Some years ago, I saw a picture of a rural hotel in Québec, a turquoise pool surrounded by boundless farmland. Something about this luxurious yet remote comfort stuck with me. The hotel is Hôtel & Spa Le Germain Charlevoix, and when I finally stepped on its grounds, I took a deep breath in, fully prepared to relax.
Germain Hôtels is a family-owned business, known for opening chic properties in urban locations (like the location in Québec City). But this property is different. This rural location is a contemporary farm hotel in the heart of Baie-Saint-Paul, Québec. Decades ago, on this land stood the largest wooden farm in Canada, and the current hotel design is an ode to the original farm.
Much like the rest of the Germain properties, the architecture, interior design, and decor throughout the hotel represent the history and culture of the area. From building materials to interior decor, everything is sourced locally as much as possible. From the very beginning, Germain Hôtels have been pioneers in sustainable development, from building practices to day-to-day operations, and this property takes sustainability above and beyond. For this reason, and many others, Hôtel & Spa Le Germain Charlevoix has a Michelin Key.
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This hotel stay was hosted by Hôtel Le Germain, which did not review or approve this story.
All images by Kateryna Topol.
The Vibe & Shared Spaces
The hotel consists of multiple pavilions, loosely forming a rectangle around a public square. The square has communal tables and a fire pit, welcoming people from across the area to enjoy a picnic or relax by the open fire. This area is a place of celebration, gathering guests and neighbours for special events and winter ice skating on the seasonal rink. Near the train station entrance is also an art gallery, showcasing local talent inside the space and along walking paths throughout the property.
Through the square is the Spa, and just behind it, following a footpath, is the Germain farm. Grazing across the boundless property is a herd of Scottish cows (coos), perhaps the main attraction at the hotel, always ready for their Kodak moment. Along the farm perimeter are various animal enclosures with chickens, ducks, rabbits, sheep, and seasonal alpaca residents. Further into the farm is a temporary colony of bees, cared for by a local beekeeper.
A daily walk across the farm curves through animal enclosures, herb and vegetable gardens, and along the train tracks, paralleling a long vegetable patch. For a longer walk, an interior footpath will take you all the way to the Baie-Saint-Paul beach, where you can fish, picnic, and bask in the sun.
In the main building is the reception, two restaurants, and board rooms, spread across multiple levels. Every corner of the hotel is uniquely decorated, heavy on wood finishes and farm-themed decor, but with a modern flair. During summer break months, a ping pong table is rolled out near the couches out back, mostly used by families throughout the day. With an impressive mix of amenities and access to nature, it is easy to spend time on this property, losing yourself in nature, thermal comfort, or in a quiet corner with a good book.
Dining & Farm Notes
Les Labours, located on the second floor, is the pride and joy of the hotel’s culinary program. This farm-to-table open kitchen concept led by Chef Patrick Dubé celebrates regional and seasonal flavours. The kitchen team works closely with the farm team. Chef Dubé and the hotel’s Market Gardener in Chief, Virginie Lagrandeur, meet often, planning for the seasonal harvests and weekly farm picks. Lagrandeur’s team does the picking and stocks the kitchen fridge nearly daily, supplying both restaurants with vegetables and ingredients for fresh pesto, sauces, and garnishes. Anything that is not grown on the farm is sourced from local farmers. Both the farm and the kitchen follow a series of sustainability initiatives, including composting across the property and in the kitchen.
Market Gardener in Chief at Hôtel & Spa Le Germain Charlevoix, Virginie Lagrandeur
The dinner menu at Les Labours is split into The Farm (Foie Gras, Squab, Deer, Beef, etc), The Sea (QC Oysters, Octopus, Striped Bass, Caviar, etc.), and The Earth, focused on vegetable-forward dishes. Those interested in a guided tasting can indulge in The Experience Labours, a four-course tasting menu with a dish from every category plus dessert.
Morning breakfast buffet is also served at Les Labours is a fantastic way to start the day. The indulgence selections are set around the open kitchen with an additional hot bar to the side. From eggs and bacon to waffles, pancakes, breakfast charcuterie and smoked salmon, there is plenty to choose from. The restaurant has wraparound windows, offering an unobstructed view across the fields and into town.
Le Bercail, set on the lower level of the main building, is a more casual restaurant with an outdoor terrace. Open for lunch and dinner, Le Bercail kitchen produces fresh appetisers and salads, handmade pizzas, pastas, seafood and meat comfort dishes, and ribs from the hotel’s smokehouse.
Both restaurants have a robust selection and cocktails and wines, with a focus on regional and Canadian producers. For all the hours between meals, there is a self-serve wine bar in the hotel lobby. Guests can choose from a selection of white and red wines perfectly chilled inside the machine. A quick credit card swipe will dispense a desirable portion of God’s favourite liquid into a branded winglass, which you can take to your room or to the firepit for a perfect nightcap.
Note: Reservations are recommended for all meals; the hotel is a popular dining destination for locals as much as it is for visitors.
Inside the Suite
Across the five buildings, there are only 145 rooms at the hotel. Each building has a unique feel and layout. The Les Dortoirs de la Gare building, for example, has pull-down beds and a railway theme. Le Clos was influenced by a historic Charlevoix monastery, so the decor is clean and light, accented by dark wooden beams. Le Moulin is botanically themed, La Bergerie is retro-themed with woven rugs and rocking chairs, and La Basse-Cour leans into the animal motifs and bright colours.
Le Clos building is best suited for couples and solo travellers and is most commonly featured in the property’s promotional materials. The minimalist decor is punctuated with blue glass and black faucets. Most rooms have a view of the farm, letting the sun in through the windows while coos nibble on hay just outside. Le Clos rooms have large bathtubs with wraparound curtains, adding that extra layer of relaxation for a colder evening or a rainy day.
In all buildings, rooms on the lower levels have semi-private terraces, while rooms higher up have scenic balconies. Some family-friendly rooms have bunk beds, ready to accommodate up to four guests. All rooms maximise storage capacity with roll-out luggage benches, cabinetry, and underbed storage. Each room is equipped with a glass water bottle (encouraging sustainable water use), goose down duvets and feather pillows, washable and reusable sleepers, bathrobes, Chromecast, and a seating area.
Signature Room, Clos Building: King bed with storage, lighting accents, and a daybed. Below: Bathroom closeup, view from the window and the bathtub.
Spa & Wellness
Hotel guests can take advantage of a small gym and an outdoor pool with abstract sunbeds and a few cabanas lining its perimeter. The main allure, however, is The Spa Nordique Le Germain. Open year-round, the spa has a Finnish sauna, eucalyptus steam bath, hot and cold outdoor pools and a snow fountain. The outdoor pools have a great view of the farm, a short distance away from the coo enclosures, which make for some great entertainment. On a hot summer day, a thermal spa might not be the most necessary experience, but on a cold winter afternoon, this circuit is heavenly. One can spend hours soaking in the hot pool or simply relaxing in the sauna, observing the snow, or resting on interior loungers.
Massage services are available by reservation.
Special Events
Throughout the year, the hotel hosts a series of seasonal events, embracing nature and terroir ingredients in a mix of fun and community-friendly ways. Last summer, for example, every Sunday was a BBQ DJ party at La Boucane, and Thursday happy hour included oysters. Guided outdoor stretches, garden visits, bike rentals, and pool fitness classes are also on the activity menu.
Every fall, Hôtel & Spa Le Germain Charlevoix host a unique culinary experience, Champs Libres. Renowned Québec chefs join Executive Chef Patrick Dubé and his team for an exclusive dining series. Each night, a different chef does a Les Labours kitchen takeover, sharing their unique culinary vision with guests and neighbours of the hotel.
This winter, visitors can expect live music in the lobby and find a festive winter village on the square terrace with maple taffy and mulled wine, among other culinary indulgences. The kids’ activity list includes elf visits, games, a skating rink, storytime, movie screenings, and marshmallows by the fire (available year-round).
Getting to Hôtel & Spa Le Germain Charlevoix
Charlevoix is a regional county municipality in the Capitale-Nationale region of Québec, Canada, partially located on the bank of St Lawrence River. The drive from Québec City is a bit over an hour, while Montréal is four hours away. If you are planning a road trip through Québec Maritimes, this is a great stop to add to that journey.
Alternatively, you can take a train from Québec City, Train de Charlevoix, which stops on the grounds of the hotel. The train is privately owned and seasonal, and includes some hotel plus train packages with Hôtel & Spa Le Germain, the stop is called Baie-Saint-Paul. There is one departure per day, and the train leaves from the Montmorency Falls grounds (Parc de la Chute-Montmorency). Getting to the train station is a journey in itself: a 10-minute car ride ($35+) or an hour-long bus.
The view from the train is really wonderful, and the train itself is quite comfortable, though the WiFi can be spotty. Pack your own snacks ahead of the journey or purchase from the train host on board. Onboard selection of snacks is limited but does include full, grocery-store-sized cheese packages. As of right now, the train is non-refundable.
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