Fun fact: the city serves as the capital for the Rhône département and the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes régions. This means it is uniquely located close to an important wine region and the French Alps and can be a convenient stop on many different road trips.

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Getting to and around Lyon

Lyon is located a distance away from Paris, either a 4+ hour drive or a 2-hour high-speed train (tickets start at $14.30 CAD). Moving around the city is fairly easy, if you stay in the center you can walk pretty much anywhere and that walk will be nice and scenic. Lyon’s public transit network is quite extensive and includes a metro, multiple tram lines, and two funiculars. And yes, there is also Uber. 

EV note: If you have an electric vehicle, charge up before you head into the city and be prepared to find very few charging stations in the city itself. It is a dense city with heavy traffic so your battery will get exhausted quite fast.

Lyon’s notable attractions & historic stops

If you only have a couple of days, I would recommend exploring on foot. A good starting point is Vieux Lyon, the historic center. Packed with gift shops, cafes, street crepe vendors, and casual entertainment, it is also a good neighbourhood to stay in. 

Among notable stops is the Traboule et Cour des Voraces, a very, very old urban passageway with an industrial staircase, the whole thing has a dystopian feel to it, very different from the rest of the city. Not too far from it is the Amphitheatre of the Three Gauls, one of the few remaining Roman structures. The other, and much bigger structure, is Théâtre Gallo Romain de Lyon-Fourvière, where they still occasionally host live music events. Odeon of Lyon offers a nice view on this site. 

As with any European city, there are many beautiful churches, one must visit the Basilica of Notre Dame of Fourvière.  The other city staple is a public square, here it is called Place Bellecour, this neighbourhood is great for shopping. If time permits, venture out to Lyon Botanical Garden, for an open field and a breath of fresh air.

You can do all of the above in a day or two, depending on how fast you’re moving. I prefer a slower pace with culinary stops and breaks, which is how I would recommend seeing this city to maximise enjoyment. If you have more time, there are a few lovely day trips available, like the scenic Grenoble, the Beaujolais wine region, and a few other charming small towns. Lonely Planet has a good guide for Lyon day trips. 

Some live events & special activities in Lyon

• LUMINISCENCE: a live visual and musical experience at the Saint-Bonaventure Church
• Candlelight concerts at the Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière
• A range of comedy and theatre shows across the city
• Initial Festival, Bordeaux’s biggest electro festival, is taking place this September in Bordeaux, which is not too far
• Dinner or Lunch cruise on the Saône by Les Bateaux Lyonnais Hermès

All tickets can be purchased on Fever.

Lyon is a great city for sipping cocktails

I have not visited all of these cocktail bars personally, but they are on my wish list and there is no gatekeeping here – enjoy! My typical search includes local recommendations, award-winning bar teams, and unique spots. All links are Google links, so you can see how close you are to your hotel.

The Phantom of the Opera has a theatrical vibe, nearby Groom is the opposite, clean and stylish. A bit further down, we have The Monkey Club Cocktail Bar, red velvet and palm trees kind of cocktail spot. Following along the river, we’ll find Black Forest Society, a modern cocktail bar with a very promising menu. Across on the other side is L’ Antiquaire, which has a rather old-school vibe with an impressive backbar. Nearby is Soda Bar, which will be my first stop when I return. Across the bridge in Vieux Lyon is Bar Le Florian, a cosy interior with velvet couches and classical art and a great people-watching patio. We sat there for over an hour, working through the menu and observing foot traffic. Back in Cordeliers-Jacobins is L’Officine, which has a clean interior reminiscent of a classic train car and a terrace. 

For the beer drinkers, check out Beer O’Clock, it is what it says it is, and near it is a typical pub, The Elephant & Castle. The King Arthur pub has a really interesting interior with an arched ceiling and wooden decor. 

A quick note on food

All of the above bars have food, and some have amazing food, so check the menu beforehand. Do eat the street food and sit around in cafes. They open a bit late but have plenty of breakfast options like fresh quiches and other baked goods. 

Where to stay in Lyon

We stayed in Vieux Lyon, which was convenient for getting around but, quite noisy. Our AirBNB was on the top floor and significantly smaller than it looked. When looking at listings in this area, always ask if it is the top floor, since those are basically cellar spaces and are hot and small.  This neighbourhood does not allow cars, so if you are staying here, be prepared to drag your suitcases through cobblestones and, more than likely, up a lot of stairs. 

For a curated list of hotels, see Where to stay in Lyon, France: Five unique hotels.

These Vieux Lyon hotels tickled my fancy for future visits. Let’s look at them one at a time. 

Villa Florentine

Beautiful hotel with clean modern finishes, a scenic restaurant, and a terrace that looks over Vieux Lyon. There is a rooftop pool, gym, restaurant, bar, and spa. 

Room rate: Starting at $357/night

Book Villa Florentine

Villa Maïa

Situated on the outskirts of Vieux Lyon, this hotel feels like a garden. The room and rooftop restaurant look down at the river. There is an indoor pool, gym, restaurant, and spa. 

Room rate: Starting at $576/night

Book Villa Maïa

Cour des Loges Lyon

Right in the heart of Vieux Lyon, this is a historic property with wooden beams and heavy curtains. Some rooms are multilevel, there is a pool, a barrel hot tub, a spa, a restaurant, and a bar. 

Room rate: Starting at 

Book Cour des Loges Lyon

More hotels & Stays in Lyon

Gaulˆ is a region of Western Europe that encompasses current France, Belgium, Luxembourg, and parts of Switzerland, the Netherlands, Germany, and Northern Italy. 

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The Vibe & Shared Spaces 

It is a rather old building, like most buildings in these parts, of course. The common area has a turquize pool with large umbrellas and sun chairs for guests’ comfort. Morning coffee and breakfast are served near the pool, but there are a few other seating areas spread out under the trees for those looking for shade.

Inside the Suite 

The hotel has a range of rooms which can accommodate up to four people. The two-bedroom suite is a great size for three to four people to share on vacation. There is a shared common space, some fun windows between rooms, and shutters that open onto the yard. The third-floor room looks out over the garden yard with the ocean seen in the distance. 

Dining & Entertainment 

The restaurant is across the street and, according to the website, has “two red forks in the Michelin Guide”. The dining room feels like a garden, covered by a sunny shade with a walkout onto the yard, where the children can remain distracted for a time. The food is classic French, hearty, and delicious. In high season, you might need a reservation, much like at any other restaurant in the region. 

Hôtel Escapade, Le Pradet
Room  prices starting at €168/night
1 Rue de Tartane, 83220 Le Pradet, France
Book directly on hotel-escapade.com or your favourite booking website: Expedia | Booking.com | TripAdvisor | Hotels.com

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Champagne is a well-recognised region when it comes to travel. It is home to the world’s favourite golden liquid and a place of romantic luxury. The wealth of history that can be found in this region is absolutely astonishing, especially because champagne-making is close to its core. There is much to be said on this topic, and much of it is about the impressive innovations of Madame Clicquot, but that story is for another time. 

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There are many fantastic hotels in the Champagne region. During our visit, my sister and I were adamant about having at least one night at a unique location. Somewhere close to the roots, surrounded by vines. I wanted to smell the grapes and see the sun sink into the sparkling green leaves. Château de Sacy, just outside of Reims, turned out to be exactly that.

This luxury hotel selection property is located in the small commune of Sacy. It is completely surrounded by vineyards as far as the eye can see. This carefully restored old chateau has a fantastic kitchen, stunning decor, and a unique wellness centre. The historical charm is prominent throughout the property. The large windows are accented with heavy, heavy curtains, and brightly coloured velvet furniture is just as Marie-Antoinette would’ve ordered. Various paintings are scattered between floors. 

The Dining

The first-floor restaurant offers a 360 ° view of the surrounding vineyards (with a patio) and, as such, is a very popular spot for the nearby locals and visitors alike. Executive Chef Flora Mikula focuses on local quality products plated in the most elegant and appetising ways. This is French cuisine at its best. One floor up is the bar with equally phenomenal views and even cosier decor. If you opted in for breakfast (which I strongly recommend) it will be served in the bar lounge, spread across a harvest table with multiple levels of cheese, bread, and other artisanal goodies.

The Rooms

There are 12 rooms in the chateau. Each room is uniquely decorated with a mix of contemporary furniture and antiques. Our accommodations were all about sparkling glamour, from mirrors to lighting to the soaker tub (sans shower). Upon arrival, there were sweets on the table along with a lovely welcome message. What took my breath away immediately was the vineyard window view. Waking up in the morning, your eyes will catch the sun rising above the green bushes, casting golden flares across the room. A wonderful way to begin a new day of adventures. 

Wellness  

One of my favourite perks of this property is the Norwegian barrel baths. Set on the side of the chateau, the tubs offer a breathtaking panoramic view of Reims Mountain and the nearby village. Included in the hotel cost, the bath experience also comes with “table-side” service (at cost). As soon as we settled into the warm water, a hotel associate offered us some cold champagne to enjoy in the tub. The outdoor area is also outfitted with sunbathing beds. The indoor space, on the other hand, has a sauna and two treatment rooms. There is also a very cool-looking manual mini-gym. 

Château de Sacy
Rates starting at $350
Rue des Croisettes Sacy, 51500 France
Book directly with chateaudesacy-reims.fr or with your favourite booking website: Expedia | booking.com | TripAdvisor

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We are all strangers right now, masked, hesitant, and a little afraid. There is something about coming out into society after 18 months of isolation that makes us all a little jumpy and somewhat feral. But that all will change in a couple of hours.

After a brief introduction and a small history lesson on the spiral development of Parisian neighbourhoods (if you follow the numbers, you’ll see a snail shell), the small bits of history became an ongoing part of the tour but in a very unique way through culinary influences. Each country that invaded (or attempted to invade) France has introduced something new. Whether it be cheese or a cooking technique, many of these ‘gifts’ became staple dishes of France. Like, did you know that foie gras is originally Egyptian? It’s a fun story about fat flying ducks, but it’s a story you’ll have to hear from Stéphane, or me if you meet me in person and we share enough wine.

This article might contain affiliate links. Read the disclaimer about affiliate links & PR gifting here. 
The experience was gifted to me by Tinggly. 

Montmartre is a neighbourhood that was originally beyond the city wall. As such it was a neighbourhood of the people, where cultures mixed and everything was cheaper than in Paris ‘proper’. We went up the hill towards Sacré-Cœur Basilica and curved around it to the left starting our tour with freshly baked madeleines that our guide brought from his favourite bakery followed by a tasting stop at the Christophe Roussel macaron and chocolate shop. “French macarons are made with almond powder, unlike American which uses coconut,” pointed out Stéphane. Historic fun fact: macarons originally came from Persia. Down another colourful street, packed with cafes decorated with bushy flowers we stopped at the smallest Crêperie in Paris – La Crêperie Monami. Our guide spoke about the different flavors placing orders on our behalf and then ducked away to pick up fresh baguettes while we gleefully ate our warm crepes. 

Before heading to our final, secret spot, the group stopped by a Butcherie and a nearby cheese shop. The shop associate patiently walked us through the different types of cheeses, the craftsmanship of local cheesemakers, and various unique local flavours. Here artisanal craftsmanship is at the heart of everything. Any simplified mass production is frowned upon, even though it undoubtedly exists. If you have spent any leisurely time in Paris, you know you can always tell the locals by their shopping bags, packed with local goods from various stores, accentuated by pointy baguettes (if it’s not pointy, it’s not handmade, and that is also frowned upon). Now with 3 bags in hand – bread, cheese, meat – which we all took turns helping to carry, our group headed down an alleyway towards an undisclosed location for the last, and my favourite stop.

Slightly sweaty, a little tired, and undoubtedly hungry, we descended into a cellar. At the centre is a harvest table, wine and shopping bags placed on the side table, and various wine racks spread around the room – “damn, these folks are serious about wine,” I thought to myself. As we took turns washing our hands upstairs, Stéphane hustled, slicing the cheeses, arranging cold cuts, and opening wine bottles. Soon enough, we were all seated, quietly listening to the introductions and historical notes dotted with fun cultural remarks on how to properly eat baguettes (tear by hand in small pieces, never put the baguette upside down) and how we should never eat cheese with crackers (much like in kindergarten, we all had to repeat that statement 3 times).

Each mini-course was paired with wine: natural pairing is food and wine from the same region or alternatively, you can pair by intensity (light with light, heavy with heavy). We indulged in many flavourful and unique kinds of cheese, Burgundy and Bordeaux wines, dry sausages, cold cuts and pickles, ham with butter, and finished on a sweet note with 1st Cru of Cognac and chocolate eclairs (tip: what’s on the outside should also be on the inside). As time went on, crumbs and cheese rinds sprinkled around the table, empty bottles were cheerfully passed back to the host, and everyone in attendance lowered their defensive guards. The room got rowdier and louder, we were discussing the sharpness of the cheese, poking jokes at each other, and feeling like bad students for not paying attention to our foodie history lessons while remarking on individual likes and dislikes. 

Our experience lasted longer than the allotted time, but no one was even slightly peeved by it. By the end of ‘dinner’, we were all good friends, discussing travel plans and sharing tips, having a hard time separating, and if it wasn’t for the train mom and I needed to catch this party would’ve gone on till the end of the night. 

There are many different ways to experience a city and a culture, but this is certainly my favourite. Eating like a local, with a local, while learning customs and making friends is something that was missing from my life – everyone’s life at least in this group – for many months. It was a social gap, unfulfilled by sharp cheese and that feeling you get when a stranger becomes a person you’d like to hug. There is comfort and a wealth of experience that one could not possibly get in a shiny gift box of macarons, but after all, that is a difference between sharing and giving a souvenir – sharing is stories over meals, souvenirs are just magnets on the fridge.

* * *

Book the tour on secretfoodtours.com, sometimes there is a special offer for the drink upgrade.

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