Exiting the Queen Beatrix International Airport (AUA) in Oranjestad, you are immediately enveloped by heat, a humid average of 27°C that will stay with you until departure. The island is small. In under an hour, you can drive the country end-to-end. But despite its petite breadth, Aruba has layers of history and culture, formed by those who entered its shores on ships. Centuries of economic development carved the shoreline and shaped the island into the binary destination that it is now – a tropical paradise framed by deserted industrial structures.

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This trip was partially hosted by Amsterdam Manor Beach Resort who did not review or approve this story.
All images by Kateryna Topol.

Home in Aruba: Amsterdam Manor Beach Resort

Amsterdam Manor Beach Resort is set against the backdrop of one of Aruba’s most beautiful beaches, Eagle Beach. Neatly lined rows of yellow buildings with protruding windows shape a communal courtyard. A white picket fence frames the property rectangle into a dream dollhouse, plants and flowers accenting the yellow walls. Palmtrees, directional signs, and a bike route make it all feel like a small town with part-time locals strolling across the road, beachbags in hand. “This will do,” I jokingly think to myself, taking in the calm paradise views.

The resort is family-owned by the Dutch Van Schaijk family, who for 35+ years have been welcoming travellers and locals to their property with open arms. Over the years, the hotel grew by 23 rooms, always looking for opportunities to improve the guest experience. The rooms range from studios to one-bedroom suites and penthouses, and nearly all of them have at least a kitchenette. Here, hotel guests often become regulars, moving in for weeks at a time, stocking up their fridges, and making Aruba their seasonal family home. The resort team treats guests like family with wide smiles, ready to help with acitivites and dinners plans.

Current offer: Save 37% on a last-minute stay at Amsterdam Manor on Eagle Beach, and toast your arrival with complimentary welcome champagne. Book my March 25, 2026. Travel March 21-27, 2026. Reserve today | All available offers. 

One-bedroom suite at the Amsterdam Manor Beach Resort, Aruba.

Outdoor pool at the Amsterdam Manor Beach Resort, Aruba.

The context: Historic layers that make Aruba what it is 

The island was first occupied by Archaic people who arrived in canoes from the coast of South America thousands of years ago. By A.D. 900/1000, another group of Indigenous people, the Caquetios, settled on the island, building villages and cultivating crops. The Spanish came in the 15th century in search of precious metals and pearls. Having found none of those, they declared Aruba, Bonaire, and Curaçao (the ABC islands) as Islas Inútiles – the useless islands. So when they left, they took the people. 

The Dutch arrived later, in 1636, making Aruba a Caribbean naval base during their eighty-year war with Spain. Recognising the local communities, they recruited Caquetios as farmers, selling meat and produce to other islands. After a brief British invasion (1806–1816), the island was returned to the Dutch in accordance with the Anglo-Dutch Treaty, officially making it a part of the Netherlands Antilles much later, in 1945.

Those early years gave rise to the Aruba Industrial period with the opening of The Lago Oil and Transport and the Arend Petroleum Companies. These were major refineries processing crude oil, bringing prosperity to the island for decades. Until they closed in 1985.

All these chapters in Aruba’s history, in one way or another, are still present in its culture and architecture. As we move through the island, sit on its beaches, and drink its perfectly clean tap water, the history is all around us, most notably seen in the Dutch colonial architecture. 

Bushiribana Ruins, Aruba, remnants of the gold-mining era on the island.

Bites, meals & Libations: From casual happy hours to custom dining experiences  

Situated far enough from high-rise hotels (though within walking range), Amsterdam Manor enjoys uninterrupted sunset performances from every angle of the property, every night. Observing my third flawless sunset I began to wonder what Aruba’s red flags might be. Are there hurricanes? When does it get cold? It does not. The island sits outside the Caribbean hurricane belt, so its only real fault is the constant wind. So we dress up to dine on the beach, where the worst-case scenario is seawater washing over your feet.

Set along this pristine shoreline is Passions on the Beach, perhaps the most romantic restaurant on the island. Breakfast and lunch are served on the terrace, but dinner tables are placed directly on the sand. Dressed in our favourite summer attire and beach-friendly sandals, we take seats around the table, struck silent by the views. Elaborate cocktails and cold wine commence the meal, followed by luxurious seafood and steak dishes with a live saxophone setting the mood. This isn’t your typical Sunday dinner, proposals are made here at least once a month.

Blueberry lemonade and a quesadilla at Horizons Lounge, Amsterdam Manor Beach Resort, Aruba.

Back at the resort, guests gather for more casual meals at Horizons Lounge, overlooking the hotel pool and the sea from a short distance. In addition to daily service, the lounge also hosts manager cocktail parties with complimentary hors d’oeuvres, hosts all-you-can-eat fajita nights, and offers sushi service. Every stay can be tailored to your group with custom dining experiences like traditional Aruban dinners hosted on the penthouse terrace, cocktail and sushi-making classes, and custom beachside events. 

Seated in the gazebo or along the bar, we’d share secrets and laugh at each other’s travel experiences over colourful tropical drinks like the signature Fofoti and hibiscus margarita. And on another night, we gathered around the bar, tasting sake and local spirits at the sushi-making class, cheering on each other’s rolls, perfectly illuminated by the setting sun. 

Chef Eva demonstrating the art of a perfect sushi roll, and restaurant manager Maurice, sprinkling final finishes for the cheering bar crowd. 

Private dining experience set up on Eagle Beach, Amsterdam Manor Beach Resort, Aruba.

Eagle Beach: The easy life by the Caribbean Sea

Across the island, there are over 20 public beaches, with sand so soft to the touch it feels like sugar powder. All beaches in Aruba are public with mixed amenities from adjacent hotels, family-owned restaurants, and public palapas available to beachgoers. Eagle Beach serves as an extension to the Amsterdam Manor resort with a restaurant, sunbeds, and a heart-shaped swing adorned with flowers – yet another picture-perfect spot to “put a ring on it”. For us, however, this trip turned into a perfect ladies’ getaway – one I’d welcome again any day.

From sunrise to moonlight, people are at the beach, reading in the palapa shade, sauntering the shoreline, aimlessly floating out in the sea, or cruising the turquoise waters on a jet ski. Between culinary and island adventures, I took an afternoon off to relax on the beach, intermittently reading, napping, and taking dips in the warm water. One could argue, it is the best way to waste a day.  

Along the shore, mixed greenery sets a picturesque backdrop. Curvy Fofoti trees with twisted trunks formed by the persistent winds are perhaps the most noticeable. Indigenous to the island, the Fofoti are treated with respect, and the ones on Eagle Beach are looked after by the Amsterdam Manor staff. 

Beach shop and a Fofoti tree on Eagle Beach, coconut ice cream in the shell as a daytime treat.

Sightseeing in Aruba: Lighthouses, ruins, beaches and cultural breaks 

The most common way to explore the island is with a Jeep tour, so backpacks and totes in hand, we climbed up into our De Palm Tours ride. Navigating curvy roads along cactus fields and beaches, we found our way to the California Lighthouse, known as the Hudishibana. Perched on high seaside elevation, the lighthouse, built in 1910, offers a spectacular 360-degree view of the island.

The next stop takes us to Alto Vista Chapel, surrounded by a flat courtyard with a low stone fence, cacti growing scattered along the perimeter. Built by the Spanish missionaries in 1750, this Catholic parish is still functional today. The Chapel borders the Alto Vista trail, a scenic 3-kilometre loop overlooking the shoreline. 

As we drive around, I notice a pattern of elaborately decorated car snack shacks near each popular attraction. Some have a few shaded tables, while others simply offer grab-and-go snacks, fresh juices, and cold beers. I suddenly regret my hearty in-room breakfast, wanting to taste the local offerings at each stop.

De Palm Tours Jeep tour guide Richie at the California Lighthouse, Aruba.

Moving further into the island, we disembark at Bushiribana Ruins, built in 1872 by the Aruba Island Gold-mining Company Ltd.. During the gold boom, Aruba produced an equivalent of 3 million pounds of gold, but once all production came to a halt in 1916, the structures were vacated and left to weather with nature. The ruins sit atop a cliff, overlooking the rocky shoreline, showcasing Aruba’s complex volcanic foundation formed over 145 million years ago. 

Seeing that I was in Aruba, a friend mentioned a ghost town, stressing that it is something I should visit. My brief inquiries into the matter yielded no results; this ghost town seemed to be a myth. But as we traversed through this spectacular dry rock, listening to Richie’s stories, I came to realise that the aforementioned ghost town is San Nicolas, today known as the art capital of the Caribbean.

San Nicolas began as a lively entertainment neigbourhood for Dutch miners. With their departure, the city became a ghost town, but was recently brought back to life by a local art foundation, ArtisA. This colourful neigbourhood is home to art galleries, cafes, guided street art tours, and the biggest art fair in the Caribbean, Aruba Art Fair. The streets of San Nicolas are an international art gallery you can explore on your own or with Tito Bolivar from Aruba Mural Tours, the man who steered the metamorphosis of this neigbourhood.

The final stop on our day tour is Baby Beach, on the Southern end of the island. A short drive from San Nicolas, the beach is a half-moon sandy bay with shallow waters as far as the eye can see, flat like a sheet of paper. My travel companions ventured out far into the sea, I could see them swaying in the clear blue water in the distance, dipping from time to time. I stood two feet in the water on shore, determined to capture the beauty of this beach on camera, task quickly proven impossible from the ground. So instead I sat on a hot rock contemplating the contradiction of the scenery – some of the bluest water in the world set against a clear, unbothered sky, remnants of an abandoned oil refinery in the background.

The big night out: Cocktails, dance moves … shots

Every lady’s night of shenanigans begins with a classy dinner. Having bid adieu to the sushi master, we moved to the garden terrace of a 100-year-old mansion, Quinta del Carmen. The house, built in 1916, was once a family home, a physician’s practice, and a refinery clubhouse. Today, it is a fine dining establishment in the heart of Oranjestad serving world-inspired cuisine, heavy on fresh seafood.

With the moon now illuminating the way, we hopped aboard a colourful bus for an Aruba pub Krawl with Kukoo Kunuku. Joined by a rowdy group of strangers, we were each given a branded sippy cup for bottomless on-board cocktails – a fruity rum mix called the Kukoo Kiss. For the following three-and-a-half hours, we drove around, stopping at some of the island’s favourite local bars and nightlife spots. Finding a unique vibe in each bar, we danced, laughed, clapped along, and sipped our way across Oranjestad.

Dinner at Quinta del Carmen, Aruba.

Out at sea: Aruba luxury lagoon cruise to Spanish Lagoon

If I have learned anything over many years of travel is that one must not follow a big night out with a boat tour, but the mind forgets the moments it wants to forget. Picked up by Pelican Adventures in the morning, we drove out to the Pelican Pier for a Luxury Lagoon Cruise.

The boat is a classic red schooner with white sails, with water hammocks to each side of the bow. At the centre is a spacious flatbed on which I spent most of my afternoon roasting, cheeks up to the sun. And at the back, out of the sun’s merciless heat, are benches and harvest tables where our gourmet lunch was served. 

Cruising along Aruba’s southern coast, we saw the skyline transform from low-rise historic buildings to high-rise hotel towers, beaches, and parks. Further into the sea, we passed small islands, an amusement park, abandoned docking areas, and villages. Surrounded by impeccable blue water cruiser dove into the sea one-by-one to snorkel across to the Spanish Lagoon, returning invigorated and welcomed by an open bar with lively music.

Aruba Luxury Lagoon Cruise with Pelican Adventures.

* * *

Aruba’s slogan is “One Happy Island!” and after spending a week there, I can see why that might be the case. Considered as one of the safest islands in the Caribbean (“So safe, it’s almost boring”), it is not a place for extreme adventure. People come here to relax and unwind, to enjoy a life of leisure in the sun.

Having entered the country with an open mind and minimal expectations, I felt welcomed, entertained, well-fed, and most definitely relaxed. Granted, my Kodak moments were formed through personal experiences and relationships I built on the One Happy Island. But yours can be too.   

Brown pelicans and seagulls on Eagle Beach, Aruba.

Practical travel advice

Visa requirements: A valid passport accompanied by a completed approved Embarkation and Disembarkation card (ED Card). The ED card is a $20 Sustainability Fee, which you can apply for online. More information about travel regulations can be found on visitaruba.com.

Getting to Aruba: From Canada, direct flights to Aruba are available from Toronto (YYZ) with Air Canada and WestJet (5-6 hours). From the USA, direct flights (3-5 hours) are available with JetBlue, American, Delta, and United from major cities like Miami, New York (JFK/EWR), Atlanta, Charlotte, Boston, Houston, and Philadelphia. UK travellers will have to connect in Amsterdam (KLM), though TUI Airways sometimes operates direct charter flights from London Gatwick. 

Drinking water: Tap water in Aruba is perfectly clean and safe to drink and meets the highest quality standard set by the WHO.

Money: The local currency is the Aruban Florin (AWG), although US dollars are also widely accepted. Tipping is not mandatory but appreciated. Some restaurants will add a service charge for larger groups service charge is not a tip for your waiter. 

Language: Aruba is an autonomous constituent country within the Kingdom of the Netherlands. Local languages are Papiamento (Afro-Portuguese Creole language) and Dutch, although most people speak English, especially across the diverse hospitality world. 

Phone and internet access: You can purchase a physical SIM on arrival at the AUA airport or be prepared by installing an eSIM ahead of time. Read more about eSIMs. 

Packing advice: make sure to bring plenty of sunscreen, a beach cover and a sun hat (ideally one that sits tightly on or has a tie), a folding or motorised mini fan, a few swimwear sets, evening attire, and a comfortable beach bag.

Book directly to take advantage of flexible special offers and exclusive perks at amsterdammanor.com. Compare rate to: Expedia | Booking.com | TripAdvisor | Hotels.com

Alto Vista Chapel, Aruba.

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