I was promised mountain ranges and historic urban centres, but a quick web search for Chihuahua, Mexico, yielded minimal results and very little insight into what travelling there might be like. A sense of giddiness washed over me. This is a place not yet overcome by tourism, not (yet) existing in all the corners of social media, passing from lips to lips among patrons in trendy restaurants.
Chihuahua is the largest state in Mexico, bordering two US and three Mexican states. Overshadowed by the turquoise beaches of coastal Mexico and its very cool cousin, Ciudad de México, which nearly nine million people call home, the entire state of Chihuahua houses just under four million residents. But within that population sparsity lies its beauty.
After a brief stopover in Mexico City, we arrive at the state capital in the late afternoon. “This is a newer area of town, Distrito Uno,” Rita Meraz Ochoa, Visit Chihuahua tourism representative, shares with the group. This new area and the bustling restaurant strip along Vía Lombardía is my first memory of Chichuaha. My brightest memory of Chichuaha is propelling through the air 8,200 feet above sea level, but that’s days away, and I’m still not even sure I’ll do it.
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The trip was hosted by the Chihuahua Tourism Board; the DMO did not review or approve this story.
All images by Kateryna Topol.
Chihuahua, the capital city
The history of the state is deeply embedded in its cultural composition. Chihuahua became an official Mexican state in 1824. Within the next hundred years, it also became the centre of the Mexican Revolution, the outcome of which ended the dictatorship and established a constitutional republic of Mexico.
This history is visible throughout the capital city in art and architecture. From early cathedrals to museums, cultural and educational centres, and street art, the city is a feast for the eyes. The courtyard at the Museo Miguel Hidalgo, for example, paints a vivid picture of the Mexican War of Independence, focusing on the efforts of Miguel Hidalgo, an insurgent priest, who is now recognised as the Father of the Nation. A short walk along the vibrant Paseo Victoria leads to the Plaza de Armas, the heart of the city, where a 300-year-old Metropolitan Cathedral serves as a popular photo backdrop.
Above: Chihuahua Metropolitan Cathedral. Below: Paseo Victoria on the day of Claudia Sheinbaum Pardo inauguration.
Paseo Victoria has been closed to motor traffic since 2008. The street is dotted with shops and merchants during the day, but at night it transforms into a lively bar scene. On holidays, the street is lined with vendors from across the state making fresh tortillas on the spot and piping hot sugary churros to order.
Among the many architectural treasures in the city is the Quinta Gameros Cultural Centre and Restaurante La Casona. Years ago, La Casona was the private residence of General Luis Terrazas, who constructed the building in 1888 with incredible attention to detail. Each room has a theme and a name, and the main dining area, framed by two layers of arches and a glass roof, just might be the most romantic dining spot in the region.
Restaurante La Casona, Chihuahua City.
A few notes on the traditional feast
Due to its geographical location, Chihuahua’s culinary customs and traditions involve a lot of beef and cheese. Hard, melty cheese, asadero, produced by the Mennonites and goat cheese made by the Rarámuri are the main two. Burritos were created here during the revolution as a means to keep stews warm. A traditional burrito is minimal, with just meat and maybe one other ingredient rolled up into a tight cigar shape, and much like the simple taco, these simple burritos pack a punch of flavour.
Tacos, quesadillas, elotes, fajitas, and enchiladas are naturally very common. Staffed gorditas, soups, hot cheese plates, and other meat-heavy dishes are regional specialities found in family restaurants among an array of fine-dining establishments embracing world cuisines.
Arriero at Burritos “El Santuario” on the left, Elotes Dina stand in Chihuahua centre, followed by breakfast gorditas at Gorditas Lupita.
For our dose of traditional Mexican in Ciudad de Chihuahua, we head to Rico´s Tacos. From the outside, Rico´s Tacos doesn’t look like much, but inside it is a lively restaurant that feels spacious and intimate all at the same time. In no time, juicy tacos, scorching cheese skillets, cold beers, and oversized michelada cups begin to fill the table as we take turns grabbing hot sauces and other accoutrements from the kitchen bar. If this is a preview of meals to come, I am here to stay.
In addition to Mexican lagers and tequila, Chihuahua has their own specialities: sotol and wine. The mountainous climate is similar to that of Spain and works well for the production of red wines. The dessert side of the state is best suited for growing cacti used to make Sotol spirit, designated solely to this region. One of the locally prominent independent sotol producers, Oro De Coyame, makes for a great half-day trip from the capital city.
Dinner at Rico´s Tacos in Chihuahua City.
Ciudad Cuauhtémoc, home of the Mennonites
Cuauhtémoc is a gateway to the Sierra region and the City of Three Cultures because it serves as the meeting point for three ethnic groups: the Rarámuri, mestizos, and Mennonites. However, as the apple orchards begin to fill the scenery, we learn that the biggest population in the region are Mennonites. These are modern communities with technology, businesses, and the ability to choose their own path when it comes to marriage and religion. We came here for a short lesson in history and pizza.
Having lost thousands of people in the Mexican revolution, the Chihuahua government was in desperate need of working hands. Canadian Mennonite communities were struggling to hold on to their identity and welcomed Mexico’s invitation to immigrate and work in agriculture. Nearly 3,000 Mennonites, mostly from Manitoba, seeking religious freedom, settled in Chihuahua. This population has since grown, and with it the production of cheese and apples, though Mennonite businesses now extend beyond agriculture.
Known in most of Mexico as asadero, in Chihuahua it is referred to simply as Mennonite cheese. The local factory opened in 1978 and today processes nearly two tonnes of cheese per day by a humble group of 30 people. The altitude and cooler climate create an ideal environment for apple growth (mostly red delicious), so the state has become a major apple-producing region in Mexico, all harvested by hand.
Having tasted the cheese, admired the orchards, and stocked up on cookies in Ana’s home, we head to the main attraction – Pizzeria Los Arcos Cuauhtémoc. The robust menu is a list of eleven pizzas, pastas, and other cheesy deliciousness served with pickled chillies for the hot kick. This isn’t a take on your typical Italian pizza, no. It is a local speciality highlighting the ooey gooey fresh cheese and the Chihuahua’s dairy industry.
A passage to the Rarámuri lands
The route to Creel passes Arareco Lake in San Ignacio de Arareco, a mountain lake surrounded by acres of pine and oak forests. In the parking lot, traditionally dressed Rarámuri vendors are selling colourful crafts and pottery. Rarámuri, also called Tarahumara, are the largest Indigenous community in Chihuahua with deep cultural roots and close ties to nature. Pre-arrival of the Spanish, there were over 200 indigenous groups in the region. Today, there are five.
The lake is silky smooth, reflecting the forestry like a mirror, cows grazing on the shore. The scenic lake break is followed by a visit to La Misión de San Ignacio de Arareko, a religious and cultural site, home to annual celebrations like Semana Santa (Holy Week), and a gathering space for the Rarámuri. The 50,000 acres surrounding the mission are Rarámuri land containing family homes and a school, sparsely spread across the protected lands.
Creel is best known as the starting point for Copper Canyon, but before we get there, our driver Sergio Torres (Rarámuri Tours) wants to show us “a spot”. Pulling into another parking lot we are greeted by Rarámuri, and while Rita hands out candy to the kids, we follow Sergio to a clearing. As he begins to casually climb the hill, we all come to stand, dumbfounded by the spectacular views of the Valle de los Monjes (Valley of the Monks).
Sand-coloured smooth rocks larger than life, weaving through the valley, give rise to peculiar rock formations. Tall and shaped by centuries of winds, they look like praying figures, flowering greenery creating a much-needed contrast at their base. The cloudy sky begins to clear, letting through the hot golden hour beams, recolouring the trees into surreal shades. A painter’s paradise.
From here on, Sergio became known to us as the guy who knows a guy. As in “You want to ride a horse to the hotel from the park? I know a guy” guy.
The small town of Creel is Chihuahua’s own Pueblo Mágico, one of five in the state. Chepe Express Train brings a lot of tourism to the town, making it the primary industry for the area, next to lumber. The town centre can be walked slowly in an hour or less. Rows of colourful houses outline the main street leading to the town square, with a charming gazebo at the centre.
A hearty meal and a restful night’s sleep can be found at The Lodge at Creel, a family-owned hotel, restaurant, and microbrewery. On the group menu is a three-course meal: soup, choice of main (tacos of course!), and dessert (hot apple pie tonight). By this time, my travel companions are good friends, sharing Chihuahua wines with me over engaging conversation.
Creel city centre and a Rarámuri man posing for visitors’ photos.
A change of scenery in Cerocahui
The drive continues up, introducing the first views of Copper Canyon, a series of massive canyons in the Sierra Madre Occidental mountains. Another stop for a scenic spot takes us to Catalina’s house, a Rarámuri curandero (healer) who welcomes our group with a cheerful handshake and a big smile. Rarámuri have their own language, but Catalina also speaks Spanish and offers us healing sessions in a small room set into a cave looking over the mountains. One by one, my travel companions leave this room in the feels, reflecting on their conversation with the curandero for hours to follow.
Cerocahui is a vineyard town, best known for Jesuit Mission of Francis Xavier, dating back to 1632. The nearby Hotel Misión de Cerocahui, accordingly named, is a vineyard hotel and a destination of its own. Chihuahua’s wine-making history is rooted in these old vineyards, shipping the bottles across the state. The hotel’s culinary program matches the scenic expectations, serving up three-course intricate meals for both lunch and dinner. Satiated after the afternoon feast, the vineyard views and the effervescent pool call me by name for some downtime while half of our group takes a drive to the Cerro del Gallego viewpoint. Set 2,400 meters above sea level, the platform opens to a breathtaking view of one of the deepest ravines, Urique, 1,879 meters in length.
The majestic Copper Canyon
The drive up the mountain begins to get steeper and steeper. Curvy, bumpy roads take us through small towns, offering a sneak peek into local life through colourful murals. The drive finally comes to a halt at Parque de Aventura Barrancas del Cobre (Copper Canyon Adventure Park) – this is the stop we’ve all been anticipating most.
The canyon spans over 25,000 square miles of Sierra Madre Mountains. Locally known as Barrancas del Cobre, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, bringing an average of 25,000 visitors to Chihuahua annually. Compared to Grand Canyon’s 5 million annual visitors, this is a much less crowded alternative.
The excitement in the car goes up a notch, discussing activities and levels of bravery required for some activities over others. The main draw for the park is the 2,500-meter-long zipline (the ZipRider). On the activity menu are also a seven- and three-zipline circuits, via ferrata, treetop adventure, and a scenic cablecar ride. I’ve been thinking about my choice for a month, and today is the day I decide to be brave.
As soon as the gate slid open, my body launched into the air, streaming down a zipline 1,500 feet above the canyon floor. I intuitively screamed, quickly realising there was no need to panic. My grip loosened and I leaned back into the cushiony floating pocket, taking in the endless mountain ridges around me while gently descending to a distant hilltop.
This picturesque ride took three minutes and ended safely at the foot of a hike leading to the cable car platform. A small Rarámuri shopping village is at the top, inviting tourists to purchase local crafts, one of the main income streams for the indigenous communities. Down in the parking lot, Sergio is waiting for us with a guy with a horse.
Rarámuri Alta homes and gardens in Barrancas del Cobre, Chihuahua.
Having settled in at Hotel Mirador with direct views of the previously mentioned ziplines, Rita takes us on a “little walk”. Trailing down the narrow pathways along the mountain, I’m tempted to constantly stop and take pictures while questioning my footwear choice for the activity. “Where I’m from, we’d call this a hike Rita,” I jokingly comment. “No, no. It’s just a little walk,” she answers with a chuckle, leading us to the small mountain-side Rarámuri village.
The communities living up in the mountains are referred to as Rarámuri Alta. Their homes are built into the mountain with vegetable gardens growing on the edge. They are a part of Copper Canyon’s history and culture and continue to preserve its essence, sharing their customs, crafts, and gastronomy with the visitors.
Our dinner is another three-course meal paired with wines from Vinos Misión. The local hosts strongly advise an early morning to observe the sunrise over Copper Canyon, so with the sun we woke. Every room has a balcony with a view, and as we slowly settled on ours, the sun began its colour performance, painting the sky from purple to hot orange and mountains from charcoal grey to copper red.
Trying to take in every moment, I took my morning coffee on the terrace, enjoying the view and manifesting a return.
Chihuahua trip planner
Chihuahua, Mexico, is a beautiful state with a spectacular natural and cultural range. During our October visit, it was mostly warm and sunny with slightly cooler temperatures overnight in the mountains. The state is safe for travel and open to tourism, be it group trips, self-driving adventures, or train travel.
From Canada, the best way to travel to Chihuahua is with Aeromexico with a single stopover in Mexico City (operated in partnership with Westjet). American Airlines, operated by Envoy Air, also flies to Chihuahua with a stopover in Dallas Fort Worth International Airport (DFW), from both Canada and the USA.
You can find several Chihuahua hotel reviews here on the website and more ideas on the ¡Ah Chihuahua! official tourism website.
