Unlike a traditional walking tour, FTB tours are self-guided. Created by two food-loving friends, Emily and Michelle, the company aims to facilitate the real taste of Mallorca “without the research, the hassle, or the tourist traps”. 

Emily and Michelle spent years exploring the culinary scene, getting to know chefs, and building up connections. The current offerings are Wine & Dine and Brunch & Ride (on the e-scooter). The concept is simple: Emily and Michelle plan your itinerary and make timed reservations in the city’s best restaurants. Each visit includes a food and beverage pairing, showcasing the island’s true culinary essence as local chefs envision it. Each experience comes with a guided tour, accessible through a web app, with a clear map. A selection of cultural points of interest with historic annotations are noted along the way. 

The tour is incomparable to the traditional walking food tour, not only because it is self-guided, but mostly because it takes you to new and elevated restaurants, offering a unique experience for each visit. 

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This experience was hosted by Food Tours Balearics, who did not review or approve this story.

Vermuteria La Rosa: Russian potato salad with anchovies, served with an Iberian ham croquette and blue cheese, a spinach croquette, and house-made vermouth. Images by Kateryna Topol.

Decision-making behind the scenes

Emily and Michelle have built a network of restaurant partners and keep a close eye on all new openings in the city. “When a new spot opens, we’re usually among the first to try it and see if it fits our standards,” Michelle added. The duo try every dish with the restaurant’s chef, who might even create a custom dish for the visit. The dishes chosen typically reflect that restaurant’s speciality, “if a place is famous for its meat, we won’t serve dessert there”.

“We aim to start the tour with lighter fish or vegetarian dishes, have a more filling meat dish in the middle, and finish with dessert,” Michelle shared. The order of the restaurants is based on their capacity to receive guests that specific evening and the logistics of getting easily from one place to another. Naturally, this means that today’s tour might not be the same as the tour tomorrow.

When selecting restaurant partners, Emily and Michelle look for three key qualities: excellent and welcoming service, willingness to share the story behind the palace and the dish, and the quality of food. “We’re not doing a standard tapas tour, so the food needs to be creative, high quality, and part of a more gourmet experience,” Michelle stressed.

The points of interest stops are chosen based on the restaurant route, “Palma is full of stories, so there’s something interesting to mention around every corner”.

The Wine & Dine Tour of Palma Old Town

The Wine & Dine Tour of Palma Old Town took us away from the tourist centre and into the neighbourhoods. Our tour started at La Rosa Vermutería, steps away from Plaça del Mercat. La Rosa is a vermouth taberna with an old-fashioned vibe, framed with subway-tiled walls and curved brick arches. The walls are stacked with preserves, drying vegetables, and cured meat in that uniquely odd manner where food becomes interior decor. On today’s menu is a Russian potato salad with anchovies, served with an Iberian ham croquette and blue cheese, and a spinach croquette for contrast. House-made red vermouth over ice is served as a beverage pairing. 

Further away from the centre, past La Misericòrdia, we find L’ànima Restaurant in an airy plaza. It is still early in the day, so at first, the co-owner Adrià Salas Rotger is able to give us his complete attention, recommending wine (Els Vinyerons Pregadéu Rosé) and sharing insights about the business. On the menu are roasted lettuce hearts with escalivada and falafel. Spicy olive olives hit the table first with the wine, in case we got there a little peckish.

The next stop takes us to Palma’s brand new 5-star hotel Concepció by Nobis, a Michelin guide hotel with a beautiful restaurant, Xalest. Led by an award-winning chef, Xema Álvarez, Xalest offers a sharing menu of tapas, pintxos, appetisers, and entreés to showcase not only Mallorcan food by the Spanish way of dining. An artfully plated pork cheek, served on a vegetable puree, is paired with a generous glass of Spanish red wine, neatly wrapping up the savoury portion of this experience. To complete the meal, we head to El Neo for a sweet treat, taking us back closer to the city centre.

Xalest: Pork cheek served on a vegetable puree. Images by Kateryna Topol.

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We met Joan from Nofrills Excursions Mallorca in the plaza near the Royal Palace of La Almudaina, surrounded by street vendors and caricature artists seated in the palm tree shade. Equipped with a bottomless backpack (water? napkin? I got you), Joan handed each of us a map of the route for the Foodie tour in Palma de Mallorca. Having taken a brief look at the map, everyone promptly tucked it away in their pocket and proceeded to blindly follow the orange t-shirt through sunny Palma.

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This experience was hosted by Nofrills Excursions Mallorca, who did not review or approve this story.

Royal Palace of La Almudaina, Palma de Mallorca. All images by Kateryna Topol.

Joan has been hosting food tours for ten years, “last year, I took 2,000 people on a tour,” he proudly announced. Throughout the day, he swiftly switched between English and Spanish, occasionally translating various narratives to German for a family in the group. Mallorca uses three languages: Spanish (Castilian), Catalan, and Mallorquí (local Catalan dialect), but most people speak at least some English. With direct flights from most of the UK, this part of Spain has been a popular tourism destination for decades, attracting hospitality workers from around the world. This part of Spain is where I’ve spoken the least Spanish. 

Weaving through the city streets, Joan shared various pieces of historic knowledge, occasionally gathering us in a tight circle to share a story. “See this building,” he points our attention to Can Forteza Rey, “it looks like an Antoni Gaudí building, doesn’t it? It is actually the work of his student, Lluís Forteza Rey”. Gaudí’s influence is very prominent in Palma’s modernist architecture, so this was not the first architectural work of art we came across on this day.

Empanadas from Ca na Cati Pastisseria, Palma de Mallorca.

Having situated us by Palma City Hall, Joan ran across the street to bring us the special treat: Empanadas Mallorquinas. This round pastry, made with soft crumbly dough, encloses a delicious combination of jamón ibérico (Iberico ham) and a mix of vegetables in a perfectly rounded little pocket. The dish is typically served on the last day of Easter and requires an extensive amount of labour to produce, “altogether it takes eleven hours to make this,” Joan paused for effect. Ours came from Pastisseria Cort (Ca na Cati Pastisseria), “best empanadas in Palma,” he pointed at the corner shop.

We looped through Carrer de Sant Miquel pedestrian street multiple times, “watch your bags on this street,” Joan patted his backpack. The first sit-down portion of the tour took us to Omare, where the team greeted us by promptly pouring wine for the table, some of which they produce themselves. One by one, tapas plates began to hit the table: tortilla Española (Spanish egg omlet), croquetas de pollo (chicken croquettes), followed by octopus with potatoes. And for the grand finale, a charcuterie board with local cheeses, grapes, and jamón ibérico. Gasps of excitement echoed across the table at the sight of the sharing plate. 

“Bon profit!” he held up his wine glass, “that’s how you say bon appétit in Catalan”.

For the next half hour, we were instructed to explore Mercat de l’Olivar, solo. My initial confusion dissolved as soon as my eyes met the open market. Fresh produce stalls, cheese vendors, multiple ibérico ham counters with rows and rows of ham hanging from the ceiling. All the brightly lit up pintxos stations, and quick service bars were calling my name. Some tour attendees chose to shop. Others, having quickly toured the market, found a spot between the locals to enjoy a quick glass of sparkling wine and absorb the vibes of the casual afternoon market magic. The free time was well justified. 

Looping back around and into a narrow alleyway, we made our way to Orxateria I Xocolateria Ca’n Joan de s’Aigo for a sweet surprise. This intricately decorated cafe has a rich local history, both cultural and culinary, but that bit, you will have to hear from Joan. On the menu as a parting sweet note is ensaïmada – a light, sugared pastry made with reduced lard from ibérico. Yes, it sounds weird, but it is absolutely delicious. The pastry is accompanied by a cold glass of “almond milk ice,” something you can only get here, in this shop.

Like most food tour groups, we all got to know each other a little better. Joan’s new family portrait was taken shortly after, under the one-thousand-year-old olive tree in Olivera de Cort. 

Vegetables at Mercat de l’Olivar on each side and the thousand-year-old-olive tree at the centre.

The post Authentic food only, with NoFrills Foodie tour in Palma de Mallorca appeared first on Paths to Travel.

The culinary diversity of the country is driven by its neighbours (Belgium, France and Germany) and the impressive cultural diversity created through immigration. There are over 160 nationalities living in the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, and so naturally, the culinary influences are plenty.

Historically, however, Luxembourgish cuisine has heavy French and German influences leaning into casual meals and intricate baked goods. Our first stop on the 3-hour Food Tour: Uncover the Tastes of Luxembourg is Pâtisserie Hoffmann. This traditional bakery chain is a city staple offering a wide range of baked goods and desserts. We are here for a bite of Rieslingspaschtéit, a classic flaky pastry filled with Riesling (wine) jelly and pâté invented by Pierre Kaempff in 1928. A small circular opening at the top serves as a sneak peek for your first bite. Today in certain bakeries you will also find tourte au Pinot Noir made with local Pinot Noir, and you guessed it, pâté.

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This experience was hosted by Sightseeing Luxembourg, who did not review or approve this story.

Rieslingspaschtéit served with a side salad and as a whole at Pâtisserie Hoffmann.
Below: Crémant and cured ham at Brasserie Guillaume. All images by Kateryna Topol.

A walk through the city takes us to another local staple, Brasserie Guillaume. The restaurant specialises in seafood, but we sit down for a taste of Éisleker ham, in-house slow-cured local ham. Served with a highly coveted glass of the Alice Hartmann crémant (or riesling) and fresh bread, the ham is surprisingly tender and flavourful with the freshness you can only get with in-house cured meats. Luxembourgish love Crémant and produce plenty of it in the country.

Pivoting through the city streets, Debbie speaks about local culture, history, culinary influences, and shares shopping suggestions. Kaempff-Kohler, another popular chain operated by the descendants of the Rieslingspaschtéit inventor, is our next stop. These bakery and shop shelves are filled with fresh and packaged sweets, jarred pâtés and terrines, bottled soups, and caviar. Kaempff-Kohler is a great spot for a seated lunch break or takeaway, and the City Centre location has a lovely patio ideal for people watching. Our culinary discovery includes a bite of a delicate ham and egg quiche.

Above: Quiche at Kaempff-Kohler, below: Chocolats Genaveh Luxembourg.

For the sweet break, we duck into Chocolats Genaveh Luxembourg, a family-owned and operated chocolate shop. The friendly staff bring out a tray of hot chocolate cup and chocolate pairing, all three decadently delicious and rich.

Luxembourgish cherish their lunch time, in fact, lunch is the biggest meal of the day. Ënnert de Steiler is a beloved traditional lunch spot for home-cooked hearty meals. It is the oldest bar in the city, spread across multiple floors. On our lunch menu are Kniddelen, local speciality dumplings paired with a sausage. These dense, loosely formed dumplings are served in a bacon cream sauce offset by the Wäinzoossiss (Luxembourgish sausage) in mustard sauce. The dish might not be the most attractive to the eye but it is packed with flavour.

Sufficiently satiated, we parted with Debbie, taking mental notes for many more places to visit and many more delicacies to try.

***

Book directly on sightseeing.lu or with Get Your Guide.

Kniddelen (dumplings) served with Wäinzoossiss (sausage) at the Ënnert de Steiler.
Below: Quiche at Kaempff-Kohler

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This article might contain affiliate links. Read the disclaimer about affiliate links & PR gifting here. 
This experience was hosted by The Tour Guy who did not review or approve this story. 

The Tour Guy is a tour aggregator company focused on unforgettable experiences hosted by passionate locals. The company partners with vetted tour operators in a wide range of countries offering up in one place for easy search. Our tour choice this time around was the Ultimate Lisbon Food & Wine Walking Tour, operated by Inside Lisbon. 

Rossio Square, located in the heart of the city, is the main meeting point for tours in Lisbon. Here, a friendly face in a blue t-shirt will greet you and sort participants into smaller groups. The maximum group size for this tour is 14, ours was smaller making for a more intimate experience. From here onward we follow Phillip, a knowledgeable local guide and one of the members of the selection committee (let’s call it that). Inside Lisbon team carefully chooses vendors they visit making sure that the food is authentically Portuguese and made ethically in-house by Portuguese people. 

This culinary adventure took us around the city centre in a wavy loop with six, mostly seated stops. As we walked along the busy streets Phillip shared insights about the local culinary scene, pointing out the authentic stops from the touristy traps, and sprinkling in inside jokes, fun facts, and local idioms.

The whole trinity of Portuguese cuisine is olive oil, garlic, and bay leaves.

~ Phillip, Inside Lisbon Tours

“This is one of the two best Bifanas in the city,” he stopped in front of the Solar da Madalena’s windows. This typical fast food sandwich is made with slow simmered beef served on a fluffy bun. The best Bifanas are juicy and tender, naturally requiring quite a few napkins to stop the juice from running down your elbows. Later that week I purchased one from a food truck at a conference centre, it was dry and chewy, sending me down a memory lane to this first bite. 

With the early moments of twilight setting in our group gathered on a terrace for Port and cheese. Portugal is the biggest wine consumer per capita. According to the Decanter, in 2023 Portugal consumed 61.7 litres of wine per person. That’s roughly 82 bottles of wine per person. Here wine is like holly water, you can and should have a glass of red at lunch. Our pairing includes a traditional cheese (sheep/goat) and a glass of 5-year-old Tawny Port from Ferreira Porto, a family-operated wine house founded by Dona Antónia in the 19th century. A bottle of it travelled for another three weeks through Europe with me to find its rightful place in my minibar.

Lisbon is one of those places where you can dine well for €30 and then spend six times as much for cocktails and appetizers around the corner. The conversations naturally touched upon the most authentic traditional places, those where the blue-collar folks eat, the bodegas (tavern). Tendinha Tavern, back in Rossio Square, is one of the oldest in the city, and the only one to have survived the great fire. The sandwich board outside spotlights their current features: €3.50 for a glass of Vinho Verde, €2 for Bolinhos de Bacalhau (fishcakes), and €4 for a small beer. Much like the custard tarts fishcakes can be found everywhere and the cost of them will range from a euro to €7 if you get one in a fancy hotel. The price of the fishcake naturally does not reflect its quality. 

Here in Tendinha, the fishcakes are perfectly balanced (fish to potato ratio). Many other traditional Portuguese dishes can be seen on the menu behind the bar. Our group packed in at the back of the tiny tavern, admiring the green subway-tiled walls while Phillip explained how the fishcake was made, pouring the wine from behind the counter. “This place is cool, we’ll need to come back,” I thought to myself.

After a brief stop at the Ginjinha bar where we all tried this traditional cherry liqueur gleefully, our guide walked us along a busy restaurant strip to one of their new partners, Inhaca, to taste the Arroz de Marisco (fish rice). Settled at a long table we shared this traditional seafood dish family style, scooped table side from a steaming pot. With more Vinho Verde, of course.

The evening concluded cheerfully at another harvest table with, let’s call it a red wine nightcap. As we piled in around the table plates of olives, lupin beans, cheese, and other delicacies filled the space between the wine pitchers. The main course, however, is Chouriço (chorizo). Two plates of sausages in hand Phillip situated himself at the back of the room. In mere moments both plates were set on fire causing a wave of astonishment around the table. 

Glass after glass moving plates around the group we all became quick friends. Just one of the many ways food brings people together. 

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This article might contain affiliate links. Read the disclaimer about affiliate links & PR gifting here.
The experience was sponsored by Tinggly, which did not review or approve the story.

Your tour choices include a 4-course lunch or a 6-course dinner, both of which have an option to add a wine paring (extra charge). Knowing that our local restaurant wishlist (see a list here) was robust we opted for a lunch tour with a wine pairing.

The bus itself is quite impressive. Black and sleek on the outside the interior is set up with comfortable leather booths in dark colours. Upon entry, a host greets you and explains the tour’s inner workings. Each guest is given a digital pen that also works as a listening device. The “pen” is paired with the tour map, you simply tap on the stop and then hold it up to your ear to listen. Pretty cool.

The bus then smoothly cuts through the city traffic bringing you close to its best monuments and attractions. My favourite part was driving through the Tower Bridge. The traffic at this point gets pretty bad but with the stunning views from the bridge, this slowdown actually works to our benefit. 

The onboard menu is curated by various guest chefs and therefore changes. During our visit, we enjoyed a creative appetizer, rich ravioli, a modern take on the meat and potatoes main, and a delicious cold dessert.

* * *

Book this tour for yourself on bustronome.com, via GetYourGuide or gift it to someone with Tinggly, the gift has no expiry date so they can use it whenever they are ready! 

Luxury London bus tour with a gourmet lunch

Where to stay in London

Claridge’s Hotel, Mayfair
5-star

Beautiful historic hotel that was often visited by Her Majesty Queen Victoria.

The decor is stunning all around and these rooms will make you feel like royalty yourself. There are 8 (or even 9) restaurants and bars on the property and a very impressive wine cellar. There is of course, also an on-site spa. 

Book Claridge’s

The Henrietta Hotel
4-star

Another historic property (I suppose most of them are) with urban views and wonderful, subtly colourful decor. The rooms look stunning and comfortable, with velvet seating, accent walls, and metallic decor touches. The restaurant and bar take you on a “journey through iconic Italian gastronomy” and I’m always here for Italian, even if in London. 

Book The Henrietta Hotel

The Pilgrm Hotel
3-star

This is a beautiful boutique hotel, restaurant, and bar situated within walking distance from walk to Hyde Park. You will admire winding antique staircases and beautiful decor. Each room is unique, offers slow travel comfort, and has a lovely view of London. The on-site restaurant and bar have a beautiful terrace, casual decor, and an exciting menu.

Book The Pilgrm Hotel

All hotel images are courtesy of the properties.

The post See London on a panoramic gourmet food bus appeared first on Paths to Travel.

We are all strangers right now, masked, hesitant, and a little afraid. There is something about coming out into society after 18 months of isolation that makes us all a little jumpy and somewhat feral. But that all will change in a couple of hours.

After a brief introduction and a small history lesson on the spiral development of Parisian neighbourhoods (if you follow the numbers, you’ll see a snail shell), the small bits of history became an ongoing part of the tour but in a very unique way through culinary influences. Each country that invaded (or attempted to invade) France has introduced something new. Whether it be cheese or a cooking technique, many of these ‘gifts’ became staple dishes of France. Like, did you know that foie gras is originally Egyptian? It’s a fun story about fat flying ducks, but it’s a story you’ll have to hear from Stéphane, or me if you meet me in person and we share enough wine.

This article might contain affiliate links. Read the disclaimer about affiliate links & PR gifting here. 
The experience was gifted to me by Tinggly. 

Montmartre is a neighbourhood that was originally beyond the city wall. As such it was a neighbourhood of the people, where cultures mixed and everything was cheaper than in Paris ‘proper’. We went up the hill towards Sacré-Cœur Basilica and curved around it to the left starting our tour with freshly baked madeleines that our guide brought from his favourite bakery followed by a tasting stop at the Christophe Roussel macaron and chocolate shop. “French macarons are made with almond powder, unlike American which uses coconut,” pointed out Stéphane. Historic fun fact: macarons originally came from Persia. Down another colourful street, packed with cafes decorated with bushy flowers we stopped at the smallest Crêperie in Paris – La Crêperie Monami. Our guide spoke about the different flavors placing orders on our behalf and then ducked away to pick up fresh baguettes while we gleefully ate our warm crepes. 

Before heading to our final, secret spot, the group stopped by a Butcherie and a nearby cheese shop. The shop associate patiently walked us through the different types of cheeses, the craftsmanship of local cheesemakers, and various unique local flavours. Here artisanal craftsmanship is at the heart of everything. Any simplified mass production is frowned upon, even though it undoubtedly exists. If you have spent any leisurely time in Paris, you know you can always tell the locals by their shopping bags, packed with local goods from various stores, accentuated by pointy baguettes (if it’s not pointy, it’s not handmade, and that is also frowned upon). Now with 3 bags in hand – bread, cheese, meat – which we all took turns helping to carry, our group headed down an alleyway towards an undisclosed location for the last, and my favourite stop.

Slightly sweaty, a little tired, and undoubtedly hungry, we descended into a cellar. At the centre is a harvest table, wine and shopping bags placed on the side table, and various wine racks spread around the room – “damn, these folks are serious about wine,” I thought to myself. As we took turns washing our hands upstairs, Stéphane hustled, slicing the cheeses, arranging cold cuts, and opening wine bottles. Soon enough, we were all seated, quietly listening to the introductions and historical notes dotted with fun cultural remarks on how to properly eat baguettes (tear by hand in small pieces, never put the baguette upside down) and how we should never eat cheese with crackers (much like in kindergarten, we all had to repeat that statement 3 times).

Each mini-course was paired with wine: natural pairing is food and wine from the same region or alternatively, you can pair by intensity (light with light, heavy with heavy). We indulged in many flavourful and unique kinds of cheese, Burgundy and Bordeaux wines, dry sausages, cold cuts and pickles, ham with butter, and finished on a sweet note with 1st Cru of Cognac and chocolate eclairs (tip: what’s on the outside should also be on the inside). As time went on, crumbs and cheese rinds sprinkled around the table, empty bottles were cheerfully passed back to the host, and everyone in attendance lowered their defensive guards. The room got rowdier and louder, we were discussing the sharpness of the cheese, poking jokes at each other, and feeling like bad students for not paying attention to our foodie history lessons while remarking on individual likes and dislikes. 

Our experience lasted longer than the allotted time, but no one was even slightly peeved by it. By the end of ‘dinner’, we were all good friends, discussing travel plans and sharing tips, having a hard time separating, and if it wasn’t for the train mom and I needed to catch this party would’ve gone on till the end of the night. 

There are many different ways to experience a city and a culture, but this is certainly my favourite. Eating like a local, with a local, while learning customs and making friends is something that was missing from my life – everyone’s life at least in this group – for many months. It was a social gap, unfulfilled by sharp cheese and that feeling you get when a stranger becomes a person you’d like to hug. There is comfort and a wealth of experience that one could not possibly get in a shiny gift box of macarons, but after all, that is a difference between sharing and giving a souvenir – sharing is stories over meals, souvenirs are just magnets on the fridge.

* * *

Book the tour on secretfoodtours.com, sometimes there is a special offer for the drink upgrade.

The post In search of my Parisian foodie heart through a tour of Montmartre appeared first on Paths to Travel.

This article might contain affiliate links. Read the disclaimer about affiliate links & PR gifting here. 

Eating Europe is a passion project of Philadelphia-born Kenny Dunn. The company hosts walking food tours across Europe with a focus on unique neighbourhoods and cuisine. For this particular tour of Jordaan, our local guide has an unmatched passion for Amsterdam, a great deal of knowledge about the city, and the uniquely Dutch delicacies we are about to taste.

As we patiently wait for our hot beverages in the back of Café Papeneiland, Marjolein de Cleen, our guide, flips over to the map of Amsterdam, pointing out how Jordaan’s structure is significantly different from the rest of the city. Jordaan (pronounced “Yordan”) was built in the early 17th century as a neighbourhood for the poor working class and immigrants. Years later, in the late 20th century, a flock of artists, students, and young professionals moved in. The new residents reinforced Jordaan’s community bonds deeply rooted in historic events and the struggles of those who were here first.

Today Jordaan is one of the most famous neighbourhoods in the Netherlands, home to many new and historic cafes, cosy pubs, and boutique shops. Our meeting point, Café Papeneiland, is one of those historic spots. Located between two notable canals (Browersgracht and Prinsengracht), the sheer architecture of which attracts tourists and painters alike. “It’s a kind of place we call browned” Marjolein shares pointing out the old wood frame, traditional decor, and nicotine-stained ceilings. This is the kind of place where in the old days locals sat for hours sipping Jenever or cold beer from a nearby brewery.

Hot coffee and fresh mint tea in glass cups are being passed around the table promptly followed by apple pie. “We have a few stops ahead of us” Marjolein comments, “so these are smaller pieces” I can’t help but gasp looking at the generous portion with a dollop of fresh whipped cream on it. A Dutch apple pie has a thicker, more cake-like crust, filled with fresh apples seasoned with cinnamon. The apple stuffing is not as sweet as American pies so my objections to the rather large piece of it become promptly irrelevant as I scoop the last piece of the tasty goodness on the spoon before we head out.

As we walk along the canal turning into the narrow inner streets Marjolein fills the time with stories about Amsterdam, pointing out her favourite shops and the unique aspects of Dutch architecture. Due to the history of Jordaan some of the original buildings have been torn down and replaced with newer, more blocky structures merely pretending to match the history and resilience built into this neighborhood over the years. The conversation naturally pivots to food as we approach our next stop. JWO Lekkernijen is a traditional deli owned by Ongkie and Jan-Willem. Our group zipped up to the noses, perches up on the bench by the entrance waiting for our host to bring out the goods: young cheese made from raw milk (about 4 months old), old cheese (8 months or more), a flavoured cheese with anise, candied ginger, and fig almond bread – something sweet to eat with particularly dry old farmer cheeses. To properly taste the cheeses our guide advises we put the candied ginger on the cheese and eat them together, just like the Dutch.

Having fulfilled our cheese curiosities we are back on the street, minding the bikers. “Bike!” Marjolein shouts and we all scatter against the wall giving way to a speeding cyclist yet another time. Over the bridge the street opens on another corner shop, a fish-shaped logo spelling out “Catch” can be seen on the window and the hanging sign. “Is that where we’re going next?” I inquire in excitement. Marjolein nods with a smile.

As we enter the shop a display of fresh fish and mixed seafood greets us just before we walk up a few steps to the seating area. As usual, our host touches base with the staff arranging our tasting while we try to warm up our hands after walking in the cool rain. To speed up the process the shopkeeper brings us all a sampling of Jenever, a traditional juniper liqueur, to go with our first tasting course: fermented haring (herring) served with fresh-cut onions and pickles. A dish like this one is typically Dutch and has an acquired taste. The look of the fish immediately reminds me of the Ukrainian version of the dish, called “seledka,” also pickled and a bit saltier. “Not for me” a woman sitting across the table pushes away her napkin, but her disdain for the fish is to my advantage – it’s one of my favourite things to eat! The next dish is much more palatable for the whole group: kibbling, lightly battered, crispy golden chunks of white fish served with tartar sauce.

The next few streets take us into a local deli, Slagerij Louman-Jordaan, a tiny butcher shop serving “the taste of the Jordaan for over a hundred years,” their napkin proclaims, two blue-crowned blue pigs holding up the sign. Standing in a circle over a round wooden board we proceed to taste the freshly prepared meats: grilled sausage, grilled beef and pork with spices, ham, and dried sausage with fennel. The oddest and newest flavour, however, is the cold-smoked Ossenworst. Traditionally this is an ox sausage but here it is made from pure beef with spices imported from the East Indies, at first glance, it looks raw and on bite has a tartare-like texture but a very light, battery taste that you could spread on crispy bread.

Running a little behind we make our way over to Tom’s Bread & More for fresh stroopwafels, wafer-thin cookies sandwiched with caramel syrup. Here at Tom’s the stroopwafels are made in-house and served in a homey atmosphere along with sandwiches and warm paninis. I promptly stuff a box of cookies to take home into a bag and follow out on the street towards our last stop, Cafe ‘t Smalle. Formerly a liqueur store by the same name this is a charming small bar on Egelantiersgracht.

Taking a narrow winding staircase to the second-floor sitting area we spread out around the room on wooden chairs overlooking the bar. At ease with my jacket off and hands warm once again I sit back leaving room for the bar staff to set down a plate of tiny puffed pancakes called poffertjes. Generously dusted with powdered sugar these pancakes are a Dutch favourite, soft and chewy on the inside, perfectly shaped little saucers of sweet goodness. For a beverage pairing our hosts ask to choose a small beer or a glass of Jenever. One of our companions reaches out and pulls the small tulip glass towards him and we all gasp in shame as the top layer spills out of the glass on the table, but I make sure to drink mine properly, just like the Dutch.

How to get here

Jordaan is located in the heart of Amsterdam. You can walk there from Central Station, about 20 minutes, or take public transit. A variety of international airlines have frequent direct flights to Amsterdam. You can also easily take a train from a neighbouring country. See RailEurope for train options. In the past, I’ve been able to have printed tickets delivered to my home in Canada.

Where to stay

We stayed at The Hendrick’s Hotel, located a few canals over from Jordaan. Hendrick’s is a lovely modern boutique hotel with an incredibly accommodating staff.

Booking the tour

Eating Europe hosts tours in multiple cities across Europe. This tour, in particular, Jordaan Food Tour, can be booked online here.

The post Exploring Jordaan, the historic neighbourhood in Amsterdam appeared first on Paths to Travel.