CanadaFood & Drink

John Sleeman & Sons: The family that wouldn’t stay erased

There is a specific kind of alchemy that occurs when a forgotten industrial relic is jolted back to life. It is the architectural equivalent of a heartbeat returning to a stone facade; a preservation of the past that refuses to remain a museum piece. Inside John Sleeman & SonsSpring Mill Distillery, the atmosphere is a curated collision of eras. Here, the scent of fermenting grain hangs heavy in the air, drifting between 19th-century limestone walls that have been reclaimed from the silence of Guelph’s historic Ward. For the Sleeman family, this isn’t merely a production site—it is a sensory manifesto, proving that the most resilient heritage buildings are those that still have work to do.

John Sleeman speaking on a tour of Spring Mill Distillery. Image by Kateryna Topol.

John Sleeman & Sons’ whisky selection lined up at The Ward Bar at Spring Mill Distillery.
Image by Kateryna Topol.

The forbidden legacy:
“The ink of an old recipe book”

The Sleeman lineage is defined by a rebellious streak stretching back to the late 1700s. The family’s predecessors were privateers in Cornwall, England—maritime adventurers who operated with the edge of a pirate but the legal veneer of a government commission. When privateering was no longer viable, they transitioned into the pub trade. One descendant, John H. Sleeman, brought this defiant spirit to Canada, establishing a brewery in 1834 and the original Spring Mill Distillery in 1836.

While the 1836 distillery was a separate enterprise, the family has now brought that name to the restored Allan’s Mill building. By the 1850s, industrial pollution had forced the original distilling operations to cease. The family’s penchant for the forbidden resurfaced during Prohibition, leading to a notorious smuggling operation that made Sleeman beer a staple in Chicago’s underground. The consequences were severe; in 1933, the family was officially stripped of their brewing license for 50 years.

A central artefact in this comeback is a weathered family recipe book, held by an aunt during the 1933 crackdown and preserved for a future generation. “We tell lots of stories there,” Cooper Sleeman says of the family’s history, noting that the book served as the map for his father, John Sleeman, to reclaim the family business in 1988, notably for their famous cream ale. While the book focuses on beer, it serves as the philosophical map for John Sleeman & Sons’ current commitment to quality.

Cooper Sleeman at the Spring Mill Distillery. Image by Kateryna Topol

The alchemy of copper:
“If you don’t ask, you don’t get”

To honour this legacy, the family turned to Richard Forsyth of Scotland, the world’s premier still maker. The family spent eighteen months convincing him that Spring Mill was a worthy home for his craft. Copper is a sacrificial metal, essential for scrubbing harsh sulfurs from the liquid during the boil. In the Spring Mill stillroom, these Scottish stills work in tandem with local Ontario grain to produce a spirit of sophisticated smoothness. Cooper believes in the power of persistence, citing the family motto passed down from his father: “If you don’t ask, you don’t get”. It is this mindset that secured the world-class equipment now sitting in the Ward.

A sibling’s labour:
Forging the Ontario oak narrative

If the stills are the heart, the cooperage is the hand. Quinn Sleeman, younger brother to Cooper, has taken on the apprenticeship of a dying art, focusing on the rare use of Canadian white oak barrels, seasoned in the rain and snow for eighteen months for select premium releases. Quinn’s barrels are reserved for the Cooper’s Rye—a name that serves as a playful double-entendre for both the craft and the family name. The labour is intensive, a manual process of assembly that demands total precision. Cooper views this side of the business as a lesson in patience, and Quinn’s first batch was a testament to that endurance. Having mastered the trade, Quinn’s work now represents the literal bottling of the Ontario landscape.

The modern steward:
Adapting to the surge

Today, Cooper Sleeman acts as the bridge between the privateer mythology of the 1700s and the modern market. He is attentive to the changing habits of the consumer, particularly the meteoric rise of Ready-To-Drink (RTD) options and the growing demand for zero-alcohol beverages. Spring Mill’s most popular RTD—a Ginger Lime Mule—was born from a simple request by his mother for a high-quality “mule in a can”. Beyond traditional spirits, the distillery is identifying the “all the rage” trend of non-alcoholic alternatives, ensuring they remain agile by leveraging the wider Sleeman network. “We have lots and lots and lots of whiskey that we put down,” Cooper says, but the modern portfolio must meet the demand for versatility alongside that traditional heritage.

Writer Nupur Singh on a tour of Spring Mill Distillery. Image by Kateryna Topol.

The lingering spirit:
A future in the making

As John Sleeman & Sons moves through 2026, the momentum is tangible. Their wine-cask-aged single malt recently took top honours at the National Whisky Awards, winning best single cask in Canada—a win that validates their patient approach. As Cooper notes, “whiskey ages with the seasons,” and this evolution informs their upcoming high-profile launches, including an Irish-inspired whiskey for St. Patrick’s Day. This agility is backed by a formidable engine; since 1988, the company has grown into Canada’s third-largest brewer. By managing a high-contrast portfolio—from the artisanal depths of Unibroue to the global reach of Sapporo—the family remains hyper-tuned to the market, using their diverse fleet to stay ahead of the next big thing.

Today, the history of Spring Mill Distillery is a tactile experience rather than a static archive. The distillery invites people to step inside the original walls for guided tours, where visitors can witness the labour of the stills and the precision of the cooperage firsthand. Beyond the technical craft, it has become a cornerstone of the Ward’s social fabric. Guests can linger at the onsite pub to sample the “Cooper’s Rye” or enjoy a “Fresh Ginger Lime Mule”. By opening their doors, the family isn’t just reclaiming a name, they have created a space where the community can sit down and raise a glass with a legacy that refused to stay erased.

The Ward Bar at Spring Mill Distillery, open Tuesday through Sunday. Image by Kateryna Topol.

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