Every time I land in Athens and exit through the terminal doors, there’s a peace that envelops me. It’s a tangible ‘right at home’ feeling, as if reconnecting with an old friend, and picking up where we left off. To me, even after a dozen visits, Athens’ intoxicating allure reverberates beyond its tantalising flavours and ancient sites. The city – ever the great seductress – always inspires me to meander, to linger, and rediscover its multi-layered, fabled nuances.
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Cover image: View of Acropolis of Athens with Parthenon and Erechtheion from Filopappou hill. Image by Constantinos Kollias.
Left: People in the Monastiraki Square, image by Andrea Leopardi. Right: Acropolis, Athens, image by Roland Fényes.
Favourite haunts
Start your Athenian adventure with this pro tip: before you head to the metro or hop in a cab, the best way to assimilate yourself quickly into Greek life, is to stop at one of the airport cafes for a Freddo Cappuccino. Cold and sweet, it’s a perfectly refreshing drink after a long flight.
Whether visiting for the first time, or 10th, Syntagma Square is always my first point of interest. A massive, centrally located square, it allows me to get my bearings. Above ground, in front of the Hellenic Parliament building, is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Every top of the hour, Evzones – elite presidential guards – perform the changing of the guard, a carefully choreographed, timeless ceremony. Below ground, at the Syntagma metro station, I always stop by the one the city’s most unexpected museums, revealing ancient roads, pottery, even skeletal remains, traced from classical antiquity to the Ottoman period.
Plaka – the “Neighbourhood of the Gods” – is one of the city’s most enchanting areas, and one I spend the most time in. Located at the base of the Acropolis, its narrow streets, tiny squares, and hidden courtyards are filled with everything from cafes to Byzantine churches. Near Monastiraki Square, I fuel up with a traditional Greek coffee at H Oraia Ellas (Beautiful Greece), and grab a gyro down the street at Bairaktaris – both are among the oldest establishments in the city, dating back to the 19th century.
Fueled by caffeine and tzatziki, I make my way through the expansive National Garden to Lycabettus Hill. Athens’ highest hill rewards with outstanding panoramic views of the city.
Plaka neigbourhood by day and night. Images by Thomas Gravanis, courtesy of This is Athens | Develop Athens.
Pro tip: take the funicular up the mountain, and walk back down at dusk, stopping at Prasini Tenta (Green Tent) to enjoy a coffee or cocktail overlooking the city at sunset.
Anafiotika is a tiny, hidden enclave that clings to the northern slopes of the Acropolis. Designed to look and feel like a Cycladic island village, its narrow, winding lanes, whitewashed cubic houses draped with bougainvillea, and outstanding city views make it a peaceful respite from the crowds.
I venture to Aeropagus Hill, once home to an ancient Greek court of law, before climbing the storied steps to the Parthenon itself. Sacred ground, I shed an emotional, uncontrollable tear every time I gaze upon it. Along Dionysiou Aeropagitou street, I pass the Odeon of Herodes Atticus and Prison of Socrates, en route to Philopappos Hill, a relaxing walk through nature with postcard views of the distant Acropolis.
Pro tip: Visit during golden hour to witness cotton candy hues gracing the ancient landmark. I end the day with a delectable dinner and live music at Geros tou Moria restaurant along the iconic Mnisikleous Stairs before cocktailing at Brettos, Athens’ oldest bar.
Can’t miss neighbourhoods
As tempting as it is to stay in areas like Plaka, venturing into more local neighbourhoods gives you a more immersive glimpse into Athens’ authentic heartbeat.
Psyri, tucked between Omonia and Monastiraki, was once a craftsmen’s quarter. Today, it’s like a teenager – relatively quiet during the day, but unapologetically loud and alive from dusk to sun up. I love meandering the maze of street art, even dancing in the streets until the wee hours, thanks to competing Bouzouki bands vying for your attention at every café, tavern, and restaurant. Must hit spots include Krinos for chocolate-drenched honey balls, Mokka Café for an authentic Greek coffee made on sand, and Avli, a hole-in-the-wall nook that you’d otherwise miss, if it wasn’t for the long line of diners waiting to be seated.
South of the city proper, Vouliagmeni is at the heart of the Athenian Riviera. Hike Faskomilia Hill for lovely coastal vistas, enjoy a day on the beach, and reward yourself at Lake Vougliagmeni, a tranquil, thermal spa surrounded by incredible natural beauty. In Greece, you can’t go five minutes without seeing a restaurant within walking distance, and in Vouliagmeni, I always get a table at Zaxos Grill for street food, Waffle House for hand-made ice cream, and Panorama restaurant for delicious seafood, oceanside.
West of Athens, Piraeus is a storied port city, and a gateway to the Greek islands. While many visitors pass through, I often stay a while and enjoy a coffee with Bougatsa (Greek phyllo custard pastry) in Mikrolimano (Little Harbour), watching fishing boats traverse the bay, before dipping into Votsalakia Beach (yes, especially in November and December) before gingerly strolling palm-tree lined Costantinos Triandafyllos Passage, and dinner at any of the restaurants lining beautiful Marina Zeas.
Left: Coffee at H Oraia Ellas, image courtesy of the cafe. Right: Gyro at Bairaktaris, image courtesy of the restaurant.
Where to stay: La Divina
Located in the historic Thiseio neighbourhood – between Plaka, Psyri, the Acropolis and Ancient Agora – La Divina makes for an obvious home base. 12 meticulously designed rooms, each named after the operas performed by legendary Greek-American Soprano Maria Callas. Charming, calming, and central, complete with personalised service and refined flavour, it makes for a comforting stay after an adrenaline-fueled Athenian adventure, with Parthenon views to boot.
Best time to visit Athens
Having been to Athens throughout the year, I prefer to visit before and after peak season – April to May, and October to December (yes, even December). It’s less expensive, the crowds are slightly thinner, and the attractions are still open. Athena herself replaces summer heat with pleasant days and comfortable nights, seducing with an ever-present, lively vibe that permeates into every crevice of this great city.
Author: Jim Bamboulis
@travelmammal
Jim Bamboulis is a content creator with 25 years of experience as a TV host and producer, Travel Journalist, and Podcaster. He has created travel and food videos for Lonely Planet and contributes to various international publications. Jim hosts the Fact Up Podcast, a travel show exploring destinations and local culture. He runs Mazee, a business offering Greek gift baskets and online cooking classes. A passionate traveller and outdoor enthusiast, Jim believes in balancing adventure with great food.
