This article might contain affiliate links. Read the disclaimer about affiliate links & PR gifting here. 
This stay was hosted by Leeward House Thornbury, which did not review or approve this story.

The Vibe & Shared spaces

At first glance, the hotel feels like a modern reno, but unique architectural touches here and there expose it as a new build. Leeward House owner and founder John Paul Adamo purchased the lot with a Victorian house pub still intact. The original structure was not safe, but Adamo took inspiration from its character. The new build was designed by Hamilton-based interior design studio Westgrove, which leaned into the region’s Great Lakes shipping history and the rural character of Grey County. The result is a clean, classic build that seamlessly blends into the town and the nature surrounding it.

The main building is a lobby that serves as the hotel lounge. A few cosy, intimate seats surround the concierge desk, which also serves as a bar, ready to pour your wine and mix your cocktails. A built-in cabinet on the right is stacked with books and board games to facilitate a relaxing stay. The wrap-around porch with just a handful of tables is perfect for a pre-dinner beverage or an afternoon snack, like crudite and dips or a salumi plate. 

Many of the carefully curated decorative elements around the property are sourced from local vendors like Danfield Antiques, Inheritance Studios, and reDiscovered on Marsh. By the main entrance is a large firepit, which upon request will be prepared for evening marshmallows and nightcaps by the hotel’s friendly staff. 

Lobby and firepit at the Leeward House Thornbury, images by Kateryna Topol.

Built-in Wellness 

The fenced area between the two buildings contains a year-round pool and a mini Nordic spa circuit. The hotel does not position itself as a wellness retreat per se, but the complimentary availability of such serves certainly makes it feel like one.

Bengal striped sunbeds, shaded by burgundy coloured umbrellas, line the long side of the pool. Loungers with similar motifs are set along the far end for a sit-down moment. At the far end, the hot tub is followed by a cold plunge pool, and a black Nordic sauna with floor-to-ceiling windows facing the afternoon sun. Many hours can be purposefully lost in this space while the Leeward team attends to your every need.

When the winter comes, the heated pool flooring will be paired with space heaters and appropriately cosy decor, making this small wellness retreat a year-round wellness destination in Thornbury.

Sauna and poolside cava at the Leeward House Thornbury, images by Kateryna Topol.

Inside the Suite

Two of the larger guest suites are located in the main house. These rooms have king beds, built-in bunk beds, and private balconies with partial lake and town views. The Guest House contains the other seven rooms, each with a private entrance and a shaded balcony out back. A wall-mounted privacy spinner sits by each door.

The rooms follow a through design, with the bathroom by the main door and the bedroom with a vaulted ceiling closer to the window. The bathrooms have heated floors, rainfall showers and terracotta-tinted ceramic tiles, bringing that spa feeling into the room. The vanity, made of earthy Golden Cobra marble, is uniquely placed outside the bathroom, wrapping around the corner where it turns into the coffee nook. Each room is equipped with a Dyson hair dryer, portable Marshall speaker and smart TV, plush towels and bathrobes, and B-Corp-certified Le Labo bath and body amenities.

King room at the Leeward House Thornbury Guest House, images by Kateryna Topol.

The bedding is Italian linens with goose-down duvets and feather pillows resting on a Canadian-made organic mattress. Storage is hidden behind candy-striped curtains, a large, natural fibre rug, made by Montreal rug maker Mark Krebs, sits under the bed.

The balcony faces private homes, but there is enough tree shade to make it feel like your personal secret retreat. A couch, in the same pattern as the pool cushions, is paired with a coffee table and a comfortable lounge chair with a stand. Here you can take your morning coffee while listening to the sounds of nature and migrating birds as squirrels and chipmunks chase across the trees. 

Book direct on leewardhouse.co to take advantage of special offers; compare rates to Expedia.

Private terrace at the Leeward House Thornbury Guest House, images by Kateryna Topol.

The post Leeward House Thornbury, a year-round wellness retreat in Ontario appeared first on Paths to Travel.

It is a region where dense spruce forests abruptly drop off into wind-swept ocean cliffs, where ancient pirate havens shelter modern-day fishing communities, and where the fierce natural beauty of the coast is matched only by the deep, intergenerational hospitality of its people. To step onto the peninsula is to leave the frantic pace of modern life behind and step directly into a living maritime story.

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Parts of this trip were hosted by Happy Adventure Inn, which did not review or approve this story.

Sanctuary in Powell’s Cove

Tucked along this jagged coast lies a refuge for travellers in Powell’s Cove, a stunning seaside retreat overlooking Newman’s Sound: the Happy Adventure Inn. The surrounding community traces its storied roots back to 1710, built around a hidden harbour allegedly chosen as a sanctuary by the 17th-century pirate Peter Easton. But today, the true heartbeat of Happy Adventure lives in the radiant, charming smile of Shar-lett, the daughter of the Inn’s pioneering owners, Chuck and Brenda Matchim. Shar-lett runs the business alongside her partner, James, who manages the restaurant, keeping the family legacy alive; together, they welcome you with the kind of ease and warmth that makes you forget you are checking into a hotel at all. The property is a labour of love where Chuck’s forty years of entrepreneurial experience meets Brenda’s creative spirit, highlighted by her lifelike canvas paintings anchoring the spaces with local scenes.

Left: Shar-lett and James from Happy Adventure Inn, image by Nupur Singh. Right: Happy Adventure Inn, image courtesy of the Inn.

The experience deepens at the acclaimed Chucky’s Seafood and Wild Game Restaurant. Here, over slow mugs of coffee, locally foraged nature, and freshly hauled ocean catches, visitors enjoy slow, hearty, nourishing meals overlooking jaw-dropping scenery that bridges the gap between historical storytelling and island hospitality. Just steps below the dining room tables, the icy depths of the harbour reveal an otherworldly ecosystem. Peering past the docks, the shadows come alive with spectacular marine life as dozens of Northern Comb Jellies float past like translucent ghosts, their specialised cells firing with brilliant bursts of blue and green bioluminescence in the pier shadows. Rising from the darker channels, the massive, amber-hued umbrellas of Lion’s Mane jellyfish drift with a slow, hypnotic weight, trailing a dangerous web of fine, sweeping tentacles through the currents—a stark reminder of the fierce, hidden sting guarding these northern waters.

Salvaje Longhouse Brewery, images courtesy of the brewery.

Trails, tides & Tails

The call of the wilderness draws me out for a morning trek along the Damnable Trail, a world-class hiking network weaving deep through a thick spruce forest before unfolding onto dramatic, wind-swept cliffs that look out at the sweeping expanses of the North Atlantic. After tackling the challenging coastal terrain, the perfect midday reward waits in the neighbouring historic community of Salvage at the striking red Salvaje Longhouse Brewery. Visitors can lounge under a warm golden sun on the patio to try a tasting flight of their craft beers—from the Little Light Lager to the Beach Day IPA—alongside a delicious lobster roll.

Happy Adventure Tours, images courtesy of the tour company.

Conveniently, the brewery serves as a dockside departure point for Happy Adventure Tours. Stepping directly from the longhouse onto the rigid-hull zodiac boat, we roared out into the deep open waters, leaving the iconic red Salvaje Longhouse behind. A row of pastel homes dotted along the shore quickly faded from view, and before I even realised it, we were out in the deep blue ocean. The marine landscape was teeming with life. Hundreds of colourful puffins and razorbills blurred past, nesting along the weathered rock faces and diving into the swells. Just twenty minutes into the offshore tour, our onboard naturalist, Andrew, pointed us in the right direction. Suddenly, two blowhorns ruptured the quiet air as massive tails slapped against the surface, revealing two sperm whales floating serenely at the top, witnessing something of that wild scale felt entirely unreal.

By evening, I made my way to Eastport Beach, where the entire shore lines up with people fishing with their bare hands and kids sprinting along the tide line with nets, scooping up fish by the dozen. This spectacular wonder is known as capelin rolling—a frantic spawning ritual where massive, shimmering silver schools swarm the shallows. Hitting the sand by the millions, their arrival completely transforms the landscape. The surging abundance draws humpback whales, cod, and thousands of seabirds right to the water’s edge to feed alongside humans, washing over the smooth pebbles and pulling the entire ecosystem into the surf.

The Twillingate detour with Captain Dave Boyd

The next morning, setting out on a day trip, the journey loops upward toward Twillingate, the Iceberg Capital of the World. This historic fishing town offers another legendary opportunity for open-ocean whale watching. I stepped aboard with Captain Dave Boyd, eager for an encounter, but the horizon remained quiet. No whales were spotted, but I saw a magnificent bald eagle soaring overhead. The true highlight was visiting Captain Dave Boyd’s Museum, a treasure trove of seafaring lore. Captain Dave Boyd himself is a master storyteller. Reflecting on the unpredictable, untamed Atlantic Ocean, he shared his favourite line with a grin: “She is a woman, she don’t listen always.”

Left: Captain Dave Boyd, image courtesy of Dave Boyd. Right: Humpback whale breaching, image by Jorge Vasconez.

A lasting impression

The day concludes on a private balcony at the Happy Adventure Inn. Free from city light pollution, the night sky transforms into a brilliant, velvety theatre as the glowing band of the Milky Way stretches across the horizon. Below, a matching magic mirrors the stars as sea sparkle takes effect, flashing a vibrant neon blue through the gentle harbour currents. Standing between the starlight above and the neon glow below, the entire universe puts on a show for a harbour that has truly stolen my heart—leaving me with the absolute certainty that this untamed edge of the world can always call me back with just one echoing blowhorn.

The post An escape to Eastport Peninsula, where whales, ocean’s harvest, and winding trails meet along the jagged coastline appeared first on Paths to Travel.

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Palma de Mallorca, Spain. Images by Kateryna Topol.

Morning

After enjoying a slow morning coffee, begin your day with a stroll across Palma’s Paseo Marítimo, a picturesque waterfront promenade parallel to the city’s seafront. You could walk as far as the airport, but the recommended stretch is the green waterfront and beach near the city centre.  

Afternoon. For a morning snack, walk over to Ca na Cati Pastisseria, near Casa de la Vila de Ciutat de Mallorca (Palma City Hall), and try one of their authentic empanadas. This traditional empanada (Empanadas Mallorquinas) feels more like a small pie made with Iberico ham and takes nearly eleven hours to make.

Empanadas Mallorquinas at Ca na Cati Pastisseria. Images by Kateryna Topol.

Afternoon 

Spend the early afternoon navigating the narrow streets of Palma’s Old Town, often referred to in Spanish as ‘El Casco Antiguo’. Between the charming medieval streets and historic architecture are the city’s many tourism attractions, Gothic churches, scenic squares, and patios that date back centuries. 

Find shade in Parc de la Mar, located at the bottom of La Seu Cathedral. This stunning Basílica was declared a Historic-Artistic Monument in 1931 and has the largest original rose (a circular stained glass) window of all European Gothic cathedrals. Nearby is the Royal Palace of Almudaina, a 14th-century palace and one of the official residences of the Spanish royal family. Almudaina is open for visitors Tuesday through Sunday. Make sure to spend some time at the Es Baluard Contemporary Art Museum. This impressively spacious art centre also has a wonderful open roof terrace with endless Palma views. 

No visit to Palma is complete without a taste of Iberico ham (Jamón ibérico), and the best place to find it in the city is Mercado del Olivar. The market is set indoors and does not look like much from the outside, but the interior mini-maze navigates through a mix of fruit and vegetable vendors and multiple jamón shops. Locals perch on stools with curated meat and cheese boards, sipping Spanish wine and discussing weekly events.

Pop into Lili’s for a cold cocktail on the patio, overlooking the lively Plaza del Mercat. Stay longer for brunch and chit-chat, enjoying modern takes on Spanish classics. A fun lunch alternative is a food tour with a local. NoFrills, for example, will take you through all the classics with a dash of history and plenty of food to enjoy.

Jamón ibérico at the Mercado del Olivar. Images by Kateryna Topol.

Left: Cocktail and coffee at Lili’s; Right: Vermouth at La Rosa Vermuteria & Colmado. Images by Kateryna Topol.

Evening

Head over to Carrer de Sant Feliu to take in some contemporary art at the Gerhardt Braun Galleries. This corner of the city is home to many other art galleries, including Gallery Red, Casal Solleric, Pelaires, and the Rialto Living art and lifestyle shop, just to name a few. 

For dinner, set up for the evening at La Rosa Vermuteria & Colmado for a taste of local in a cool environment or spread your meal across multiple stops with Food Tours Balearics, a uniquely local food tour company that offers curated self-guided dining experiences in the city’s newest and coolest spots.

After dinner, walk off the culinary delicacies with a stroll past Sa Feixina Park to find Palma’s many cocktail bars. Enjoy nightcaps and liquid libations at Quentin’S Saloon, Agabar Cocktail Bar, The Library STFU, NOX, or Turpial Cocktail Bar. This “bar crawl” alone could take multiple days and is a great spot to meet and chat with locals. 

Gerhardt Braun Gallery. Images by Kateryna Topol.

Where to stay in Palma

The historic city centre has many beautiful boutique hotels with unique decor, a mix of amenities, stunning views, and on-site restaurants and bars. At the top of the game are Concepció by Nobis, Can Alomar Urban Luxury Retreat, Sant Jaume Design Hotel, and Calatrava Mediterranean Sea House (adults only). Public transit in Mallorca is quite accessible, so you could stay further out in a coastal resort like Hotel BonSol Resort & Spa and simply visit the city for a day.

Pool at Concepcio by Nobis hotel, image courtesy of the hotel. Calatrava Hotel wellness centre, image courtesy of the hotel.

Day tours 

Palma de Mallorca: 5-Hour Catamaran Cruise with Lunch & Swim

Cruise along the spectacular south coast of Mallorca by catamaran with two stops along the way. Drop anchor in Portals Vells or Cala Vella to swim and snorkel in the turquoise waters while a delicious barbecue meal is prepared on board.

Book excursion

Caves of Drach Half-Day Tour with Boat Trip and Music Concert

Live classic music from floating musicians makes exploring the Caves of Drach even more dramatic. With a rowboat ride across Lake Martel and a stop at a Mallorca pearl factory, this half-day tour features the cave’s magnificent highlights, from turquoise-colored water to soaring rock formations.

Book excursion

Mallorca: Tour of the Island — Boat, Soller Train, Tram, Lluc and Sa Calobra

Discover Mallorca on a unique route through the Sierra de Tramuntana. Enjoy the wild Sa Calobra, sail to Soller Port, and travel back in time on its historic 1912 tram and train. This is an eight-hour tour with multiple stops across the island.

Book excursion

The post 24 hours in Palma de Mallorca: Best things to do in one day appeared first on Paths to Travel.

But, it’s, ideally, the best bread (Bolle), the best sea-salty butter (Med) and slices of excellent Danish cheese-usually Gammel, a crystal-studded Havarti that’s aged for at least two years, or Vesterhavsost, also known as “North Sea Cheese.”  Everywhere you go in Copenhagen, you’ll see people lining up to buy one. And, despite it only having three ingredients, someone actually wrote a cookbook about  BMOs. 

To get to the bottom of why this most banal of sandwiches has inspired such frenzy, I set out for a day of BMO tasting with Lily and Marie, of My Dear Copenhagen, who are completely plugged into Copenhagen’s baking culture.

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Cover image by Daniel Rasmussen.

Our plan was to bike to the shops of the most lauded of the new generation of bakers who’ve helped make Copenhagen the bakery capital of the world (sorry, Paris). Many are former Noma chefs. Others pride themselves on not having gone through the Noma system. We would take a taste of a BM0 at each one. But before that, an overview:  “Nowadays, you can basically find bakeries on every corner of Copenhagen,  influencers lining up in the rain to get a cardamom bun, and snapping photos of bakery windows. But it wasn’t always like this. There is a history of rye bread in Denmark that goes back to the Vikings. Yet through the 1970s, 80s, and 90s, the baking scene was quite dead. People used to buy industrial bread at the gas station or supermarket. Then came what is known as the Danish Sourdough Revolution,” Lily said.

Our first stop was Apotek 57, a bakery and café inside the showroom of Frama, a well-known Danish design firm,  on the site of a 19th century pharmacy. The location faces a block of screaming yellow 18th-row houses built for naval members. This pretty picture was made more appealing by the ultra-stylish crowd queuing up.

I peered into Apotek’s tiny kitchen and saw what seemed like an infinity mirror image of BMO plates being prepared. We ordered ours to go. I took my first taste of the trending item, standing by my rented bike. It didn’t take me long to see the appeal. A case of simplicity done to perfection. The fresh sesame seed bun, the aged cheese with a few crystals, the soft, salty butter. Yum.

Left: BMO, courtesy of Andersen & Maillard. Right: Apotek 57, courtesy of My Dear Copenhagen.

Soon we were cycling past the King’s Gardens and the Rosenborg Castle to Riviera, owned by Italian-born Chiara Barla (who also owns Apotek 57), and here, too, people were brunching on BMOs and beautiful Danish pastries, including Riviera’s signature spandauers. 

Barla explained that what makes BMOs so interesting is that they’re the Platonic ideal of a breakfast sandwich. “With only three ingredients, a BMO has nowhere to hide. It has to be the best quality”.  Riviera’s BMO came in a slightly charred sourdough bun with just the right amount of density, chew and tanginess, delicious Danish butter and two slices of salty Danish cheese.

Each BMO tastes and looks different. Some might have a sesame seed bun, some poppyseed, some plain sourdough. The proper ratio  -bun to cheese to butter – also makes the difference. The spreadability and saltiness of the butter have to be just right, too. There are a lot of factors, it’s positively mathematical. In fact, two anonymous Danes, purported to be mathematicians, have created a website that ranks the city’s BMOs using an equation they developed.

Left: Sesame buns, image courtesy of Andersen & Mallard; Right: Riviera Bakery, image courtesy of My Dear Copenhagen.

Next stop was the ultimate insider Copenhagen bakery. Sinne Gas, a tiny shop on the aptly named Ryesgade street, in hip Østerbro, has no front-of-house staff. Payment operates on the honour system. There was room for only a couple of customers at a time, but there was more than enough space for the intoxicating aroma of baking bread coming from the kitchen. And the finished product: Sourdough that was a dream-slightly crispy on the outside, with a tangy aftertaste. The salty Vesterhavs cheese and whipped butter complemented the bun perfectly. They also make stellar cardamom buns, so we grabbed one of those for good measure.

We veered our bikes towards the culturally diverse Nørrebro neighbourhood, and to Meyers bakery. It was our fourth stop, but historically, philosophically, Meyers could be first on the list. “This tiny bakery is where it all started,” Marie said. Calling owner Claus Meyers “a sort of visionary.” He was the founder of the New Nordic Cuisine Movement and co-founder of Noma, she explained how local farmers had reintroduced Meyers to a high-quality ancient grain called Öland, “full of gluten, high in protein and very good flavour. He sold this flour from his shop because he wanted to bring to normal people the knowledge of sourdough and slow fermentation.” During COVID, as we all know, the sourdough trend boomed, “and it was the start of the BMO trend too, because bakeries were among the only places continuously open”.

Meyers Bakery, images courtesy of My Dear Copenhagen.

Left: BMO on a plate, image courtesy of Hart Bakery; Right: Hart Bakery, courtesy of My Dear Copenhagen.

Hart is probably the best-known of all Copenhagen bakeries, thanks to the TV series The Bear. Emily Corbeil, the Canadian manager at Hart’s Nørrebro branch, said: “I really do feel that our sourdough bread is the best bread in Copenhagen. It has a really nice chew, not too dry or soggy or soft.”  It tasted brilliant with slices of Efterglød, a premium aged cheese with brown butter notes, and a smear of creamy butter. 

By the time we got to Rondo, another local favourite, it was afternoon, and they were sold out of a lot of things, including BMOs. We got one of their other specialities, focaccia, and took a nibble as we passed the old cemetery where the great Danish philosopher Kierkegaard is buried.

Our BMO crawl ended at Andersen & Maillard. After so many BMO tastings, I thought I couldn’t eat any more. But the first bite of this BMO was like my very first one. A revelation. A classic sesame bun with the perfect, salted whipped butter and intoxicating Gammel Knas cheese with its little bits of crystals. (Danes call it cheese candy). The manager mentioned that when there was a shortage of Gammel Knas a while back, Danes went “a little nuts.”

Left: Andersen & Maillard, image courtesy of the bakery. Right: Rondo Bakery, images courtesy of My Dear Copenhagen.

Finally we called it quits. You’d think the last thing I’d want to do is try another BMO, but the next morning, I found myself up early and heading to Juno the Bakery, a social media darling, known for long lines and excellent cardamom buns. But it was a cold and grey morning, so there were only a few people between me and my first BMO of the day, and yes, again, it was absolutely delicious.

I thought of the avocado toast trend and how quickly it went global. There would be nothing easier than exporting this trend. Bread, butter, cheese. But I began to understand that BMOs are really of their place. The sandwich doesn’t just taste of bread, cheese and butter, but also of simplicity, authenticity, the sea, and a particular Danish love of the perfection of functionality.

BMO sandwich and Cardamom bun, images courtesy of Juno The Bakery.

If you go, find a hotel in Copenhagen

The post Why everyone in Copenhagen is lining up for  a cheese sandwich: The 3-ingredient Danish obsession appeared first on Paths to Travel.

At night, the windows let in no light, heavy curtains setting a barrier to what otherwise would be, a very boring view. All lighting is intentional, setting the mood suitable to the dark green walls and Baroque-era colour palette artwork. There are only eleven tables and eight chef’s counter seats in this moderately intimate establishment. The dinner service unfolds like a performance, with the chef’s team set behind a wide kitchen top at the front of a large open fire – the stage.

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Cover photo by Courtney Peters, courtesy of Revé Restaurant.

Images by Courtney Peters, courtesy of Revé Restaurant.

The experience

The promise is, well, not really simple, but easy enough to grasp: “farm-to-table craftsmanship and unreasonable hospitality,” the website states. The service approach is inspired by Will Guidara’s book Unreasonable Hospitality (there’s also a TED Talk, if you’re short on time). For the team at Revé, that means that every “ingredient and every gesture is guided by passion”. 

Seated at the chef’s counter, my eyes travel to the menu card, my party’s name is at the top. “Imagined by Chef Adriano Cappuzzello, hosted by Nicole Pisarenko, Anna Kruusi and Kevin Gillingham,” a small note in the bottom corner reads. The ten-course menu, detailed on the card, includes the name of the dish and core ingredients, accompanied by the selected wine pairing, if you choose to go that route. I did. A thoughtful wine pairing adds exciting layers of complexity to each dish and the wine itself.

Nicole briefly explains the experience: a narrative menu will be served as a communal experience, bringing people together through food and stories. This particular menu is illustrative of Chef Adriano’s culinary journey and the moments that shaped it. With each carefully placed dish, he tells a story or offers a visual accompaniment. Each dish is intricately plated on mostly odd-shaped plates, chosen to accent the story behind it.

The menu changes seasonally and depending on product availability. Tonight’s menu travels from beef cheek to scallops, broccoli, venison, spaghetti, sweetbreads, sablefish, and beef bouvette. The sweet courses include Chef’s take on a Pavlova and creme caramel. The stories offer context to the unusual flavour combinations, textures, and all-around plating that often results in a visible surprise on first bite. Not everything is what it seems, but it is pleasantly delicious and occasionally new to the palate.

Images by Courtney Peters, courtesy of Revé Restaurant.

The team 

The restaurant concept is the work of two couples, Chef Adriano Cappuzzello and Nicole Pisarenko, and Anna Kruusi and Kevin Gillingham. The foursome met fifteen years ago working in the industry and eventually decided to come together, thinking that maybe “four brains are better than two,”  Anna shared. “The first time Adriano and Nicole made us a meal, it was by an open fire, so when we saw this place, it felt serendipitous,” she reflected, and so the ‘live fire’ concept came to the forefront. The shared ideas, and funds, came together into one restaurant, and this August, Revé celebrated its one-year anniversary. 

Chef Adriano Cappuzzello, born in Ragusa, Sicily, began his career in a 1-Michelin-star restaurant at the age of fourteen. “I started this job because it allows you to travel, and that’s what I always wanted to do,” he admitted. Since that first position, Chef Adriano worked in notable kitchens in Spain, Malta, Germany, and the UK, picking up tricks of the trade for his arsenal. Today, the menu ideas come from these past experiences, drawn from memory and developed in collaboration with the kitchen team. 

Left: Chef Adriano Cappuzzello by Jose Jacob. Right: Kevin Gillinghamby, Anna Kruusi, Nicole Pisarenko, and Chef Adriano Cappuzzello by Courtney Peters. Images courtesy of Revé Restaurant.

The provisions 

The majority of the produce used in the restaurant comes from a farm near Niagara Falls, a three-acre farm managed by Chef Adriano. “I’ve just left the farm,” he explained, joining the call from his car. The remote location, far away from any neighbours or wineries, allows the team to maintain organic practices and regenerative farming. Wildflowers planted throughout the farm create a friendly environment for wild pollinators and bees residing in the farm apiary. “It’s a whole ecosystem,” he added. Aside from supplying the restaurant, this farm also stocks a nearby retail shop. 

Chef Adriano has an inherent respect for the place and its terroir, so seasonality of ingredients is the driving force for the menu. Beef and lamb are sourced from small, nearby family-owned farms, like Heatherbrae Farms. “The cows are just let free, and they eat the fresh grass,” he added. “I care a lot about the animals, they need to be treated properly, and that’s what Daniel does.” To minimise waste, Chef Adriano will also purchase the bits of animals others won’t, to use in stocks, broth, base preparation, and sauces. 

* * *

“What is your collective goal for the restaurant?” I asked. “Michelin stars are every chef’s dream. Anyone who tells you differently is not truthful,” Chef Adriano replied. “If we get there, that’s amazing. But really, we just want our restaurant to be busy every day … everything else will come later,” he concluded. Later in September, Revé was nominated for AirCanada’s Best New Restaurants 2026, and a week later, the restaurant received its Michelin Recommended status.

Image by Courtney Peters, courtesy of Revé Restaurant.

If you go

Revé offers two dining options (reservation strongly recommended): 

• A 4-course tasting: A focused introduction to the season’s best. Built around what the region’s farms are producing right now, served at your own table in the main dining room.
• A 10-course tasting: A blind progression through the season. Ten courses guided by Chef Adriano and the team over the course of an evening, with beverage pairings available.

Find a hotel in Niagara-on-the-Lake

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Founded by the Romans two and a half thousand years ago and made rich by the silk industry, Lyon has more than its share of stories to tell. But, of course, the main story is the food. Cuisine is to Lyon what the Eiffel Tower is to Paris. Lyon’s location in one of the most fertile regions in France has made it the country’s undisputed culinary capital.

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Cover image: Dusk view over Saone, image by Krom Galerie courtesy of Lyon Tourism & Conventions.

Although Lyon owes a lot of its culinary fame to star chefs such as Paul Bocuse and Daniel Bouloud, historically, in Lyon, gastronomy was a woman’s job. You’ll notice a lot of restaurants with Mère in the name. Les Mères Lyonnaises (the Lyonnais Mothers) refers to the long history of women who made Lyonnais cooking famous. Many started as cooks for wealthy families. Others cooked for the silk workers. Eventually, some set up their own restaurants and became legends. Among them is La Mère Brazier, the first person to get six Michelin stars. Paul Bocuse himself studied under her. Other notable Mères in history were La Mère Guy, La Mère Bizolon, and La Mère Fillioux, who was Mère Brazier’s mentor. 

The true spirit of  Lyonnais cuisine can be found in Bouchons. These are casual, unpretentious, and moderately priced restaurants unique to Lyon. While you can and should try, if time and budget allow, a fancy restaurant in Lyon, a bouchon should not be skipped.

What to try: Les spécialités Lyonnaise

Quenelle Lyonnaise: The Lyonnais dish par excellence: sausage-shaped dough is filled with minced fish (usually pike) and creme, often cooked au gratin and covered with a shrimp sauce (the famous Nantua sauce) or sometimes béchamel, less often tomato sauce.  

Cervelle de canut (Silkworker’s Brains): This iconic dish contains neither silk nor brains. It refers to a dish the silk workers would eat after a long night toiling in the factories. It’s a spread made from creamy farmhouse cheese mixed with shallots, herbs and oil and spread on bread or eaten as a dip.  While the uppercrust dined on delicacies like lamb’s brains, Cervelle de Canut was the silk workers’ meatless answer.

Salade Lyonnaise: An elegant and filling salad that consists of frisée lettuce,  lardons, a poached egg, and croutons pan-fried in lardon fat until golden brown. It’s a vibrant salad with a beautiful taste and texture.

Rosette de Lyon: A classic dried spiced pork sausage that finds its way onto any self- respecting charcuterie board and picnic basket. (With its charming river banks and parks, and food, there’s no better place to picnic than Lyon)

Poulet demi-deuil (Chicken in Half-Mourning): Poulet demi-deuil is another Lyonnais classic said to be invented by La Mère Fillioux. It’s made by placing shaved black truffles under the skin of a chicken, resembling the veil of a woman in mourning. Because  you can see some of the bird’s white meat through the skin, though, it’s only “half-mourning.”

Tarte à la Praline Rose (Pink Praline Tarte): You’ll see this fuchsia-coloured tarte in almost every boulangerie in town. The butter crust tart topped with pink pralines pieces and cream is one of Lyon’s best-known patisseries. It’s perfect for an afternoon treat with coffee, or to end a meal. Other pink pralines-forward treats include a Praluline  brioche for a breakfast treat

La Buvette Lyonnaise, image by Delphine Castel, images by Delphine Castel, courtesy of Lyon Tourism & Conventions.

Where to eat in Lyon

Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse: The sprawling central indoor market named after the legendary chef is a temple to gastronomy, and a great first stop to get an overview of the wonderful produce, fish, meat, cheese and seafood (you haven’t lived until you’ve had a plate of oysters and a glass of wine for breakfast) – that Lyon has to offer. The market gets crowded, and it’s best to go early in the morning.  Les Halles was recently voted the third-best market in the world by the Food & Wine Global Tastemakers Awards for 2026. 

Les Bouchons Lyonnais: Bouchons are the places to try perfectly executed classics like quenelles, salade lyonnaise and other specialities like andouillette sausages and duck pâté. Pride in the produce and a warm welcome are standards of Lyonnais Bouchons. These eateries emerged in the 17th and 18th centuries. Unlike the more upmarket fine dining establishments, the bouchons emphasise simplicity, community, and tradition.  Think red checkered tablecloths and hanging copper pots. 

Unfortunately, quite a few tourist trap “bouchons” exist that don’t live up to their name. Most of these are clustered around the souvenir shops of Vieux Lyon. That said, there are a few authentic and highly recommended bouchons to be found in that neighbourhood, so it does get confusing. Luckily, an association was created that certifies bouchons as “authentic” so you can enjoy the genuine bouchon experience you came for. Look for signs in windows or on restaurant websites that have the  “Bouchon Lyonnais” quality label. No matter which you choose, reserve in advance.

A few tried & True Bouchons:

Daniel & Denis: There are a couple of branches around town, but the one in the Old Town is the one we recommend for bouchon classics: Try the saucisson forestier and pâté en croûte for which the chef was crowned world champion.

Café Comptoir Abel: The Lyonnais’ favourite bouchon,  especially when it comes to their pike quenelle gratin, and chicken with morels in cream sauce. 

Brasserie Georges: It’s the oldest brasserie in the city. And yes, it is a bit touristy, but it’s still very good. Located in a cavernous former train station main hall with beautiful Art Deco decor.

Café des Fédérations: first opened its doors in 1872  and has been serving Lyonnais classics ever since. It’s well priced, and portions are generous.

Beyond the Bouchons: Some fine dining options

Söma: Sarah Hamza continues the tradition of influential women cooks at this Michelin-recognised, stylish modern bistro offering French cuisine with North African inflexions.

Le Canut et les Gones: a lovely bistrot in the Croix Rousse district that offers French classics.

La Mère Brazier: a temple of fine dining where you can try the traditional poularde demi-deuil.

A note on local wine

Lyon is located in the middle of two of France’s most important wine regions: Burgundy and the Rhône Valley, and the Beaujolais region is not far. Local wines, unsurprisingly, figure prominently on restaurant menus. A day trip out to a winery or two to sample some amazing Côte-Rôtie or fruity Beaujolais or Burgundies (either on your own or with a tour) completes the Lyonnais gastronomic experience.

Getting around Lyon

Like Paris, Lyon is divided into arrondissements, or districts, each with its own distinct character. The city is compact, if gently sloping, and the large majority of what you want to see is accessible on foot, though there are also metros, buses and trams. There’s also a funiculaire which you should take from the Old City up to the top of the Fourviere hill to see the beautiful eponymous Basilica and Roman arena. Old Lyon (Vieux Lyon) is the historic part of the city located along the Saône River. Presqu’île is a peninsula between the two rivers that’s pedestrian-friendly and full of lively cafes and bars.  

Around town must see attractions include the Musee des Beaux Arts once one of the richest abbeys in France, now the city’s premiere art museum; The fantastic Silk Museum; The Cinema Museum (Lyon is the birthplace of the brothers Lumiere; and don’t miss a tour through Lyon’s Traboules, a network of secret passageways and courtyards once used by the silk workers (later by the Resistance) that go across buildings and connect streets. They are fascinating and full of intrigue.

Best time to visit

May and  June or September and October are prime times to visit Lyon. In spring and early summer, the weather is lovely. In late summer,  markets are bursting with local bounty, and it’s still warm enough to sit outside. If you’re focusing on wine, then September-November are the months to visit.

Find a hotel in Lyon

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“UNSALTED” reads the sweatshirt worn by a sunkissed teen standing in line with her friends for ice cream on a warm summer night in Elk Rapids, Michigan. “Unsalted,” in this case, refers to Lake Michigan, the freshwater Great Lake that feels as big as an ocean and looks as brilliantly blue as the Mediterranean. Its vastness gives Michigan the bragging rights of having the most freshwater shoreline in the US.

The lake may be unsalted, but this region of the Midwest is anything but bland. Among Northern Michigan’s breadth of experiences, you can explore quaint towns with vibrant farmers’ markets and great vintage shopping; See rolling farmland, cherry orchards, and nature preserves; Spend the day at an expansive golden sand beach right in town; Hike through dramatic forests; Bike along lakefront trails, and other outdoor activities galore. Toss in its impressive drinks and dining scene, and thoughtful new hotels inspired by local craftsmanship, and, well, you could say Northern Michigan is “having a moment.”  But it’s not making a lot of noise about it. That would be counter to what the place is all about. 

Northern Michigan’s nostalgia-tinged, American summers dare you to believe that easy living, undivided communities and countries, and courtesy still exist. What sets it apart even more is how under the radar it feels and how laid back. The pace and the attitude feel different. There’s none of the kind of status anxiety that you find in places like the Hamptons, Muskoka, or Prince Edward County, the kind that makes a vacation as stressful as real life. Dress codes in Northern Michigan are basically: clothes.

This article might contain affiliate links. Read the disclaimer about affiliate links & PR gifting here. 
This hotel stay was hosted by Dexter Hotel, which did not review or approve this story.

Traverse City Horse Show

This vibe carries over even to events that are stereotypically elitist. Traverse City, the biggest town in the region, is home to the Traverse City Horse Show,  a world-class event that runs throughout the summer and fall. For 13 weeks, Olympic and world champion riders descend on Traverse City to compete in classes for multi-million dollar purses. But, in true unpretentious Northern Michigan style, they are taking the stuffiness and intimidation out of that traditionally snooty sport. “We want it to be the fun horse show,” organisers will tell you. For the public, there are free ticketing days that include prime viewing in Adirondack chairs right up against the course, and courses designed for little kids to jump over. The grounds, set against dramatic wooded bluffs, are a great place to come for a drink: Included with your glass of rosé is a chance to see world champions such as top 10 equestrian Kent Farrington or  Canadian  Olympian Erynn  Ballard. 

For the athletes, the location is certainly a draw. And they take advantage of all that is at their fingertips when they are not riding. It’s only a very short drive to Old Mission’s and Leelanau Peninsula’s vineyards, crafted spirits at Ethanology distillery, and charming wine and cheese tastings at places like Bos, a day by the water at spectacular Torch Lake, or to quaint towns like Glen Arbor, Elk Rapids, Charlevoix, Harbors Springs, and Northport. There’s the summertime Interlochen Arts Festival, which draws performers like Gladys Knight and Elvis Costello.

Midwest modern cuisine scene

“If you can get a table”  seems to be the opening line to every conversation about dining out in this corner of Northern Michigan, these days. The region’s exciting Midwest modern cuisine scene comprises organic farm-to-table restaurants, cheesemakers,  breweries and wineries. Modern Bird and its Michelin-restaurant trained chefs-owners Andy Elliott and Emily Stewart, Farm Club, which comprises a restaurant, brewery, bakery, and working farm, The Little Fleet, a lively outdoor space built around local food trucks, and music,  or the hyper-local menu at  The Cooks’ House all in  Traverse City, The Mill Cafe in Glen Arbor, or Masala Magic in Elk Rapids are among those on foodie radars.  

Thoughtful hospitality & Unique hotels

A new generation of thoughtful hospitality projects are also helping shape Northern Michigan summers. Michelin Guide-recommended Otis Hotel in Harbor Springs was a derelict roadside motel that’s been given new life as a striking contemporary design destination, filled with curated vintage furniture, art, and collectable design pieces. It looks like the kind of place you travel to Palm Springs to stay at. The mid-century modern-inspired Dexter in Elk Rapids brings city-level quality in design, comfort and food and beverage to a beautiful outdoorsy setting. Both these properties are run by the creative directors of the luxury Detroit lifestyle brand Shinola, and both celebrate Michigan makers and the state’s legacy of design and craftsmanship.

The Dexter’s interior features vintage furnishings sourced from Pernette’s in Northport, lighting from Traverse City-based Britten, and cabinetry, including the hotel’s statement bar, is by Wolf Wood out of Grand Rapids. Under executive chef John Korycki, Noble’s about-to-launch menu will be based on seasonally driven shared plates- Mediterranean-inspired in their use of bright, fresh flavours. Both locals and guests use the lounge area as a common space to enjoy creative cocktails and views over the lake.

In the morning, guests head out into the sunshine for the day’s adventures full of enthusiasm and excitement but not without first joining the queue at Michigander Bakery for an array of artisanal doughnuts and coffee.

Noble Bar, Dexter Hotel, images courtesy of the property.

Among activities not to miss is a trip to Sleeping Bear Sand Dunes and its enormous dunes and bluffs that tower above the lake. Good Morning America once named it the most beautiful place in America.  Take note of the sign at the top of the bluffs:  “Down is Optional”. This is a 450-foot, 45-degree angle sandhill and even hardened hikers find the two steps forward,  one step back hike back up in the sand challenging. Enough people have had to resort to helicopter rescues that the operation now charges $3000 for an airlift. Most people settle for the breathtaking view from the top. Those that have ventured down and into the lake for a swim look like tiny little ducks from above. 

The region has a lot of stories to tell. But it never shouts to be heard. Its unhurried, unpretentious vibe feels like just what we need right now.

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Why location matters

Riviera Maya is not one town, but a strip that runs from roughly Puerto Morelos all the way down to Punta Allen. The largest nearby city is Cancun (and the nearest big airport), whereas Playa del Carmen and Tulum are the two most well-known resort towns within the strip. However, beyond the resorts, Riviera Maya is home to a range of amazing attractions.

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Cenotes

The region houses uniquely beautiful cenotes, which are natural limestone sinkholes with crystal-clear freshwater pools. Over the years, divers have mapped connected cave systems underground, stretching for huge distances, finding the ones that are easy to visit for tourists with the right infrastructure in place. 

Near Tulum, alone, there are dozens of cenotes you may visit, including the Gran Cenote, Mayan Blue, Calavera, Caracol and Santa Cruz Tulum, just to name a few. Each of these has clear, turquoise water, while some also have fish and turtles, and most don’t require wetsuits.

Mayan ruins

For those interested in history, the ruins in Riviera Maya are truly fascinating. At the Parque Nacional Tulum, you will find one of the most photogenic archaeological sites anywhere, with ancient ruins sitting on a cliff over the Caribbean.

Continuing north towards Ciudad Chemuyil, you’ll also reach the Archaeological Site of Xel-Há, featuring a former Maya port, ruins, temples and two freshwater pools. The park is also filled with exotic wildlife, such as iguanas and native birds.

If you’re willing to drive a bit further inland, then the Mayan city of Coba is your go-to. Visit the pyramid ruins, where you can climb Nohoch Mul, the area’s highest pyramid. After which, you can relax at one of the two large lakes: Laguna Coba or Laguna Macanxoc. 

Activities

Beyond nature and historic attractions, Riviera Maya will pleasantly surprise you with the sheer amount of activities. For families, the Xplor Park jungle adventure park near Playa del Carmen is the perfect fun-filled day out. You can explore the underground rivers, try your hand at rafting and amphibious vehicles, and get an adrenaline rush on the zip lines and waterslides. 

If you want to explore the water world, Cancun is the place to be, with the Aquaworld adventure sports centre, Interactive Aquarium and Dolphin Connection Mx. Besides, there are endless options for water sports along the coastline, including snorkelling, speedboats, scuba diving, jet skiing, and surfing.

Picking a well-located hotel

So, with all of that dotted along the strip, how do you choose the right location for a hotel? There are plenty of hotels and resorts in Playa del Carmen or Tulum, placing you close to the towns’ attractions and nightlife, but it’s also some of the busiest places in the region. Meanwhile, staying too far away from everything will make the day trips much longer.

The best strategy is to look at hotels near Riviera Maya, ideally in an area with a good selection of amenities, but still giving you that relaxed holiday experience. For example, the town of Puerto Morelos sits at an excellent coastal location, in between Cancun and Playa del Carmen. It’s much less busy than the larger towns and has its own local restaurants and beaches. Properties like Ocean Coral & Turquesa, Ocean Maya Royale, and Oceans Riviera Paradise are well positioned in this stretch, offering all-inclusive packages that make it easy to balance resort comfort with day trips across the region.

It’s also worth checking whether a hotel runs excursions to the major attractions, like Coba or Gran Cenote. While you can book tours separately, having a hotel provide you with trusted and pre-planned options takes the worry out of your holiday.

Smarter holiday decisions

Many people tend to book their hotels based on the photos and hope to figure out the rest once they land. But, that often means spending a lot more of their holiday time stuck in the hotel or in a tour van. So, look at the location first and only then pick the prettiest pool and best facilities. 

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The rooms at the top offer a gasp-worthy view through picture windows, a floor-to-ceiling screensaver complete with ASMR storm sounds if you visit during the rainy season. The brief Grenadian sunset rolls in from the South-West, painting the sky Apperol orange, a nightly performance many choose to enjoy from the beach (or the beach bar).

The resort was built in the 1970s but has seen a few ownership changes and undergone a number of major renovations. The most recent updates brought a more subtle, Mediterranean look and feel to the space, with blue tiles and mixed pastels. The property continues to the beach with an allée path cutting through the grand lawn, lit up with torches at night. From this vantage point, you can see the hotel’s terracotta roofs cascading down the hill between the tropical greenery, a postcard view.

This article might contain affiliate links. Read the disclaimer about affiliate links & PR gifting here. 
This hotel stay was hosted by the Grenada Tourism Authority, which did not review or approve this story.
All images by Kateryna Topol.

Beach and Savvy beach cabana restaurant at Mount Cinnamon, Grenada.

Flying Fish restaurant at Mount Cinnamon, Grenada.

The vibe & Shared spaces 

The rooms are spread out across the property, creating a sense of privacy at each level of the resort. The restaurant and pool are located on the street level. Past the desk, my eye is immediately drawn to the tiled pool with a petite island in the centre, accented by a flower wall with a small waterfall. A few tables are nested at the top in front of the bar. To the left is a sitting area with a grand piano and the Flying Fish restaurant. The restaurant’s garden terrace, mostly surrounded by tropical plants, frames a sneak peek of the sea view.

Tucked away in the corner by the pool is a small retail shop showcasing a curated collection of goods by local producers – clothing, skincare, jewellery, and of course, spices. “The plan is to also serve coffee in here soon,” assistant general manager Laura Mutti shared. During the day, this space is quiet, most people wander down to the beach. The grand lawn is not all decorative, much of it is used for outdoor games – volleyball, shuffleboard, cornhole, croquet, ping pong – lots to choose from. For the more serious wellness and fitness guests, Mount Cinnamon has a fairly spacious gym and a large tennis court.

All beaches in Grenada are public, but even looking at the long stretch of Grand Anse Beach, it does not look crowded. Hotel staff set up sunbeds and umbrellas as needed, keeping the space clear of clutter. Folks spend entire days on the beach, sunbathing, napping, reading, and searching for squid families out in the sea with a snorkel.

Inside the Suite

There is a total of 36 rooms at Mount Cinnamon, some are suites, some are villas. All accomodations, surrounded by tropical gardens, have a veranda and a covered porch, sitting rooms, and all necessary amenities and toiletries. Nightly turndown service and daily breakfast are included in all room rates.

The entry-level room is the new one-bedroom Cinnamon suite. This spacious room has a full closet, a large bathroom with a shower, a scenic balcony, and a seating area with a sofa. Hacienda suites are 1,000+ sq ft with seperate living room, bedroom, and kitchen area with a full-size Smeg fridge. This room, and all rooms above it, have an on-suite washer-dryer; you can literally make this your home for an extended period of time.

For bigger groups, Mount Cinnamon offers Luxury villas (2-8 guests), a Poolside Two-bedroom Garden suite (4 guests), and the ultimate Caribbean luxury, Cinnamon Heights villa. This 6,000 sq ft villa accommodates 8 guests, has two sea-view terraces, multiple rooms and bathrooms, a private pool, an outdoor jacuzzi tub, and an indoor garage.

Window view from the Cinnamon Suite, Mount Cinnamon Beach & Wellness Resort.

One of the Hacienda suites, Mount Cinnamon, each room has a slightly different layout and decor.

Dinning & Entertainment

The hotel has a sustainable private garden growing herbs and vegetables for the kitchen. The garden initiative is three years old and was one of the major drivers for the hotel’s Green Globe Certification. Cared for by groundskeeper Mr Lincoln, this mini farm grows salad greens, peppers, vegetables, fruits, and a rich selection of herbs.

The menus are an inspired mix of traditional Caribbean and West Indian fare. Breakfast and dinner are served at the Flying Fish restaurant, located on the street level of the property. Starting the day with a fresh breakfast, surrounded by a tropical garden, is a dream come true. Lunch and some dinners are served at the beach cabana, Savvy. Though a casual spot during the day, in the evening, Savyy turns into a hotspot for guests and locals alike, often dressed up for the meal.

Weekly events include an afternoon DJ session, complimentary sunset and morning yoga, bonfire beach dinner, taco and tapas themed dinner, and weekly social hour at the pool bar. Guests can also opt for private experiences like rum tastings, chef-guided lunch demos, and coursed chef tasting dinner.

Mount Cinnamon groundskeeper Mr Lincoln giving a tour of the resort’s vegetable and herb garden.

What to do nearby

Many of the island activities can be accessed directly from the resort or the beach. The Mount Cinnamon team can assist you with non-motorised spots, like kayaking and paddleboarding, or book you in for a diving lesson. The resort is also conveniently located for day excursions. Here are a few to consider.

Book direct on mountcinnamon.com to take advantage of special offers, compare rates to your favourite travel site: Expedia | TripAdvisor | Hotels.com | Booking.com

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Mumbai, India, is a polarising, electric masterpiece—a city you either hate or love, but can never ignore. The first time I found myself here, I didn’t like it. I didn’t like the sticky July heat, I didn’t like the traffic, and I didn’t understand why just being here was reason enough for glee. I didn’t understand the fuss. I thought perhaps, at heart, my being a small-town girl had something to do with it. It has taken a husband from Mumbai and many unavoidable visits to truly decode it. Today, I see it for what it is: an undeniably brave, intelligent, and fiercely fast metropolis, yes, but one that doesn’t demand any conformity. There is a genuine warmth here, endless room for discovery, and the freedom to simply be yourself. Follow me on this part love letter and part guide to Mumbai.

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What to see: Coastal highways, gothic spires & Pavement sentinels 

To truly see Mumbai is to watch its architectural centuries from the back seat of a vintage kaali-peeli taxi—the iconic black and yellow cab. My journey begins as we glide onto the cable-stayed Bandra-Worli Sea Link, skimming across Mahim Bay before transitioning onto the sweeping new coastal road. Plunging into undersea tunnels beneath Malabar Hill, we emerge onto Marine Drive, tracing a seamless southward direction into the city’s old British heart. Driving deeper into the Fort district and around Flora Fountain, the streets turn theatrical with dramatic Victorian Gothic and Art Deco structures. The crowning jewel is Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus—a breathtaking cathedral of commerce defined by its majestic Gothic spires reaching into the sky. 

Cutting eastward, the journey reaches its architectural crescendo at the sea, where we cruise past the grand arches of the Gateway of India and the neighbouring Taj Mahal Palace hotel. Yet, looking past the sheer magnitude of this city, the exuberance of a simple taxi ride truly transports me to its centre. Looking up at these historic marvels, I realise how much has been lost to time. But as the heavy tropical heat drops and night takes over, the scene shifts. The sleepy street cats of Mumbai, who spent the afternoon lounging perfectly still on sun-baked stone ledges, are now wide awake. Their bright eyes glaze in the dark, and I secretly believe they guard this historic city—our pavement sentinels, watching silently over Mumbai’s relentless, beautiful chaos.

Where to eat: From morning marigolds to iconic Parsi cafes & Historic bars

Mumbai’s culinary landscape can create a sensory punctuation, but to me, it shifts seamlessly from traditional morning rituals to modern flavours. The journey begins before the city fully wakes. While vendors begin setting up at 4:00 AM, we arrive by 5:00 AM at the relentless Dadar Flower Market. My father-in-law and my daughter join me for a fun day. Wading through the labyrinth of damp lanes, we watch vendors toss mountains of vibrant orange marigolds alongside pastel roses, velvety red lotuses, and fragrant white mogra (jasmine), while a nearby knife sharpener hones his blades. Just past the street sellers, wholesale stalls reveal Mumbai’s broader trade in premium blooms, stacked with imported Thai orchids, vibrant anthuriums, delicate lisianthus, structural birds of paradise, and elegant lilies. 

Along the pavement, we pick up a handful of crisp, local white jamun (plums) from a fruit vendor—a refreshing, pale-pink luxury perfectly in season. The fragrant morning rush stirs an appetite, leading us straight into the neighbouring Matunga area to eat breakfast together. At the legendary Café Madras, we join the shared-table crunch of early risers, washing down impossibly fluffy idlis (rice cakes) and savoury upma (semolina porridge) with steel tumblers of frothy, chicory-laced filter coffee while my father-in-law shares stories of a 70s Mumbai.

For a design and caffeine reset, we later head to Bandra, slipping into Boojee Cafe to sip a hot latte alongside a grilled cottage cheese sandwich slathered in fiery theecha chutney—a brilliant, modern homage to local Maharashtrian spice. 

By afternoon, our trajectory bends toward heritage, highlighting Mumbai’s classic Parsi dining scene. The Parsis—a Zoroastrian community that migrated to India from Persia centuries ago—profoundly shaped the city’s food culture through their welcoming cafes. At Britannia & Co., housed within the grand, Renaissance-style stone facades of Ballard Estate, we sit beneath whirring vintage ceiling fans to devour their iconic, tart-sweet berry pulao (sweet-and-sour rice dish). We pair the rice with comforting dhansak (curry) and crispy veg pattice, scooped up with soft pieces of bread. To drink, we pop open bottles of Pallonji cream soda, a sweet, fizzy Parsi beverage staple, before finishing the feast with a rich slab of lagan nu custard (traditional Parsi wedding dessert). As the evening cools and the sea breeze rolls into Colaba, our final stop is Cafe Mondegar. Under its irreverent, retro murals, we find the ultimate urban antidote: a comforting plate of pasta, a cold beer for me, and a front-row seat to the chaotic theatre of the Mumbai night. For a midnight treat, we pre-order a moist chocolate walnut brownie by unconventional baker Tushar Toprani of 1401 Bakery.

Left: Dosa and side dishes, image by Alaap D. Centre: Cafe Mondegar, image by Rushikesh Patil. Right: Theecha sandwich from Boojee Cafe, image by Nupur Singh.

Where to shop: From high-end artisanal craft to pavement alleys 

When shopping in Mumbai, you can make it your own cinema production, transitioning from high-ceilinged sanctuaries to the wonderful wild theatre of the streets. Step off the busy pavements directly into Swadesh at Churchgate—a magnificent, experiential retail flagship housed inside the historic Art Deco Eros Cinema building, which showcases the pinnacle of Indian craftsmanship. Here, under pristine gallery lighting, run your hands over intricate handloom textiles, delicate rosewood woodwork, masterful hand-carved marble inlay decor, and timeless, heritage-inspired jewels. 

Plunge back into the sunlight and the roaring street-side energy. Around the grand arcades of Flora Fountain, legendary book carts form towering pavement labyrinths of ink and paper. If you don’t find your literary treasure there, a quick trip up to the pavement book displays at Matunga East reveals even more hidden, second-hand gems. For a complete sensory shift, flag down a taxi to Colaba Causeway. This bustling strip is the ultimate street bazaar, crammed with stalls showcasing heavy silver, oxidised jewellery, eclectic trinkets, and rows of brilliant, quirky street magic tricks and souvenirs. Street shopping here means engaging in a time-honoured, witty dance of negotiation to curate your own chest of treasures.

Your personal checklist should weave together the absolute best of both worlds: high-craft investments from Swadesh like exquisite pattu (silk) weaves, Chikankari fabrics, handmade silk shawls, hand-carved marble coasters, bone-inlay trinket boxes, and heritage-inspired jewellery pieces. Pavement paperbacks consisting of rare, out-of-print classic novels or vintage history books fished from the stacks at Flora Fountain or Matunga East; and kitsch souvenirs from Colaba Causeway, including chased silver earrings, thick oxidised cuffs, vintage-style brass trinkets, neon-bright smartphone cases, and quirky beaded bags.

Left: Flora Fountain, Mumbai, image by Ayush Kamath. Right: Gateway Of India, image by Deeya Rustum.

Last hurrah: Way to the airport 

Before heading to the terminal for our flight home, we make one final, essential suburban pilgrimage to Radhe Krishna in Vile Parle. Because Vile Parle sits right next to the airport, we purposely kept this delicious stop for the very end of our journey. Here we order a legendary plate of richly spiced pav bhaji (spicy vegetable curry) doused in Amul butter and scooped up with warm, pillow-soft buttery pav. Beside it sits a golden, crisp masala dosa, a completely separate masterpiece that arrives with cool coconut chutney, a fiery spicy tomato chutney, and a bowl of steaming sambar goodness (lentil-based vegetable curry). Our journey concludes seamlessly near the airport at the Courtyard by Marriott Mumbai International Airport, where I slip away into the serene sanctuary of Ode Spa. Succumbing to a deeply restorative 45-minute full body massage followed by a relaxing bath, the frantic rhythm and beautiful chaos of the streets dissolve completely. I step out entirely reset, smelling of cedarwood and sandalwood, already sketching our next trip back in my mind before boarding the flight home.

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