very impressive.

2022 was the first year McLean grew the grapes and made the wine. The immense amount of rain made this a challenging harvest, resulting in a much lower yield. But despite the difficulties, those first few bottles performed really well at the National Wine Awards and in the Decanter Awards, with the Cabernet Franc winning platinum two years in a row. 

Tasting at Black Bank Hill winery in Niagara, Ontario, Canada. Photos by Kateryna Topol.

The not-so-secret sauce

Black Bank Hill winery is inherently natural. No enzymes or other additives are used in production. “People are often surprised that I’m able to create these colours and tannin structures without additives,” I was one of these people, he pointed out. There are a few things that he does differently in the cellar, but in McLean’s point of view, it is his winegrowing skills that make the wine:

The advantage of being the winemaker and wine grower is the ability to nurture the grapes throughout the year: “I’m making wine for four months before the grapes even show up,” he points out, “I think the big difference is the relationship I have with my vineyard”. This care and attention enable Jonathan to predict the yield outcomes come harvest, “my yields are always bang on, and that’s a sense of pride for me, at the end of the season, I can say, Taylor, you told me to pick 44 tons, and I picked 44 tons plus 200 kilograms”.

The grapes are hand-harvested and put through a basket press instead of a modern membrane press. This very strategic decision is one of many that look to treat the grape with respect and ensure year-to-year release consistency. “We’re doing everything we can to make sure that the grape is the hero of the show,” he shared.

Left: barrel room at Black Bank Hill, Niagara. Photo by Kateryna Topol. Right: Black Bank Hill Cabernet Franc harvest. Photo by Jonathan McLean.

The philosophy 

McLean is currently working on his Master’s in Environmental Sustainability. When asked why he chose sustainability over winemaking, a question he’s been asked more than once, he replies: “For me, what was more important is creating wines more sustainably, particularly in how it relates to my Indigenous heritage.”

“We didn’t know much about our father’s side of the family,” he admitted. But after his father’s passing, McLean’s sister dug into their heritage, learning that they come from the Tyendinaga Mohawk Territory. “I’m also part of the Bear Clan. My heritage goes back seven generations, all the way to the Mohawk Valley and what is now called New York state,” he shares. “My family has been part of this region for time immemorial, and a part of this is honouring them and honouring my ancestors, particularly my great-grandmother, who had her Indigenous status removed by the Canadian government.”

In the vineyard, he “decided to make a sustainability program based on traditional Indigenous knowledge, and that still is the goal,” but first, he needs to properly understand the traditional knowledge systems and how all of these relations (nature, community, history) can inform his approach to viticulture. “Reconnecting is a really challenging thing, because you feel the feelings,” he admits, “and you can choose to feel the feelings, and if you do, you have good days, and you have bad days,” admiring the strength of Indigenous people and being saddened by their continuous mistreatment.

Black Bank Hill winery production spaces. Photos by Kateryna Topol.

The winemaking future 

“My thesis is all about approaching wine in a different way, changing the colonial paradigms of sustainability and just kind of breaking down colonial structures in this industry,” McLean stated. “We have a lot of places in our industry where power is kind of collected and protected for certain people, and I’d love to see an industry that’s more inclusive. An industry that invites new voices and new faces.” McLean’s theory is that inviting new voices into the industry will inspire innovation that the industry so affected by climate change desperately needs. 

Winemaker’s favourite bottles

Visit blackbankhill.com to learn about the wine club and upcoming events.

The post Growing Niagara wine with Purpose with Jonathan McLean of Black Bank Hill appeared first on Paths to Travel.

You can spend many days driving around Jordan and Beamsville, tasting wines, strolling through vineyards, and enjoying outdoor dining at sunset – a truly wonderful way to spend a weekend. We’ve broken down the story into categories: wineries, breweries, attractions and accommodations. There is no dining-specific section because many wineries offer food, and some have really wonderful dining options you can take advantage of for lunch or dinner.

This article might contain affiliate links. Read the disclaimer about affiliate links & PR gifting here. 

Wineries:

Rosewood Estates Winery & Meadery

Here at Rosewood, they make wine and honey, both of which you can purchase on-site or have home delivered. The vineyard is surrounded by a beautiful view that you can enjoy during an outdoor tasting, sitting back in a Muskoka chair. The indoor space has a shop and a few dining tables; the decor is clean and modern, with a balance of farm chic and a bit of futurism accented by beehive decor. As of this summer, they also serve food, all locally sourced and prepared on-site. This menu is a range of delicious small bites. Throughout the year, Rosewood also host unique wine pairing dinners, follow them on Instagram or join the mailing list to keep up.

Favourite wines: Neptune (Riesling), Night Moves (Gamay Noir), and The Looking Glass (red blend).

Bachelder Wine

A passion project of lifelong winemakers Thomas and Mary Bachelder, who brought their Burgundy wine knowledge to the Niagara escarpment. The production is minimal intervention using wild yeasts and grapes carefully sourced from across the region, often grown specifically for Bachelder. The family works closely with the growers and has deep respect for the land, so the vineyard is always listed on the front label. This is a fairly small production, so tastings are only by reservation for members and mailing list subscribers.

Favourite wines: Les Villages Gamay Noir Niagara, L’il Kirby Gamay Noir, and Whismer-Foxcroft Chardonnay.

Black Bank Hill Winery, Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara wine country.

Black Bank Hill

Fairly new, family-owned winery where the winemaker, Jonathna McLean, is also the winegrower. The winery is quite small and very young, but their cellar is an impressively elegant selection of mature and approachable wines. Private tastings are available by reservation or drop-in.

Favourite wines: Liberté (Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne blend), Chenin Blanc, and Cabernet Franc.

The Good Earth Food and Wine Co.

This is a stunning property with an on-site restaurant (reserved well in advance), a separate wine-tasting area, and miles of peach orchards and vines surrounding the property. The winery has been open since 1998 and has a reputation for well-made, tasteful wines set against a stunning garden backdrop that many people choose as their wedding venue. The restaurant on the property is a hot destination for locals and winery visitors. Advance reservations are highly recommended (online or over the phone). The dining area in the summer spans from the garden to the backyard, where occasionally there is also live music.

Favourite wines: Riesling, Rosé, and Gamay.

Fielding Estate Winery

Wine Lodge on top of the Beamsville Bench with a lovely view. They have a patio and do seated tastings, which require reservations, but you could get a glass of wine as a walk-in and enjoy it at a picnic table in the backyard. Fielding Estate also make cider. 

Favourite wines: Estate Bottled Riesling

Redstone Winery & Restaurant

Fairly large property with indoor and outdoor dining and a tasting room. Our AirBNB was within walking distance so Redstone was perfect for dinner. The outdoor patio has lots of heating lamps, a fireplace, and a stunning view of the sunset over fields of grapes. The food was quite wonderful, and our server added to the experience with her cheerful attitude. You can get a sample flight of wines or choose by the glass or bottle. 

Favourite wines: Sparkling.  

Featherstone Estate Winery & Vineyard

So this place is super cute: there is an outdoor veranda that they doubled in size this year, you can get a cheese fondue with a tasting of wine, and there is a falconry on the property. You can just pop in to hang out and grab a flight of wines or pre-book one of their fun experiences ahead of time.

Favourite wine: Sauvignon Blanc and Gamay Noir

Kacaba Vineyards

This is a premium small-batch winery located a short drive from Bench Brewing. The owner of the winery, Michael Kacaba, use to work as a lawyer on Bay St., and when that was enough, he took up winemaking and has been doing so since 1997. The property is quite spacious with a nice outdoor area, offering plenty of space to relax and grab a catered snack on the weekend.

Favourite wines: Reserve Riesling, Effervescence Sparkling.

13th Street Winery

Another very popular spot with a great lunch menu and an on-site bakery. This location does get very busy, and people do line up for the bakery, but the meal is worth the wait. The property is an open field with a sculpture garden and an art gallery. Full sit-down tastings are by reservation only, but you can try wine in the garden. 

Favourite wines: June’s Vineyard Riesling, Reserve Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, and Premier Cuvée Sparkling.

Alvento Winery

This winery is located a bit out of the strip, but it is a fairly short and beautiful drive. The winery barn is located near a nursery and surrounded by a vineyard. Indoor and outdoor tastings are available, and they have a very healthy selection of wines. After the tasting, take a little stroll to get a full view of the building and a peek into the vineyard. 

Favourite wines: Riesling, Sparkling Rosé, North Wind (white blend), Boreas (red blend), and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Westcott Vineyards

Family-owned and operated winery focused on growing cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The winery building and visitors centre are built from a 200-year-old barn, using locally sourced reclaimed timber frames. The 43-acre site on the Twenty Mile Bench, called Butlers’ Grant Vineyard, has a phenomenal microclimate, allowing them to produce clean and beautiful wines with minimal intervention. The winery has a beautiful on-site outdoor restaurant in a tent overlooking the vines with a phenomenal sunset view of Vinemount Ridge. The seasonal patio restaurant has a fairly extensive menu, all prepared in the outdoor wood-burning oven in front of the guests.

Favourite wines: Traditional Blanc de Blancs sparkling, Reserve Chardonnay, and pretty much any Pinot Noir.

Malivoire Wine Company, Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara wine country.

Malivoire Wine Company

Really cool building, partially located inside a banker-like structure. They offer guided tastings by reservation or self-indulgent tastings out in the yard. The grape bushes grow up a hill away from the tasting room, making this location perfect for an intimate stroll with many photo ops. 

Favourite wines: Albert’s Honour Old Vines Foch, Small Lot Gamay, and Estate Grown Chardonnay

Tawse Winery

Sister (father?) winery to Redstone, this winery has a wide selection of wines and spirits, which you can taste on their enclosed, beautiful outdoor garden patio. They also sell some tasty jams and fresh potato chips to go with your wine tastings. 

Favourite wines: Guy Lafleur Cuvee Chardonnay and Spark Riesling – Limestone Ridge

Domaine Queylus Winery

Located on the outskirts of the area, this is a unique and private space in a newly renovated cabin with a tasting room extension. The outdoor terrace has curtained seating areas that feel like cabanas, a view of a field, and a couple of ponds. For a snack, you can get a charcuterie, which comes in a pizza box, thoroughly enjoyed that.

Favourite wines: Reserve du Domain Pinot Noir and Tradition Chardonnay

Hidden Bench Estate Winery

Lovely, quiet spot with a terrace where you can taste a range of wines by the glass. This winery does offer special experience tastings, which you need to book ahead of time. This winery is owned and operated by Harald Thiel and his family and primarily focuses on Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling – very common in this region.

Favourite wines: Blanc de Blanc sparkling, need to return to try a few more.

Organized Crime Winery

Second-generation family-owned, small boutique winery with a sloping yard overlooking the nearby vineyard. Their wine selection is quite rich, and in 2019, OCW placed in the top three at the National Wine Awards of Canada. The backyard has plenty of seating with a view, and occasionally, they have daily tasting specials. This is also one of the few wineries that open till 6 pm (but do check their site to be sure).

Breweries:

Bench Brewing Company

Near Redstone is the Bench Brewing Company, which seems like the most popular spot in the area and may be hard to get in, but if you do, make sure to try one of their pretzels! Here you can get flights, samples, full pints, and a hearty meal. A fun fact about this building is it used to be a school, so the architectural transformation is quite interesting. 

Newark Brewing Company

New craft brewery in Beamsville that offers food from Blue Collar Kitchen, beer tastings (Dunkel, Helles, Wit, and Dubbel), and live music on some nights. For the guests in your party who might want or need other options, there is also wine and cider available on the menu.

Attractions & Accommodations:

Twenty Valley does not have a lot of hotels, with most of them located in nearby small towns like Niagara-on-the-Lake (NOTL), St. Catharines, Jordan Station/Lincoln, or Beamsville. Many people opt for private holiday rentals to stay in the valley.

The Juniper Inn in St. Catharines, for example, is a great boutique option with self-check-in. The Inn is operated by self-check-in, which is convenient if you don’t know what time you might be arriving. Each room has a uniquely different decor, ours (Room R) is inspired by the Hollywood-style rock n’ roll. St. Catharines, as one of the biggest cities in the area, also has larger hotel chains like Hampton Inn by Hilton, Staybridge Suites, and Four Points by Sheraton, to name a few. There are a handful of vintage boutique hotels in NOTL, including 124 on Queen Hotel & Spa, The Shaw Club Hotel, Riverbend Inn Vineyard, and the Harbour House. In Jordan Station/Lincoln, you will also find some larger hotel chains like The Jordan Ramada,

Find more hotels in the Niagara wine country

* * *

If you need some early morning adventure, Ball’s Falls Conservation Area has a lot to explore, from old-timy houses to waterfalls and hikes. There are different ways to get to the waterfall; some offer a view from the top, some from the bottom. This entrance is close to the parking lot.

To break up the winery strolls, pop into Prudhomme’s Antique Market and the Jordan Harbour Marina [very last image] and go for a walk to see the abandoned pirate ship, La Grande Hermine.

Regional wine tours

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