Welcome to Scotland: home of single malt whisky, peat, kind, friendly people, and heartwarming food. My partner and I had heard many stories of friends’ adventures at Fèis Ìle, so naturally, it rose to the top of the travel wish list. Many things about visiting Islay and participating in the festival seemed a bit difficult in terms of planning. There was a point when we nearly called it all off, but luckily managed just under a week of adventures on the island. This is our ultimate guide to Fèis Ìle, The Islay Festival of Whisky and Music.
It is also important to point out that you don’t have to be a whisky connoisseur to attend and enjoy these festivities. It is open to everyone, even children. Though at least an interest in whisky is recommended, of course.
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What is Fèis Ìle and where is Islay?
Hosted annually during the last week of May, Fèis Ìle is an island-wide festival celebrating whisky and Islay culture. The festival and the spirit of Islay are much intertwined. The island’s peaty terroir lends itself to unique whiskies, which have been a fixture here since 1779 (Bowmore).
Fèis Ìle has risen to international renown, attracting tourists and whisky lovers from around the globe. The locals often relish in sharing how the island’s population (typically 3,000) can triple during the festival. As an attendee, you are encouraged to explore the island, meet the locals, dance, drink, and be merry.
For the festival’s 10-day span, each distillery takes a turn hosting, usually between 10 AM and 6 PM. Common features include music, local food, and whisky education. Each distillery day is unique, a reflection of its history and the distillery’s character. Lagavulin, with its 200-year-old site and breathtaking views of the Southern Islay shores, hosts walking tours and cellar tastings of venerable whiskies. Bruichladdich, on the other hand, is the day every islander looks forward to most: a giant party with a full-fledged concert, multiple drink tents, and a dozen food vendors, all hosted in the distillery’s massive central courtyard.
Another major Festival draw: the coveted limited edition special releases. Each distillery produces a 3,000-6,000-bottle run for Fèis Ìle that can only be purchased there directly from distilleries and a small number of retailers on Islay. The famed distilleries have lineups that stretch across the street with people ready to purchase these one-of-a-kind liquids. You do get to taste these at the events, so if you find a bottle you are fond of, get two: one to drink, and one to store.
There are a few unspoken rules to participation in Fèis Ìle, but they are easy to follow:
- Be nice: meet locals, meet visitors, get to know people, and make friends. The people make the festival.
- Don’t just focus on the whisky: while it is commonly referred to as the world’s biggest whisky festival Fèis Ìle is much more than that. It is a celebration of Islay and an equally big event for the locals. So eat the food, dance to the music, and see the island.
- Have a great time. That’s all.
All kinds of booking notes
Planning for Fèis Ìle is a dance of research and anticipation. You must match your desired days to available accommodation stays. But that’s not all, you must also match those with the ferry schedule. I understand it might be overwhelming, but don’t forget – you are travelling to rural Scotland! Also, it will all be worth it.
1. Booking accommodations
These get reserved well ahead of time, often years in advance – yes Fèis Ìle is a big deal. It is also a small island, and the number of people here during the festival week could triple, so you see the dilemma. When we travelled, we booked very late and, quite frankly, got lucky. Not all 9 days might be available in the same spot. And to be honest, you might not want to stay for all 9 days, that’s just mental. The program doesn’t get released until much closer to the festival week, so your trip duration and dates will, more than likely, be based on the accommodations available
You must stay on Islay, so pay attention to where the location of the hotel is if you are using a booking site (ie, Expedia, TripAdvisor, Booking). There is also a high chance you might see nothing available on these websites, but don’t panic. A nearly full list of island accommodations can be found on islayinfo.com. Few listings will have an online calendar, and more likely, you will need to email a handful of places to see if they still have open dates.
Accomodations include a few hotels, a few Inns and B&Bs, and a selection of self-catering (vacation) rentals. Among high-end hotels are the recently opened Ardbeg House (luxury), Another Place, The Machrie (Expedia) and Islay House (TripAdvisor), both of which have a golf course, as well as The Bidgend Hotel. Bowmore Hotel is a staple because of the pub where locals gather nightly, the rooms are maximised for sleeping space with bunk beds. The Lochside Hotel (Bowmore) also has an on-site restaurant and a more classic room layout (TripAdvisor).
If all fails, there is camping. People camp for the full duration of the festival and often move their tents along with the daily programming. Too far to hike to Lagavulin? No bother, camp outside of the distillery. More info on camping can be found here.
2. Booking travel
Flight + Car
There is an airport on Islay that you can fly to from Glasgow (Loganair), but it is a rather infrequent weekly flight and a fairly small plane. There are also neighbouring airports in Colonsay and Oban (Hebridean Air Services), with similar limitations. The easiest option is to fly or take a train to a larger city (Glasgow, Edinburgh) and rent a car from there. We landed in London, took the train to Glasgow, and drove from there. You can even rent a car and leave it in another city to mix up your trip.
Tip: Get a local SIM card at the airport on arrival to the UK or purchase an eSIM plan ahead of time (learn about eSIMs).
Ferry to Islay
Islay is an island, and the only way (other than the tiny plane, of course) to get there is by sea. The ferry is operated by Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac), and they share the summer schedule in advance, so you can book it well ahead of time as well. CalMac also recommends you pay attention to the status updates, which you can sign up for by text or see in the CalMac app. The most popular departure point from the mainland is Kennacraig on West Loch Tarbert, which lands at Port Ellen or Port Askaig. If you rent a car, it goes on the ferry, of course.
Quick tip: You will not have access to the car for the duration of the ferry journey, so take all you need with you right away.
The ferry journey is about 2 hours. The boat is quite impressive. Upon entry, you will see a large chandelier and a mini-casino – yeah, I know! On the lower level is also a shop and a few booths to relax in. A grand staircase will take you to the main deck. Up there are a lot of sitting areas and a cafe with pretty good food, I must admit. But you know, bring your snacks if you can, and a game or a book to kill time with. The ferry has an outdoor deck (two levels), and it does get quite windy up there. Keep an eye out for the water because you might spot some whales. See pricing here.
Important notes:
- Check-in is 30 minutes prior to departure for vehicles and 10 minutes for foot passengers
- Make a reservation ahead of time, they do sell out
- If anything happens, call them: 0800 066 5000 (we had to)
3. Booking events
You do not need tickets to attend Fèis Ìle, most distillery days are open. But you do need tickets for special events. Throughout the week, there are many events, some run by distilleries and Fèis Ìle officials. Distillery events will be released directly by them, so follow them for updates. Official festival event tickets are released at the beginning of January/February (could be later) and dropped on various dates over the next couple of months. I strongly recommend you sign up for the festival newsletter and follow them on social media so you don’t miss any notifications.
Things to keep in mind:
- Their website is not super mobile-friendly, you might have issues with your credit card type or browser. So if any issues occur, try a different browser, try a different card, try a different device, need be, try someone else’s phone. We had to do all of the above.
More on the Fèis Ìle events
Each day is dedicated to a single distillery that will host the celebrations in the manner they choose. The festival releases the program on the website, and some events might be added quite late in the season. There is always a public opening event with performances from local dance troupes, bands, and pied pipers. The pied pipers appear around villages throughout the week, unannounced as well, which I loved. Do visit the website frequently as more details are added often, and it might include those rather important shuttle and ticket notes.
Other distilleries are open during the week, too, so it can be a good opportunity to pop in somewhere you might not get a chance to visit another day. Additionally, some years there are off-distillery events celebrating Islay life and ingenuity in other ways. Lagavulin always hosts on day two (opening the event) while Ardbeg tends to close.
There are nine active distilleries on Islay and a number of “lost” distilleries, no longer active, but remnants of them are still present and historically significant. The distilleries are spread across the island, but three of them are located nearly side by side: Ardbeg, Lagavulin, and Laphroaig are all within walking distance from Port Ellen.
Lagavulin Distillery
Lagavulin always opens the festival, and this was hands down our favourite event. In addition to the public open house, they host a wide array of special activities. Last year, for example, our morning started with a rather special cellar tasting led by Ian McArthur.
McArthur retired a few years ago but had worked at the distillery warehouse for nearly 50 years prior to his departure. A group of us gathered in a cellar around five barrels, which we got to taste over friendly banter. This being my first time on Islay intrigued Ian, so he invited me up to pipe out a 17-year-old sherry cask straight from the barrel. The entire video is here if you want to see me struggle.
One of the other tours we did at ‘Laga’ involved a little stroll around the property to a fantastic view of the distillery in its full glory. Our guides, Ervin Trykowski (Global Single Malt Whisky Ambassador, Diageo) and Ewan Gunn (Senior Global Brand Ambassador, Diageo), shared stories about the village and whisky while offering scenic samples on the go.
Bruichladdich Distillery
From the day we descended on Islay, nearly everyone brought up the Bruichladdich day. This re-imagined Victorian distillery produces wonderful classic whisky packaged in turquoise bottles with heavy modern lettering – a departure from tradition.
For their distillery day, Bruichladdich hosts a festival called Rock’Ndall. People lined up on a hill early in the morning, and most of them stayed till the end despite the rain. This distillery day is a full-fledged music festival with plenty of food and drinks to go around. Employees were also offering free tours on the hour.
Caol Ila Distillery
Caol Ila Day in 2022 took place in a city square because they were still working on finishing up the new property. If you visit this year you are certainly in for a special treat because this will be their first ever Fèis Ìle in the new space. Personally, I am quite curious about all the events that will unfold at Caol Ila this time around.
The event itself is another fun occurrence. There were multiple food vendors, a craft market, a Caol Ila cocktail bar, and a few special event spaces. My favourite event on this day was hosted by the same dynamic duo as the Lagavulin walk. Ervin and Ewan hosted us for a relaxing tasting titled “Scotch and Vinyl” during which a small group of people nestled in beanbag chairs and chilled out to classic records matched to classic releases.
Where to eat
There are a few restaurants, pubs, and cafes. Some of them require reservations, and you guessed it — they also book up fast. Many of them don’t rely on the internet, so you will need to call to see if and when they might have an opening. Plan ahead if you like variety. Naturally, each distillery day will have plenty of food vendors, and nearly every one of them will have fresh oysters – must try!
In Bowmore, you can eat at the Bowmore Hotel Restaurant. The food is traditional pub snacks and local fresh seafood. On night one, I tried the scallops, which here on Islay always come with the roe (orange tail), which was a bit odd (new) at first, but after a few bites, delicious. The Bowmore Hotel pub is also a good spot to try a wide range of rare whiskies.
Around the corner is a restaurant called Peatzeria, a lovely spot with a heated patio and a view of the sea. Their menu is packed with some baked pizza options, pasta, and a few other plates. On a more upscale end, there is the Lochside Hotel & Restaurant serving up Scottish breakfasts and elevated Islay scallops. And a short drive will take you to a tiny spot called the Munchie Box with sandwiches and fish to go
Kilchoman Distillery Cafe has some hearty soups and tasty sandwiches. Make sure to try the famous Cullen Skink soup (fish). The cafe at Ardbeg, called The Old Kiln, is a fun spot to sit back and enjoy a home-baked pie. You can also hang out in their yard, enjoying snacks from the Ardstream Trailer (which opens in April).
In Port Ellen, there is SeaSalt Bistro, known for its fresh seafood. I would recommend trying one of the larger sharing seafood plates, and if you aren’t able to dine in, definitely try the takeaway. No. 1 Charlotte Street B&B nearby has a fun pub. Cosy atmosphere, hearty sandwiches on the menu, and a dartboard at the back – a rather common type of entertainment on Islay. If we stayed in Port Ellen, this would’ve been our local for sure.
Other notable mentions on my list are Lochindaal Seafood Kitchen, Port Mor Community Cafe, The Ardview Inn, The Islay Whisky Bar in the Ballygrant Inn, and Old Port Bar in the Port Askaig Hotel.
Sightseeing & Exploring
If you have a car, drive it down every road on the island, especially those that lead to the beach. Honestly, there aren’t that many, and in the course of a week, one way or another, you will see them all. As expected, there are many sheep out and about – they will stare back. And if you are lucky enough, you will also see many coos (Scottish Cows), which I was absolutely obsessed with.
Scenic beaches
Islay boasts 130 miles of sea coastline, so there are many beaches you can enjoy even in gloomy weather. Machir Bay is a smaller beach on the Western coast of the island and close to Kilchoman; you could easily pop in there before or after your distillery visit. Saligo Bay Beach is all beautiful dunes and dreamy sand with rocky formations arching along the coast. One of the other must-visit locations is Sanaigmore Beach, a hidden beach at Port Ghille Greamhair. See the full list of beaches here on islayinfo.com.
Note: Only a few beaches are safe for swimming: Laggan Bay, Loch Gruinart, and Loch Indaal.
Historic monuments
There aren’t that many, but those that do exist are worth a visit. The American Monument, for example, is an oval-shaped tower built in the mid-1800s. Better locally known as “The Oa,” the monument is a memorial to all the soldiers who lost their lives in Islay in World War I. Another memorial is the Kilchoman Cross and churchyard of the Old Parish Church, which has been there since the 13th century. And then there is the Carraig Fhada Lighthouse in Kilnaughton Bay. It’s a square-shaped, 2-part lighthouse nestled at the end of a rocky passage. You get a wonderful view of it immediately from the parking lot, but do take the stroll to the front steps.
Carraig Fhada Lighthouse in the background.
Walks & Hikes
There are many trails, but some locals highly recommend RSPB Loch Gruinart. It is a protected wildlife reserve hosting a lush range of birds, insects, hen harriers, and otters, to name a few. The visitor’s centre does have a map of all the different walks you can take. Some are shaded by trees, others are wide open fields. The greenery and flowers are all absolutely stunning, creating rather magical forest passages in some spots.
If you are spending time in Bowmore, there is a cute boardwalk near the distillery and a rocky beach. Bring your takeout and some whisky for a picnic; no reservations are needed.
See all possible walking trails on Islay here on Walk Highlands.
Above and below images are from the walk at the RSPB Loch Gruinart.
What to pack & How to dress
Generally speaking, nothing fancy. Bring all your rain and wet-weather essentials – rain boots, raincoats, etc. Many events take place outdoors, so comfortable layers are essential. And so are the comfortable shoes, and I mean really, no place for heels here. The weather is mostly overcast and a little wet, but miracles do happen. Pack an umbrella. You can still be cute, obviously, but warmth and comfort are key. Being whisky-drunk while cold is not a fun vibe. During our visit in 2022, the sun decided to bless Islay, to everyone’s surprise. The first distillery day was so unseasonably sunny that many people got a sunburn, which they had to rock for the rest of the week. Yes, it was funny. Yes, pack a sunblock next to that umbrella.
Herschel classic rain jacket was definitely my most popular piece of clothing this trip.
Getting around Islay
If you have a car, it will be your primary mode of transportation, naturally. Most of the roads are single lanes with specific rules for how to pass other vehicles, using a “passing place”. There is a brochure on the topic at the ferry terminal; make sure to grab it. A common courtesy is to wave at a passing car. Just a simple raise of a palm would suffice. It is rude not to, so wave 👋🏻.
But let’s be honest, we are coming here to drink scotch, so driving might not always be an option. And it is worth mentioning that for the duration of the festival, there are a lot more police on the island, shipped in from across Scotland. So here are some other options:
- Car hire: They’ll drive you around wherever you want to go. There are two companies: Creswell Cars Ltd and Islay Car Hire
- Taxi: There are a few, but they are sparse and also need to be booked ahead of time. The list of taxis is at the end of this section.
- Festival shuttle: on occasion, Fèis Ìle does organise shuttle buses from popular locations to special events, but I will be honest, we had a hard time figuring out when and where those are. Some are posted on the website, like the “final flag” bus, but those sell out quickly.
- Biking: If you are brave and not far from your destination, you can rent a bike from Islay Cycles in Port Ellen or Islay Bike Hire in Bowmore.
- Walking: Can honestly be a good option if you are staying close to the distillery. Port Ellen, for example, is within walking distance of three!
- Transit: There are two bus routes on the island. However, they only operate from 7 AM to 6 PM. See the timetable here.
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And that is all, folks. Enjoy your Islay adventures, be safe, and have a great time!
I absolutely loved all the greenery and wildflowers on the island. So peaceful and beautiful.
Carraig Fhada Lighthouse, an aerial view from a low altitude.
The windy and cold temperatures make it hard to operate a drone on the island.
Islay taxi master list
| Carol’s Cabs, (Carol MacDonald), Port Ellen | +44 (0)7887 783 869 | – |
| Bodachs Islay Taxis, (Arthur Holyoake) | +44 (0)7513 066 029 | bodachtaxis.com |
| Hughie Currie | +44 (0)7737 491 429 | – |
| Dougie, (Islay Tours / Private Hires) | +44 (0)7474 686 367 | https://islaytours.wixsite.com/website |
| Jim’s Taxis & Whisky Tours, Bowmore | +44 (0)7967 505 991 | https://www.jims-islay-taxi.co.uk/ |
| Lamb Taxis, Bowmore | +44 (0)7846 055 399 | Welcome to Islay Taxi by Lambhttps://www.lambtaxi-islay.co.uk/embed/#?secret=8jDHJdtX4y#?secret=IkeTq7Op1v |
| Bruichladdich Taxis, (Andrew McEachern) | +44 (0)7899 942 673 | https://bruichladdichtaxis.weebly.com/ |
| Islay Taxis, (Stuart Doyle), Port Charlotte | +44 (0)7771 921 157 | Welcome to Islay Taxishttps://www.islaytaxis.com/embed/#?secret=T9g5qy9B8W#?secret=hQ26BHLHeF |
| Attic Cabs, (Colin Stroud), Ballygrant | +44 (0)7944 873 323 | http://www.attic-cabs-islay.co.uk/ |
So true about the accommodations, i went a few years back and we had a hard time finding a place to stay as well. From now on booking in advance!
This looks like such an incredible experience, and so much great information to make the most of it. I was drooling over all the delicious foods but I have to say – you could feed me just about anything on that heated patio with a view of the sea that you described!
What a dream place to visit in Scotland. Everything is so green. A lovely post!
Definitely a whisky-lovers dream! 🥃
I’ve actually never heard of this destination but it seems rather lovely! Will definitely keep this on my radar for when I visit Scotland 🙂
What a great experience! Scotland is definitely on my list–you’re pictures are great!