Devour! A festival born from vision

In the early 2010s, iconic Nova Scotia chef Michael Howell and film industry veteran Lia Rinaldo, known for her leadership at the Atlantic Film Festival, shared a fundamental belief: food was more than just a matter of sustenance, and film was more than simple entertainment. With that, a seed was planted, and it was at this moment when Howell and Rinaldo embarked on a quest to create an experimental festival. 

The inaugural fest was small yet charming – indicative of Wolfville itself. But Howell and Rinaldo’s respected ranks in their respective arenas played a big role when it came to impact. Chef-led dinners, hands-on workshops, community gatherings, and culinary-inspired movie screenings injected immediate excitement, and word spread quickly about the festival’s authentic, wholesome flair. As time passed, many prolific names attended, including Sam Kass (former White House chef for the Obamas), and even Anthony Bourdain. 

2025 marked the 15^th anniversary of Devour! Guests come from far and wide not only to immerse themselves with feature films and flavours, but celebrate taste and storytelling in a community already known for its welcoming nature, and agricultural ethos. 

Images courtesy of Devour! Festival.

Why Wolfville & Devour! go hand-in-hand

Nova Scotia is already famous for its delicious experiences, including the Lobster Trail, Chowder Trail, Cheese Trail, and Good Cheer Trail. Beer and cider are big here, as is wine. The province’s viticultural roots date back to the early 17^th century, and today boasts varietals including Baco Noir and L’Acadie Blanc. Besides being home to the nearby Grand-Pre UNESCO World Heritage Site, Wolfville is considered to be the province’s agricultural heartland with everything from roadside farmer’s markets to coastal culinary experiences and wine tours – all featuring local flavours. 

When it comes to the big screen, Denton Hall on the Acadia University campus is home to galas and special events, while the Al Whittle Theatre, opened in 1911, is the hub for most of the 47 screenings that were shown in 2025. Its historic charm, and community initiatives to resurrect it complements the festival’s theme perfectly. Since reopening in 2004, it’s become Wolfville’s cultural hub and is very much woven into the heart of the town’s historic, and independent cinematic soul. Like Devour!, the theatre is a celebratory symbol of heritage, culture and place. 

Left: Image by Alison Slattery, courtesy of Tourisme Montréal. Right: Danny Smiles, Le Violon. Image courtesy of Devour! Festival.

Michelin-starred experiences

The 15^th edition of Devour! treated guests to both local culinary connoisseurs and Michelin-starred chefs from Montreal. Le Caveau restaurant played host to a curated three-course luncheon inspired by Bistro La Franquette’s Renee Deschene-O’Hagan and chef Elias Deligianis, while at Lightfoot Vineyards, acclaimed chefs Emma Cardarelli and Chris Pyne showcased seasonal, autumnal ingredients resulting in exquisite flavours. Workshops from Danny Smiles (Le Violon), Massimo Piedimonte (Cabaret l’Enfer), and sommelier Ryan Gray (Nora Gray, Elena, Gia Vin & Grill) were immersive, engaging, and informative. 

Chef Jean-Sebastien Giguere (La Cabane du Coureur) added a touch of home-grown sweetness to brunch thanks to his maple-infused delights. In the afternoon, Eastern Canada’s most talented chefs competed for most innovative poutine, while at the Wolfville Farmer’s Market, a lobster-themed ‘Fais-to-do’ blended street market energy with culinary celebration and communal dining fun. Every event, talk, and workshop reflected the festival’s aim of combining local flavours, tips and tricks, and storytelling with a personal touch.

Devour! global stature & Enduring legacy

What started in Wolfville has expanded globally. In 2019 alone, there were 19 satellite events, including throughout Canada, the USA, Germany, and Portugal. An increasingly popular spinoff takes place in the Bahamas. In February 2026, Green Turtle Cay will host the 6^th Annual Devour! The Beach, a tropical winter getaway that combines food and film with uniquely local experiences. No matter the location, each Devour! has one goal in mind: to celebrate the collective human experience, to go deeper with the aim of inspiring compassion with emotional, impactful storytelling through food and film. 

Devour! favourites

As a fan of food, film and the combination thereof, Devour! was divine! If the goal was to experience, savour and appreciate the finer, more detailed nuances of what it takes to create a masterpiece on a plate or on film, Devour! left me salivating and satiated. Sure, the dishes were delicious, the films moving, but I found myself impacted most when young directors excitedly shared spontaneous, unrehearsed exuberance about their latest film project, and when seasoned pros gathered young students together, and instructed them on how to best crack a lobster for diners unfamiliar with how to eat them (thank you). 

What struck the biggest chord was the 10^th annual Great Devour! Community Cajun Chicken Supper, supporting regional food banks in the Annapolis Valley.  “We’ll serve thousands of free meals to those who need it the most today,” chef Michael tells me. “It’s not only about inviting chefs and screening films, it’s about giving back to this community – healthy meals to food-insecure residents while promoting health and agriculture”. 

Author: Jim Bamboulis
@travelmammal

Jim Bamboulis is a content creator with 25 years of experience as a TV host and producer, Travel Journalist, and Podcaster. He has created travel and food videos for Lonely Planet and contributes to various international publications. Jim hosts the Fact Up Podcast, a travel show exploring destinations and local culture. He runs Mazee, a business offering Greek gift baskets and online cooking classes. A passionate traveller and outdoor enthusiast, Jim believes in balancing adventure with great food.

The post Inside Nova Scotia’s Devour! Food & Film Fest: Where taste meets story appeared first on Paths to Travel.

About Day of the Dead

Day of the Dead (Día de los Muertos) is a holiday rooted in pre-Hispanic rituals and Catholic traditions. Celebrated on November 1 and 2, it honours the souls of children and adults who have passed away. Through altars, offerings, flowers, food, and gatherings, families welcome spirits back for a brief reunion. It is a deeply spiritual and joyous festival, reflecting Mexico’s unique approach to life and death.

Marigold flowers (cempasúchil), seen on the left, are considered the flower of the dead and add colour and fragrance to the festivities. All images courtesy of Visit Mexico.

But Mexico City is not the only place to celebrate Day of the Dead. Celebrations are actively taking place throughout Mexico, with each region adding its own unique flavours and rituals. Find your own Day of the Dead adventure in one of these smaller regions, each offering immersive experiences that showcase regional traditions.

Oaxaca

Perhaps the most famous destination outside the capital, Oaxaca comes alive with comparsa parades in its cobblestone streets. Locals dress as skeletons, brass bands play through the night, and markets overflow with pan de muerto and sugar skulls. Cemeteries become places of gathering as families decorate graves with candles, flowers, and offerings.

Pátzcuaro, Michoacán

On the shores of Lake Pátzcuaro, the Purepecha community observes an intimate and spiritual ritual. Families light thousands of candles to guide spirits back to the world of the living, while the island of Janitzio becomes a glowing beacon seen across the lake. This atmospheric celebration is deeply tied to Indigenous tradition and is one of the most poignant experiences in Mexico.

San Andrés Mixquic, Mexico State

Just outside Mexico City, this small town is renowned for its Alumbrada on November 2. As night falls, cemeteries blaze with candlelight, transforming the grounds into a shimmering tribute to departed souls. Families maintain vigil, often sharing food, music, and stories late into the night.

Mérida, Yucatán

Here, the holiday takes the form of Hanal Pixán, or food for the souls. Rooted in Maya tradition, this celebration features altars laden with regional specialities like mucbipollo, a large tamale baked underground. The streets of Mérida host processions, while families gather in cemeteries to honour their ancestors.

Find a hotel

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The national finals and international finals are a multi-day competition, culminating with the final challenge during which the winner is named in real time. The winning bartender becomes the face of World Class, travelling the world for international competitions as a judge and hosting pop-up events and learning sessions for the international bar community. Needless to say, the competition is not for amateurs. Bartenders train for months in advance and often enter multiple years in a row for a chance at the title. In 2024, Keegan McGregor from Halifax took the global title; the year before, Jacob Martin from Toronto went all the way on his first try.

The final challenge, even on the national scale, is a huge celebration. Friends, family, and the public are invited to witness the competition rounds in person while sipping cocktails created by previous years’ winners. “World Class celebrates innovation, craftsmanship, and the extraordinary talent that shapes the global bartending community,” commented Michael Armistead, Diageo Canada’s National Reserve and Sponsorship Manager. “Every year, we are thrilled to contribute to the evolution of cocktail culture and hospitality in Canada, creating memorable experiences for guests,” he added.

For the first time in the history of competition, Global World Class Finals are coming to Canada. The events will take place from September 28th to October 2nd in Toronto, welcoming 56 global finalists and over 1,000 international guests. To kickstart the celebration, multiple venues across Canada have added cocktail creations from past global and national winners to their menus in a month-long celebration called World Class Cocktail Festival. Throughout the competition week, industry members will also have access to The Industry Forum on September 29 and a series of cocktail labs on September 28th and October 2nd.

Diageo World Class Canadian winners: Kaitlyn Stewart (2017, middle image), James Grant (2021, middle image). Jacob Martin (2023, on the left) and Keegan McGregor (2024, on the right). Image courtesy of CNW Group/Diageo.

World Class Cocktail Festival

World Class Cocktail Festival is taking place from August 16th to October 3rd across Canada. Participating bars are spread across Calgary, Edmonton, Vancouver, Whistler, Penticton, Halifax, Toronto, Montréal, and Saskatoon. As host city, Toronto will welcome guest shifts by the world’s best bartenders across its best bars, host special events, and offer drink experiences. Start dates vary per location.

See the map of all participating cocktail festival venues coast to coast across Canada.

Consumer events & Pop-up bars

Ketel One After Dark
September 27 to October 1
Dineen Coffee Co., 140 Yonge St, Toronto
Featuring Benja Padron Novoa, Lorenzo Antorini, Kate Boushel, Jimmy Greek
Tickets & reservations

For 5 nights only, Ketel One After Dark unites the baristas from Dineen Coffee Co. and globally acclaimed bartenders to create the perfect cocktail. The immersive after-hours cocktail event spotlights their expertise and craft to serve up the most incredible Espresso Martinis that Toronto has ever seen. A dynamic and interactive celebration that will show the art and dedication behind each serve.

Don Julio 1942 Mini Bar Speakeasy Experience
September 28 to October 1
NOBU, 25 Mercer St., Toronto
Featuring Israel Baron
Tickets & reservations

This exclusive event invites guests to an intimate mini bar designed for two, hidden within NOBU’s luxurious ambience. Here, guests will witness the mastery of Israel Baron, Mexico’s World Class cocktail competition winner, as he crafts bespoke cocktails using Don Julio 1942 minis. Complementing this journey is a choice of gourmet appetisers from NOBU’s renowned menu, curated to enhance each moment of indulgence.

Guest shifts in bars across Canada

World Class Labs

Born to Ferment: An engaging session led by renowned mixologists, Massimo Zitti and Erik Lorincz. This lab will explore the application of fermentation techniques in a drink program, Lacto-fermentation vs Forced fermentation vs Symbiotic fermentation, and the sustainable aspects of fermentation.
Sunday, September 28th, 10:30 AM – 12 PM
Mother Cocktail Bar – 874 Queen St W, Toronto, ON
Tickets

The Art of Distillation: An insightful session featuring Massimo Zitti, Eric van Beek, and a Buchi Engineer. This lab will delve into how the Buchi Roto Evaporator works and how it can significantly contribute to a cocktail program.
Sunday, September 28th, 1:00 PM – 2:30 PM
Mother Cocktail Bar – 874 Queen St W, Toronto, ON
Tickets

The Art of No & Low: Presented by Seedlip and led by industry experts, Kaitlyn Stewart and Christina Veira. This lab will discuss the change in consumer behaviour with the rise of moderation, how to craft balanced & flavourful No & Low cocktails, and the benefits of elevated No & Low cocktails.
Sunday, September 28th, 3:00 PM – 4:30 PM
Civil Works – 50 Brant St, Toronto, ON
Tickets

Iconic Martinis: The Tomatini, the Espresso Martini, & the Filthy Martini. This lab will feature Dennis Tamse and Lorenzo Antinori as they discuss the techniques and the stories behind these three iconic cocktails.
Thursday, October 2nd, 10:00 AM – 11:30 AM
Civil Works – 50 Brant St, Toronto, ON
Tickets

Water – A Deep Dive: Join Dr. Emma Walker, Tim Philips-Johansson, and Nick Kennedy for an exploration of how Scotland’s diverse waters, and unique habitats influence the flavor profiles in Johnny Walker Blue Label through tastings with three different waters.
Thursday, October 2nd, 12:15 PM – 1:45 PM
Civil Works – 50 Brant St, Toronto, ON
Tickets

Layers of Harmony: Lorena Vasquez and Vanessa Leon will lead attendees through a series of curated pairings using Ron Zacapa, exploring the principles behind certain combinations and how to translate these ingsights into cocktail & culinary design.
Thursday, October 2nd, 2:30 PM – 4:00 PM
Civil Works – 50 Brant St, Toronto, ON
Tickets

Competition events

Over the course of the week, competitors will be pushed to demonstrate precision, creativity, and storytelling, all while showcasing their mastery of iconic Diageo Reserve brands such as Johnnie Walker, Don Julio, Ketel One, and Tanqueray No. TEN. The competition challenges can be gruelling and often take place behind closed doors or by invitation only.

Tuesday, September 30th

• Hop Scotch challenge with Johnnie Walker Black Label. The competitors are tasked with re-imagining a classic cocktail through the transformative power of scotch with a three-serve menu: one long drink, one short serve, and a one straight-up cocktail.
• Modern Icon challenge with Tanqueray No. TEN. The task is to create a brand-new modern classic, taking inspiration from a golden moment in history, something that brings a smile or something that has changed the world for the better.
• Digital Galeria challenge with Don Julio 1942. Bartenders are challenged to create a drink that represents their personal artwork. Judges, finalists, and guests will come together to enjoy mini 1942 cocktails inspired by the bartenders’ interpretation of personalised AI-generated artworks.

Wednesday, October 1st

• The Sensory Sessions with The Singleton of Dufftown 21-Year-Old. Multisensory cocktail experience where music and mixology converge to create unforgettable moments. Competitors will design a custom record sleeve, press a track and pair it with a signature Singletong cocktail.
• Farmhouse challenge with Ketel One. This is a secret challenge, but historically, Ketel One challenges have a sustainable component.

The top 10 finalists will be announced at the end of the day.

Thursday, October 2nd

• Semi-final: Top 10 challenge
• Final: Top 3 challenge. This event will be livestreamed on the World Class YouTube channel from 19:30 EDT. Follow @worldclass and @worldclasscanada for updates.

The global winner is announced at the end of the day. Surrounded by their friends and family, the winner will step into their new role showered with cheers, confetti, and champagne.

The post Everything you need to know about the Diageo Global World Class Finals in Toronto appeared first on Paths to Travel.

It is also important to point out that you don’t have to be a whisky connoisseur to attend and enjoy these festivities. It is open to everyone, even children. Though at least an interest in whisky is recommended, of course.  

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What is Fèis Ìle and where is Islay?

Hosted annually during the last week of May, Fèis Ìle is an island-wide festival celebrating whisky and Islay culture. The festival and the spirit of Islay are much intertwined. The island’s peaty terroir lends itself to unique whiskies, which have been a fixture here since 1779 (Bowmore).

Fèis Ìle has risen to international renown, attracting tourists and whisky lovers from around the globe. The locals often relish in sharing how the island’s population (typically 3,000) can triple during the festival. As an attendee, you are encouraged to explore the island, meet the locals, dance, drink, and be merry. 

For the festival’s 10-day span, each distillery takes a turn hosting, usually between 10 AM and 6 PM. Common features include music, local food, and whisky education. Each distillery day is unique, a reflection of its history and the distillery’s character. Lagavulin, with its 200-year-old site and breathtaking views of the Southern Islay shores, hosts walking tours and cellar tastings of venerable whiskies. Bruichladdich, on the other hand, is the day every islander looks forward to most: a giant party with a full-fledged concert, multiple drink tents, and a dozen food vendors, all hosted in the distillery’s massive central courtyard.

Another major Festival draw: the coveted limited edition special releases. Each distillery produces a 3,000-6,000-bottle run for Fèis Ìle that can only be purchased there directly from distilleries and a small number of retailers on Islay. The famed distilleries have lineups that stretch across the street with people ready to purchase these one-of-a-kind liquids. You do get to taste these at the events, so if you find a bottle you are fond of, get two: one to drink, and one to store.

There are a few unspoken rules to participation in Fèis Ìle, but they are easy to follow:

1. Be nice: meet locals, meet visitors, get to know people, and make friends. The people make the festival.
2. Don’t just focus on the whisky: while it is commonly referred to as the world’s biggest whisky festival Fèis Ìle is much more than that. It is a celebration of Islay and an equally big event for the locals. So eat the food, dance to the music, and see the island.
3. Have a great time. That’s all.

All kinds of booking notes

Planning for Fèis Ìle is a dance of research and anticipation. You must match your desired days to available accommodation stays. But that’s not all, you must also match those with the ferry schedule. I understand it might be overwhelming, but don’t forget – you are travelling to rural Scotland! Also, it will all be worth it.

1. Booking accommodations

These get reserved well ahead of time, often years in advance – yes Fèis Ìle is a big deal. It is also a small island, and the number of people here during the festival week could triple, so you see the dilemma. When we travelled, we booked very late and, quite frankly, got lucky. Not all 9 days might be available in the same spot. And to be honest, you might not want to stay for all 9 days, that’s just mental. The program doesn’t get released until much closer to the festival week, so your trip duration and dates will, more than likely, be based on the accommodations available

You must stay on Islay, so pay attention to where the location of the hotel is if you are using a booking site (ie, Expedia, TripAdvisor, Booking). There is also a high chance you might see nothing available on these websites, but don’t panic. A nearly full list of island accommodations can be found on islayinfo.com. Few listings will have an online calendar, and more likely, you will need to email a handful of places to see if they still have open dates.

Accomodations include a few hotels, a few Inns and B&Bs, and a selection of self-catering (vacation) rentals. Among high-end hotels are the recently opened Ardbeg House (luxury), Another Place, The Machrie (Expedia) and Islay House (TripAdvisor), both of which have a golf course, as well as The Bidgend Hotel. Bowmore Hotel is a staple because of the pub where locals gather nightly, the rooms are maximised for sleeping space with bunk beds. The Lochside Hotel (Bowmore) also has an on-site restaurant and a more classic room layout (TripAdvisor).

If all fails, there is camping. People camp for the full duration of the festival and often move their tents along with the daily programming. Too far to hike to Lagavulin? No bother, camp outside of the distillery. More info on camping can be found here. 

2. Booking travel

Flight + Car 

There is an airport on Islay that you can fly to from Glasgow (Loganair), but it is a rather infrequent weekly flight and a fairly small plane. There are also neighbouring airports in Colonsay and Oban (Hebridean Air Services), with similar limitations. The easiest option is to fly or take a train to a larger city (Glasgow, Edinburgh) and rent a car from there. We landed in London, took the train to Glasgow, and drove from there. You can even rent a car and leave it in another city to mix up your trip.

Tip: Get a local SIM card at the airport on arrival to the UK or purchase an eSIM plan ahead of time (learn about eSIMs).

Ferry to Islay

Islay is an island, and the only way (other than the tiny plane, of course) to get there is by sea. The ferry is operated by Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac), and they share the summer schedule in advance, so you can book it well ahead of time as well. CalMac also recommends you pay attention to the status updates, which you can sign up for by text or see in the CalMac app. The most popular departure point from the mainland is Kennacraig on West Loch Tarbert, which lands at Port Ellen or Port Askaig. If you rent a car, it goes on the ferry, of course. 

Quick tip: You will not have access to the car for the duration of the ferry journey, so take all you need with you right away.

The ferry journey is about 2 hours. The boat is quite impressive. Upon entry, you will see a large chandelier and a mini-casino – yeah, I know! On the lower level is also a shop and a few booths to relax in. A grand staircase will take you to the main deck. Up there are a lot of sitting areas and a cafe with pretty good food, I must admit. But you know, bring your snacks if you can, and a game or a book to kill time with. The ferry has an outdoor deck (two levels), and it does get quite windy up there. Keep an eye out for the water because you might spot some whales. See pricing here. 

Important notes:

• Check-in is 30 minutes prior to departure for vehicles and 10 minutes for foot passengers
• Make a reservation ahead of time, they do sell out
• If anything happens, call them: 0800 066 5000 (we had to)

3. Booking events 

You do not need tickets to attend Fèis Ìle, most distillery days are open. But you do need tickets for special events. Throughout the week, there are many events, some run by distilleries and Fèis Ìle officials. Distillery events will be released directly by them, so follow them for updates. Official festival event tickets are released at the beginning of January/February (could be later) and dropped on various dates over the next couple of months. I strongly recommend you sign up for the festival newsletter and follow them on social media so you don’t miss any notifications.

Things to keep in mind:

• There is a time difference between Scotland and North America, so the newsletter will arrive at unusual times. This can also be attributed to the fact that the entire thing is organised by one small committee, really mostly one guy.
• Their website is not super mobile-friendly, you might have issues with your credit card type or browser. So if any issues occur, try a different browser, try a different card, try a different device, need be, try someone else’s phone. We had to do all of the above.
• The tickets sell out fast, if you see one, stop whatever you’re doing and buy it. I mean it. The festival’s Instagram or newsletter would often mention when tickets go on sale, so I would set an alarm and watch my inbox in anticipation. 

More on the Fèis Ìle events

Each day is dedicated to a single distillery that will host the celebrations in the manner they choose. The festival releases the program on the website, and some events might be added quite late in the season. There is always a public opening event with performances from local dance troupes, bands, and pied pipers. The pied pipers appear around villages throughout the week, unannounced as well, which I loved. Do visit the website frequently as more details are added often, and it might include those rather important shuttle and ticket notes. 

Other distilleries are open during the week, too, so it can be a good opportunity to pop in somewhere you might not get a chance to visit another day. Additionally, some years there are off-distillery events celebrating Islay life and ingenuity in other ways. Lagavulin always hosts on day two (opening the event) while Ardbeg tends to close.

There are nine active distilleries on Islay and a number of “lost” distilleries, no longer active, but remnants of them are still present and historically significant. The distilleries are spread across the island, but three of them are located nearly side by side: Ardbeg, Lagavulin, and Laphroaig are all within walking distance from Port Ellen. 

Lagavulin Distillery

Lagavulin always opens the festival, and this was hands down our favourite event. In addition to the public open house, they host a wide array of special activities. Last year, for example, our morning started with a rather special cellar tasting led by Ian McArthur.

McArthur retired a few years ago but had worked at the distillery warehouse for nearly 50 years prior to his departure. A group of us gathered in a cellar around five barrels, which we got to taste over friendly banter. This being my first time on Islay intrigued Ian, so he invited me up to pipe out a 17-year-old sherry cask straight from the barrel. The entire video is here if you want to see me struggle.

One of the other tours we did at ‘Laga’ involved a little stroll around the property to a fantastic view of the distillery in its full glory. Our guides, Ervin Trykowski (Global Single Malt Whisky Ambassador, Diageo) and Ewan Gunn (Senior Global Brand Ambassador, Diageo), shared stories about the village and whisky while offering scenic samples on the go.

Bruichladdich Distillery

From the day we descended on Islay, nearly everyone brought up the Bruichladdich day. This re-imagined Victorian distillery produces wonderful classic whisky packaged in turquoise bottles with heavy modern lettering – a departure from tradition.

For their distillery day, Bruichladdich hosts a festival called Rock’Ndall. People lined up on a hill early in the morning, and most of them stayed till the end despite the rain. This distillery day is a full-fledged music festival with plenty of food and drinks to go around. Employees were also offering free tours on the hour. 

Caol Ila Distillery 

Caol Ila Day in 2022 took place in a city square because they were still working on finishing up the new property. If you visit this year you are certainly in for a special treat because this will be their first ever Fèis Ìle in the new space. Personally, I am quite curious about all the events that will unfold at Caol Ila this time around. 

The event itself is another fun occurrence. There were multiple food vendors, a craft market, a Caol Ila cocktail bar, and a few special event spaces. My favourite event on this day was hosted by the same dynamic duo as the Lagavulin walk. Ervin and Ewan hosted us for a relaxing tasting titled “Scotch and Vinyl” during which a small group of people nestled in beanbag chairs and chilled out to classic records matched to classic releases. 

Where to eat

There are a few restaurants, pubs, and cafes. Some of them require reservations, and you guessed it — they also book up fast. Many of them don’t rely on the internet, so you will need to call to see if and when they might have an opening. Plan ahead if you like variety. Naturally, each distillery day will have plenty of food vendors, and nearly every one of them will have fresh oysters – must try!

In Bowmore, you can eat at the Bowmore Hotel Restaurant. The food is traditional pub snacks and local fresh seafood. On night one, I tried the scallops, which here on Islay always come with the roe (orange tail), which was a bit odd (new) at first, but after a few bites, delicious. The Bowmore Hotel pub is also a good spot to try a wide range of rare whiskies. 

Around the corner is a restaurant called Peatzeria, a lovely spot with a heated patio and a view of the sea. Their menu is packed with some baked pizza options, pasta, and a few other plates. On a more upscale end, there is the Lochside Hotel & Restaurant serving up Scottish breakfasts and elevated Islay scallops. And a short drive will take you to a tiny spot called the Munchie Box with sandwiches and fish to go

Kilchoman Distillery Cafe has some hearty soups and tasty sandwiches. Make sure to try the famous Cullen Skink soup (fish). The cafe at Ardbeg, called The Old Kiln, is a fun spot to sit back and enjoy a home-baked pie. You can also hang out in their yard, enjoying snacks from the Ardstream Trailer (which opens in April). 

In Port Ellen, there is  SeaSalt Bistro, known for its fresh seafood. I would recommend trying one of the larger sharing seafood plates, and if you aren’t able to dine in, definitely try the takeaway. No. 1 Charlotte Street B&B nearby has a fun pub. Cosy atmosphere, hearty sandwiches on the menu, and a dartboard at the back – a rather common type of entertainment on Islay. If we stayed in Port Ellen, this would’ve been our local for sure. 

Other notable mentions on my list are Lochindaal Seafood Kitchen, Port Mor Community Cafe, The Ardview Inn, The Islay Whisky Bar in the Ballygrant Inn, and Old Port Bar in the Port Askaig Hotel.

Sightseeing & Exploring 

If you have a car, drive it down every road on the island, especially those that lead to the beach. Honestly, there aren’t that many, and in the course of a week, one way or another, you will see them all. As expected, there are many sheep out and about – they will stare back. And if you are lucky enough, you will also see many coos (Scottish Cows), which I was absolutely obsessed with.

Scenic beaches 

Islay boasts 130 miles of sea coastline, so there are many beaches you can enjoy even in gloomy weather. Machir Bay is a smaller beach on the Western coast of the island and close to Kilchoman; you could easily pop in there before or after your distillery visit. Saligo Bay Beach is all beautiful dunes and dreamy sand with rocky formations arching along the coast. One of the other must-visit locations is Sanaigmore Beach, a hidden beach at Port Ghille Greamhair. See the full list of beaches here on islayinfo.com. 

Note: Only a few beaches are safe for swimming: Laggan Bay, Loch Gruinart, and Loch Indaal.

Historic monuments

There aren’t that many, but those that do exist are worth a visit. The American Monument, for example, is an oval-shaped tower built in the mid-1800s. Better locally known as “The Oa,” the monument is a memorial to all the soldiers who lost their lives in Islay in World War I. Another memorial is the Kilchoman Cross and churchyard of the Old Parish Church, which has been there since the 13th century. And then there is the Carraig Fhada Lighthouse in Kilnaughton Bay. It’s a square-shaped, 2-part lighthouse nestled at the end of a rocky passage. You get a wonderful view of it immediately from the parking lot, but do take the stroll to the front steps. 

Carraig Fhada Lighthouse in the background.

Walks & Hikes

There are many trails, but some locals highly recommend RSPB Loch Gruinart. It is a protected wildlife reserve hosting a lush range of birds, insects, hen harriers, and otters, to name a few. The visitor’s centre does have a map of all the different walks you can take. Some are shaded by trees, others are wide open fields. The greenery and flowers are all absolutely stunning, creating rather magical forest passages in some spots.

 If you are spending time in Bowmore, there is a cute boardwalk near the distillery and a rocky beach. Bring your takeout and some whisky for a picnic; no reservations are needed.

See all possible walking trails on Islay here on Walk Highlands.

Above and below images are from the walk at the RSPB Loch Gruinart.

What to pack & How to dress

Generally speaking, nothing fancy. Bring all your rain and wet-weather essentials – rain boots, raincoats, etc. Many events take place outdoors, so comfortable layers are essential. And so are the comfortable shoes, and I mean really, no place for heels here. The weather is mostly overcast and a little wet, but miracles do happen. Pack an umbrella. You can still be cute, obviously, but warmth and comfort are key. Being whisky-drunk while cold is not a fun vibe. During our visit in 2022, the sun decided to bless Islay, to everyone’s surprise. The first distillery day was so unseasonably sunny that many people got a sunburn, which they had to rock for the rest of the week. Yes, it was funny. Yes, pack a sunblock next to that umbrella.

Herschel classic rain jacket was definitely my most popular piece of clothing this trip.

Getting around Islay

If you have a car, it will be your primary mode of transportation, naturally. Most of the roads are single lanes with specific rules for how to pass other vehicles, using a “passing place”. There is a brochure on the topic at the ferry terminal; make sure to grab it. A common courtesy is to wave at a passing car. Just a simple raise of a palm would suffice. It is rude not to, so wave .

But let’s be honest, we are coming here to drink scotch, so driving might not always be an option. And it is worth mentioning that for the duration of the festival, there are a lot more police on the island, shipped in from across Scotland. So here are some other options:

• Car hire: They’ll drive you around wherever you want to go. There are two companies:  Creswell Cars Ltd and Islay Car Hire 
• Taxi: There are a few, but they are sparse and also need to be booked ahead of time. The list of taxis is at the end of this section.
• Festival shuttle: on occasion, Fèis Ìle does organise shuttle buses from popular locations to special events, but I will be honest, we had a hard time figuring out when and where those are. Some are posted on the website, like the “final flag” bus, but those sell out quickly. 
• Biking: If you are brave and not far from your destination, you can rent a bike from Islay Cycles in Port Ellen or Islay Bike Hire in Bowmore.
• Walking: Can honestly be a good option if you are staying close to the distillery. Port Ellen, for example, is within walking distance of three!
• Transit: There are two bus routes on the island. However, they only operate from 7 AM to 6 PM. See the timetable here.
• Make friends and carpool: Is also an option, after all, you are here for a very social event.

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And that is all, folks. Enjoy your Islay adventures, be safe, and have a great time!

I absolutely loved all the greenery and wildflowers on the island. So peaceful and beautiful.

Carraig Fhada Lighthouse, an aerial view from a low altitude.
The windy and cold temperatures make it hard to operate a drone on the island.

Islay taxi master list

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