“This is an authentic Mallorca food tour,” our guide Joan (pronounced Hoo-ahn) stressed, emphasising ‘authentic’. “Today, you’re not just a tour group, you’re my family,” he added, locking eyes around the group. “Ok, let’s go!”
We met Joan from Nofrills Excursions Mallorca in the plaza near the Royal Palace of La Almudaina, surrounded by street vendors and caricature artists seated in the palm tree shade. Equipped with a bottomless backpack (water? napkin? I got you), Joan handed each of us a map of the route for the Foodie tour in Palma de Mallorca. Having taken a brief look at the map, everyone promptly tucked it away in their pocket and proceeded to blindly follow the orange t-shirt through sunny Palma.
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Royal Palace of La Almudaina, Palma de Mallorca. All images by Kateryna Topol.
Joan has been hosting food tours for ten years, “last year, I took 2,000 people on a tour,” he proudly announced. Throughout the day, he swiftly switched between English and Spanish, occasionally translating various narratives to German for a family in the group. Mallorca uses three languages: Spanish (Castilian), Catalan, and Mallorquí (local Catalan dialect), but most people speak at least some English. With direct flights from most of the UK, this part of Spain has been a popular tourism destination for decades, attracting hospitality workers from around the world. This part of Spain is where I’ve spoken the least Spanish.
Weaving through the city streets, Joan shared various pieces of historic knowledge, occasionally gathering us in a tight circle to share a story. “See this building,” he points our attention to Can Forteza Rey, “it looks like an Antoni Gaudí building, doesn’t it? It is actually the work of his student, Lluís Forteza Rey”. Gaudí’s influence is very prominent in Palma’s modernist architecture, so this was not the first architectural work of art we came across on this day.
Empanadas from Ca na Cati Pastisseria, Palma de Mallorca.
Having situated us by Palma City Hall, Joan ran across the street to bring us the special treat: Empanadas Mallorquinas. This round pastry, made with soft crumbly dough, encloses a delicious combination of jamón ibérico (Iberico ham) and a mix of vegetables in a perfectly rounded little pocket. The dish is typically served on the last day of Easter and requires an extensive amount of labour to produce, “altogether it takes eleven hours to make this,” Joan paused for effect. Ours came from Pastisseria Cort (Ca na Cati Pastisseria), “best empanadas in Palma,” he pointed at the corner shop.
We looped through Carrer de Sant Miquel pedestrian street multiple times, “watch your bags on this street,” Joan patted his backpack. The first sit-down portion of the tour took us to Omare, where the team greeted us by promptly pouring wine for the table, some of which they produce themselves. One by one, tapas plates began to hit the table: tortilla Española (Spanish egg omlet), croquetas de pollo (chicken croquettes), followed by octopus with potatoes. And for the grand finale, a charcuterie board with local cheeses, grapes, and jamón ibérico. Gasps of excitement echoed across the table at the sight of the sharing plate.
“Bon profit!” he held up his wine glass, “that’s how you say bon appétit in Catalan”.
For the next half hour, we were instructed to explore Mercat de l’Olivar, solo. My initial confusion dissolved as soon as my eyes met the open market. Fresh produce stalls, cheese vendors, multiple ibérico ham counters with rows and rows of ham hanging from the ceiling. All the brightly lit up pintxos stations, and quick service bars were calling my name. Some tour attendees chose to shop. Others, having quickly toured the market, found a spot between the locals to enjoy a quick glass of sparkling wine and absorb the vibes of the casual afternoon market magic. The free time was well justified.
Looping back around and into a narrow alleyway, we made our way to Orxateria I Xocolateria Ca’n Joan de s’Aigo for a sweet surprise. This intricately decorated cafe has a rich local history, both cultural and culinary, but that bit, you will have to hear from Joan. On the menu as a parting sweet note is ensaïmada – a light, sugared pastry made with reduced lard from ibérico. Yes, it sounds weird, but it is absolutely delicious. The pastry is accompanied by a cold glass of “almond milk ice,” something you can only get here, in this shop.
Like most food tour groups, we all got to know each other a little better. Joan’s new family portrait was taken shortly after, under the one-thousand-year-old olive tree in Olivera de Cort.
Vegetables at Mercat de l’Olivar on each side and the thousand-year-old-olive tree at the centre.
