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All photos by Kateryna Topol.

Sightseeing in Puerto Vallarta

Walking towards the city centre, you will cross Isla Rio Cuale, a small inland island with art installations, a few fun pubs playing live music, and a cat shelter. A way of the island is a mosaic staircase that offers a fantastic view of the city from the top. Following the rural streets into the centre, you’ll end up in the footsteps of Our Lady of Guadalupe. A beautiful old church that leads into the Plaza Principal de las Arms – the city gates.

Over the years, the vibe of the city has changed quite a bit. Puerta Vallarta has gentrified significantly since the pandemic, and a good half of it (to the left of Isla Cuale facing the ocean) feels like an ultimate retiary spring break destination and heaven for the LGBTQ+ community. If the party strip energy is what you’re looking for then this is the place. To the right of Isla Cuale, things calm down a bit. Here you will find even more art galleries and quite a few elevated restaurants. Make sure to pick up a few printed guides at the airport, one of them includes a walking tour of the city’s art galleries.

The waterfront pathway stretches quite far and is also filled with touristy restaurants, ice cream shops, and street vendors. Downtown is the main location for Día de Muertos celebrations with regional Ofrendas and Catrinas. One of the Catrinas is so tall she can be seen from the scenic viewpoints in the hills, especially from the Faro de la Calle Matamoros lighthouse. A quick hike up the lighthouse steps offers you a great 360 view of the city.

Where to eat & Drink in Puerto Vallarta

Café des Artistes is an upscale restaurant I visited twice, four years apart, and even during my last visit, it was one of my favourite meals in Vallarta. The main floor is a small maze of tables covered by white tablecloths. The upstairs patio is a beautiful forest buzzing with laughs and dinner chatter. Once seated, the first menu given to you is a cocktail list, the main menu is only handed after and has an option for Chef’s menu with wine pairings. The portions are quite generous and very filling, and the cocktails are spectacular. Reservations are required, and the dress code is in effect, this is a place where you come to see and be seen. The restaurant is located across the street from Jovian Fine Art, which I strongly recommend popping into before dinner.

Tuna Azul Zona Romantica is a fairly new spot getting some attention from the local critics and press. Here they serve all kinds of fresh fish dishes and hand-made tostadas, tacos, and fancy stacks with fresh fruit and vegetables. There is a covered interior and a large sandy patio, great for people-watching.

Top: Tuna Azul Zona Romantica
Bottom: Makal, Purto Vallarta

Makal, it seems, is a place where other chefs come to eat. They have an elaborate, elevated menu and are already winning awards. The space is bright, open, and casual with colourful paintings on the walls reflective of their exciting dishes.

El Colibrí is a speakeasy-style cocktail bar located just about a block away from the main waterfront strip, not far from the Puerto Vallarta Malecón. This bar is dark, moody, with good music, and the drink menu was so good we came two nights in a row and endured the insane heatwave for these jungle-inspired craft cocktails. Not too far is Ofelia’s Wine Bar, a small family-owned wine bar focusing on what’s open and available that day. There is nothing fancy about the decor, but the building is cool with open brick and an arched entry. What you come here for is good conversations and fun wines.

Tip: Do try the local ice cream, the sticks are my favourite. But, do not drink water, or even fresh lemonade, unless you’re certain your stomach is well acclimatised.

Back in 2019, the local brewery, Los Muertos Brewing Company, PV’s first craft brewery and pub, was one of my highlights. To maximise our experience, a flight of 8 beers seemed necessary – all those available plus a seasonal Ale. The beers were a nice range from light to dark, some more interesting than others. Naturally, there was also something very local: Anillo De Fuego, aka Chilli Ale. This slightly spicy beer finishes with subtle heat that catches you by surprise and slightly sets your throat on fire. The brewery has two locations and has amassed quite a bit of popularity since. These days, the brewery is a fast-paced, busy spot, frequented mostly by tourists, but if you do happen to walk by and try the domestic brews, you just might enjoy it.

El Andariego Restaurante is situated a bit out of the centre towards the hotel zone. A fairly large family restaurant celebrating 30 years El Andariego offers traditional Mexican cuisine, and a lot of it. Our afternoon experience included a couple of bottles of cold Modelo, table-side guacamole, and a couple of taco plates. Which inevitably came with beans and corn, all very delicious, and some tequila on the house. The space itself is quite interesting: the upper deck has a full wall mural and a hip-high shelving unit with small square pockets – tequila storage for the regulars.

Above and below: El Andariego Restaurante

Where to stay when visiting Puerto Vallarta

Hotel Boutique Luxury Patio Azul

For our second visit, the idea was to stay closer to the city core, somewhere with a pool and a view. This took us to Hotel Boutique Luxury Patio Azul, located up the hill from the city centre. It is a small boutique hotel spread across multiple levels with scenic rooftops. The rooms are authentically decorated, comfortable, and spacious. There is a pool bar which serves drinks during the day, breakfast and afternoon snacks. For dinner, you will need to venture out into town.

Starting at $135 per King
Book on Expedia

Buenaventura Grand Hotel Puerto Vallarta

Another luxurious waterfront property in the city centre. This all-inclusive resort is a beach spa retreat with spacious rooms and a high commitment to sustainability and environmental practices.

Starting at $325 per 2 Doubles, All-inclusive
Book on Expedia

Villa Premiere Boutique Hotel

On my wish list for my next visit is the all-inclusive Villa Premiere Boutique Hotel, an adults-only romantic getaway just outside of the city centre. This is a luxury resort set right on the beach with a few luscious pools breaking up the space between the main buildings and the sandy shore.

Starting at $455 per King, All-inclusive
Book on Expedia

Fiesta Americana Puerto Vallarta

Fiesta is where I stayed during my first visit. It is a large, all-inclusive, adults-only hotel and spa. The property has one of the best beaches in the Hotel Zone and many various pools, including an infinity pool deck. The full review can be found here.

Starting at $577 per King or 2 Double room, All-inclusive
Book on Expedia for a great member price discount (55% as of July 3, 2024)

Above and below: images from Hotel Boutique Luxury Patio Azul, Puerto Vallarta

Find more hotel options in Puerto Vallarta

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About the islands 

Islas Marietas is uninhabited and protected. Only a small number of people are allowed to be in the area per day. No one is allowed to dock or step foot on land. The secret beach, which fronts the Instagram posts and tour brochures, is technically forbidden and can only be accessed by boat during low tide. Some tours, however, can take you there on an excursion. The original island formations were volcanic and rich with marine and land life.

In the 1900s Mexican military conducted a series of bombing tests on the islands. These explosions created new caves and rocky formations. After the national outrage, the government decided to close the island and protect it against any fishing, hunting, or human activity in order to preserve the corals and sea life. The island is stunning to look at from a distance. But the boats do get close enough to notice some of the seabirds nesting on the coast.

About the group tour

To see Las Marietas we went on the Eco Discovery Tour early Friday morning. The tour is operated by Vallarta Adventures and was a bit of a mess organizationally. The agenda did not include a pickup and overall was not very clear. I had a rough idea of what we were doing and just sort of went with it as the day went on. To start, we had to find our way to the marina and then stand in line to get checked in and pay a couple of additional city fees. A half-hour or so later, we boarded the boat.

Ten minutes into the ride we stumbled upon a couple of whales – a mother and a baby whale. With the rising sun as a backdrop, it was a great way to start the day. The boat ride was very rocky and breakfast was served while we were on the waves. Navigating up and down the stairs to get food or drink was challenging. On more than one occasion I was fearful of being thrown off the boat. A few people got very nauseous. As we began to approach the island the waves soothed a bit and everyone geared up to get off the boat for snorkeling.

Our second stop got cancelled due to bad weather. To make up for a lost experience the tour crew decided to take us around Puerto Vallarta shore to see the coast while the members of the team put on a costume show on the boat front. There was no mention of the show in our vague agenda so we had no idea what to expect.

What we got was a set of short lip-sing and dress-up performances, and yet another lap dance for a birthday girl the crew picked out from the crowd. The birthday girl, let’s call her Brenda, had no hesitations in knocking down tequila shots with the dancers and took the tray of shots as a sign of an about-to-happen boat party. The rest of the audience, some still nauseated, sparingly took part in the tequila shooting but made no effort to move from their seats despite Brenda’s enthusiastic encouragement. We docked shortly and like strangers that we were people calmly found their way out of the marina.

A few tour options for your next visit

Expedia: Marietas Islands Discovery Tour

Expedia: Puerto Vallarta Islas Marietas Eco Discovery

A range of tour options can be found on Viator

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The public bus from the hotel took us directly to the top of Boca de Tomatlan, where the trail starts. Going down the road through the village a few people tried to sell us a boat tour, a taxi ride, and a few other things. Eventually, a nice man noticed my sister’s hiking shoes and pointed us toward the trail start. At the center of the area, water flows inland like a river, and a small sandy pathway across it is used by people to tan and rest; boats docked on the riverbank and along the shore.

The hike is well-marked with maps and directional signs throughout. Quick five minutes into it I had to change out of the flip-flops into hiking shoes. Another few minutes up the hill the hair went up and the sweat began to form. It is not a complicated hike but it ain’t no beach walk: up and down steep stairs, hills, climbing over rocks and trees, down to the sandy beaches, and back up again. And again and again.

The route takes you to Colomitos, a small hidden beach otherwise only accessible by boat. A couple of street vendors make food on land but the Ocean Grill Vallarta restaurant, across the bridge, seemed like a great idea. Sadly, it didn’t quite turn out as expected and resulted in mild food poisoning. Back up and around the hill, past a couple of smaller beaches, the path takes you to Cabo Corrientes. This is a stunning beach with tall palm trees, volcanic rocks, and waves gracefully crashing into the sand.

Near what looks like an eco-resort is a fun bar that I desperately wanted to relax in and cleanse my palette after that terrible lunch. But sadly we were running out of daytime. Up the road from the bar, a man watering the plants agreed to sell us a coconut from a neat pile near him. Filled to the top with clear coconut water this was the most delicious and reviving sip of liquid I’ve ever had and still cannot stop thinking about. Best 3 dollars ever spent.

The trail ends at the Las Animas beach. Being the most popular stop on the hike this beach is packed with shops and restaurants. Crowds are flocking to the dock in search of a ride home. There is no organization or order here, it’s a kind of a free-for-all. Anything that looks like a line is likely a tour or a cruise ship crowd waiting for their ride. Boat taxis swim up and call out various destinations, including Boca, one of those will take you home for cash money.

What I loved most about the hike was nature. The trail gives you an opportunity to spot less populated beaches, wildlife, smaller and more interesting resorts, and stunning views of the ocean. It’s different here, quiet, almost tranquil.

Quick link to trail details here.

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Grand Fiesta Americana Puerto Vallarta is an adult-only, 4.5 start all-inclusive that promises paradise, and for the most part, it is. As soon as you enter, a large open-air lobby welcomes you with a breath of cool, fresh air. The decor is modern and bright, a mix of wood and fabric with a little bit of thick yarn and a pop of fresh flowers. The view from pretty much everywhere is stunning – pools weaving through the hotel grounds, rows of umbrellas lined into a ribbon, and a sandy beach. If you are lucky, a whale in the distance. Everywhere you look is something pretty to see and nice to sit on.

If you book through Expedia a few extra perks are added because Grand Fiesta is a VIP+ rated resort. Some of these perks included:

• Private check-in
• Daily SPA discount
• Access to the VIP Lounge on the 13th floor

The best perk perhaps, is the 13th-floor VIP Lounge. The lounge has indoor and outdoor seating, a serene environment, stellar service, and various meals offered throughout the day. This, mostly white and green, space became an extension of our room. Here we had breakfast, ate macaroons, and lived our best champagne life.

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All rooms have a balcony with a couple of wicker chairs, a side table, and a view of the ocean. The shower is spacious and all glass with a window looking into the room. The fridge was stocked daily with snacks, beers, and pop. As a welcome on day one, the table was set up for wine service with a bottle of red. As a staple in each room is a set of slippers, a robe, and a really handy beach bag which nearly everyone at the resort used. The sleep quality, however, could use some improvement. The beds are very hard with heavy blankets and despite the constant daily relaxation I slept terribly the entire time – perhaps why that half of the 5-star is missing.

Unlike some resorts, where the promise of all-inclusive comes with conditions of your inclusivity level, at Grand Fiesta Americana* everything that’s promised is actually included: room service, kayaks, paddleboards, yoga classes, and all other pool-side activities. Things that come at additional cost are certain cabanas, poolside bottle service, and non-house wine.

Eating at the resort can be a little tricky: some restaurants are closed on various days of the week, and the buffet is closed a couple of times during the day. There is nowhere to get food 24/7 so if you’re hungry after 10 pm room service is the only way. The average wait was 30-40 min so there were times the last person standing had to finish dinner for two. On certain nights the dinner is served outside in a fun and festive style with a Mexican buffet and a show. The restaurants located inside all have dress codes so flip-flops are only okay on the pool level.

For the first night’s dinner, we opted for Mexican at Rojo Corazón. It was a fantastic meal with tableside guacamole service, delicious steak tacos, cold margaritas on ice, and all kinds of other tasty goodness. On the far side of the beach is the Cevicheria. Marked by its blue umbrellas and chairs the cafe is framed by the hillside with a view of the ocean. Open only during the day Cevicheria offers a large selection of fresh seafood, homemade ice cream, and a few market-price items like lobster. Ideal for an afternoon snack, paired with bottomless mimosas, this quickly became our favourite spot.

Near the lobby is a Spanish tapas place called Serrano Station with a lovely open view of the sunset. The tapas here technicality means that everything on the menu is served as a single portion. You will get one crostini, one bite, and one spoon. The house drink special is a sangria-like compote that’s a little on the sweet side. 

Yuu, an Asian restaurant is precisely that – a variety of all types of Asian food from curry to sushi. Soy sauce is poured per person on request, and sashimi is basically grilled fish thinly sliced. On a different floor is the restaurant Gulietta. This is an Italian restaurant and one I liked the least: portions are very small and the menu is very confusing. The Buffet has a wide range of options from different cuisines with gluten and dairy-free alternatives. In the afternoon they make snacks by the pool and at night you can watch the show from the patio.

For cocktails, a few bars are scattered around the buildings: 

• Martini Lounge has a pool table
• Mojito Lounge has fun swings and a nice view
• Tequila Lounge, well I never found that one and instead watched the sunset from the 13th-floor Lounge.

The main late-night venue is Divina Skybar. Here the DJ plays after 11 to a small crowd of those who are drunk enough to dance and those still relaxing in the jacuzzi.

The nightly entertainment features a handful of dancers, some circus acts, live bands, and cultural performances. The Risky Show is what we saw on the first night and it ended with me getting a lap dance. In front of my mother – I was famous on the resort by the end of day one. When everyone forgot about that I brought a coconut to the pool which for some reason was almost as scandalously appealing as the sandwich lap dance. I guess getting your five minutes of fame on the resort is much easier than in LA (not that I was looking for it).

And then there is the Haixa Spa. With a large menu of services most of which, I found, cost more than those I can get at a 5-start hotel in Toronto. But the spa did offer a low-cost water circuit: dry and wet saunas, with cold showers in between, and cold and hot temperature pools with a hydrating water massage. And at the end, relaxation on a lightly heated ceramic lounge with a couple of cucumbers over your eyes, a cold towel, and a gentle face massage. This roughly came to $30 per person, took a couple of hours, and was worth every penny. I am now a Spa addict, sign me up for monthly service!

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