“Don’t step on the dead people, guys!” Victor Ibarra, brand ambassador for Oro de Coyame, proclaimed dramatically as we approached the intricately decorated wooden cross. Production of sotol was illegal for 50 years, pushing the industry literally under the ground. For years, sotoleros buried the bottles in artificial graves to hide them from impromptu authority visits, unintentionally defining an entirely new ageing process for the spirit.
Sotol is deeply rooted in Mexican history and has become synonymous with the state of Chihuahua. Various distilleries have annual sotol harvest celebrations, inviting friends and family to honour the ancestral methods and celebrate the spirit. Much like mezcal, sotol is finally gaining momentum, finding its place in the spotlight among spirits connoisseurs. But what feels new to many is actually an 800-year-old tradition.
The trip was hosted by the Chihuahua Tourism Board; the DMO did not review or approve this story.
All images by Kateryna Topol.
What is Sotol?
Sotol derives from Dasylirion plants, commonly grown in the Chihuahua Desert (which takes up 500,000 square kilometres of land). It is a succulent plant with long, spiny leaves, almost sharp to the touch. At first glance, the plant can be mistaken for an Agave, famously used for tequila and mezcal production, but there are a few key differences between the plant families. Dasylirion does not need much water and can live up to 100 years, regrowing after being cut, unlike Agave, which ends its lifecycle after it flowers. As a dioecious species, the Dasylirion plants need to be pollinated by birds in order to bloom, another differentiating factor from Agave.
Up to 90% of the Dasylirion plants grown in Chihuahua are wild, “but we can’t just go around cutting them,” Victor pointed out. Producers need to have a permit, which dictates how many tonnes of plants they can extract per year. It takes up to 12 years for Dasylirion to reach the maturity needed for sotol production, so strict extraction and reforestation allow plants to replenish naturally and sustainably. “It is a federal crime to get caught with sotol heads that were not approved for harvest,” Ibarra added. This, of course, means that sotol is a terroir spirit. It was registered as Denominación de Origen in 2002 and can only be produced in Chihuahua, Coahuila, and Durango.
How do you consume it?
The best way to drink sotol is to sip it neat, like you would whiskey. Serve it in a small glass like a copita (short-stemmed glass) or in a small clay vessel as you would with mezcal. Joven sotol (blanco) can also be used in cocktails, for a margarita or a paloma. Older sotols could produce an interesting Old Fashioned.
A bit of sotol history
Indigenous People of the Chihuahua Desert have been making sotol for centuries. Rarámuri, for example, were fermenting the plants, producing a more soupy, beer-like spirit, but the true origin of the beverage is still being studied. According to Ibarra, a Chihuahua native with 40 years of experience in spirits, the distillation process was brought to the region by the Spaniards in the 1600s. The ageing process, however, was an outcome of prohibition.
For a period of time, sotol was seen as a drink of peasants and drunks and as such was illegal until 1994. But even with the prohibition in full effect, people were still making sotol and exporting it to their nearby neighbours in the USA. Rangers roamed the desert, destroying distilleries, breaking stills, and bottles. To hide their hard work from the rangers, sotoleros (sotol distillers) would dig graves and bury the bottles, placing burial crosses on top. When rangers came to look for sotol bottles, sotoleros would claim none were left, and if questioned about the fresh grave, would express their condolences for a recently passed away aunt.
The rangers would pay their respects at the grave, not realising a stash of sotol was resting just below their feet. What soteleros didn’t know at the time was that burying the bottles changed how they matured. “The methanol would create these fantastic flavours in controlled temperatures,” Ibarra explained, “completely changing the flavour of the spirit”.
Oro de Coyame have been producing sotol for over 150 years under the care and supervision of the Ruelas Family. Today, they still bury a few bottles to honour the tradition. These bottles are often unearthed for the Sotol Festival, where fans and producers gather to eat, sip, and celebrate.
How is Sotol produced?
There are 24 types of Dasylirion plants, Oro de Coyame grow five, each neatly named with a name plaque. Different varietals produce different sotol, and as such are indicated on the bottle (ie. “100% Dasylirion Wheeleri”). Flavourwise, sotol is bright and grassy, with herbaceous and citrus notes, sometimes even floral, depending on the plant variety. This flavour can, of course, change through barrel ageing.
Similar to mezcal, there are three types of sotol: industrial, artisanal, and ancestral. Ancestral method uses clay pots and is mostly used by small producers. Industrial sotol is defined by its title, produced by some of the bigger distilleries, like Hacienda de Chihuahua, which have their own plantations. Oro de Coyame, on the other hand, is the number one artisanal sotol producer in the world, cooking up 27,000 litres annually. The distillery relies on wild plants, and these “plants are harder to harvest because some of the fields are high up in the mountains,” Ibarra shared, “so we have to get creative about our approach”.
The production process is very similar to mezcal, though sotol purists prefer to call the Dasylirion piña the heart. The Dasylirion plant is trimmed down to its heart (leaves are used to make baskets and other crafts) and roasted in a deep pit (aka the oven) in the ground. Plant hearts spend up to five or even seven days in the oven. This process caramelises the sugars, making them richer and more pronounced. Only the maestro sotelero knows when the hearts are ready, one of their many secrets.
The liquid gathered from the roasted hearts, called vino, is then transferred into pine wood vats for natural fermentation for up to seven days. This liquid is then moved into copper stills (some producers use steel) and distilled, or double-distilled at Oro de Coyame. Most sotols are unaged, but the Ruelas Family likes to experiment with flavour. In addition to the staple unaged joven (young) expression, they also produce reposado, aged for four months in red oak barrels and añejo, aged for two years.
If you visit the distillery, however, many more bottles will be lined up before your eyes. Every year, the distillery shares special releases, all limited and only some available for export. In the tasting room, the showstopper is a glass jar with rattlesnake folded inside. “Would you like to try it?” Ibarra scanned the room with a grin. We all bravely stepped forward, reaching for the shot glasses.
In Chihuahua, snake venom is believed to have healing powers and is incorporated in various traditional practices. Non-poisonous rattlesnake venom sotol is therefore believed to have medicinal properties. With the first sip, this sotol was surprisingly smooth and flavorful. None of us really knew what to expect, but the pleasantly approachable feel was a welcome surprise. Bottles of rattlesnake sotol are available for purchase at the distillery, along with some other rare and vintage finds.
How to visit Oro de Coyame
The distillery is located in Aldama, Chihuahua, not far from the capital city. The tasting room is open daily, but advance bookings are recommended. Keep in mind, this isn’t a luxurious tasting experience like you’d get in a Champagne house. Oro de Coyame is a small facility with a small tasting room, what you will get is an educational tour and a unique tasting experience.
