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All images by Kateryna Topol.

Getting around

If you have a designated driver, renting a car would allow you to see more of the region and make casual scenic stops. If, however, you intend to enjoy all the samples and beyond or simply just don’t want to drive, there are many options for chauffeured transport. You can hire a car with a guide, with an English-speaking driver, or simply someone to just chauffeur you around with minimal expectations. 

A quick search will pull up plenty of options. Mydriverinparis.com seems to have good options, and you can send them a WhatsApp message for an instant reply. This is a popular region so booking well in advance is strongly recommended. You will also see options to hire cars with Viator or Get Your Guide, which can be better deals, but make sure to do a search for the exact company. 

Day One: A laid-back arrival

There is a direct train from Paris to Gare de Champagne Ardenne station and it takes under an hour ($58+ CA per person). For day one, we recommend starting slow at a scenic wine country hotel, Château de Sacy. The hotel is located in the heart of the Sacy commune, surrounded by vineyards on all sides. You can go for a walk through the greenery, explore the small town centre, and then take full advantage of the hotel spa. Your stay includes access to the outdoor loungers and barrel tubs with a phenomenal sunset view. A glass of champagne is optional but highly recommended. 

The restaurant at Château de Sacy is a local favourite. The terrace looks over the vineyards while the interior creates an atmosphere of royal luxury. The menu features a selection of classic French dishes, a range of proteins, and shareable mains [make reservations]. In the morning, guests are invited to enjoy a buffet-style breakfast. Your options include an impressive selection of fresh cheeses, baked goods, small savoury snacks, and much more.

An even more luxurious scenic alternative is the Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa. Set between Reims and Épernay the hotel is surrounded by stunning views. This is a fairly large property with a Spa and Wellness centre which includes an outdoor pool. Dining options include The Bellevue Restaurant & Terrace with a 180-degree panoramic view, The Royal restaurant (1 star in the 2025 Michelin guide), and Abyss, Bar & Terrace. The hotel team can help you plan and organise your excursions, champagne or otherwise.

Day Two: Let there be bubbly!

Make sure to check the tour schedules for all Champagne houses beforehand and book in advance. They might sell out, some champagne houses are closed on odd days, some have off hours, and English tours can book up pretty quickly. Having made all the reservations in advance, we begin our Champagne tour. 

Champagne Veuve Clicquot

Veuve Clicquot offers a few tours from one to four hours in duration. Each tour includes a cellar visit and tasting; you choose which wines. The cellars are impressive and the story of Maison Veuve Clicquot is certainly one worth knowing. This woman was a pioneer in winemaking at a time when women were not even allowed to have bank accounts. The tour can be made private at an additional cost. 

Reservations: veuveclicquot.com

Champagne Taittinger

Taittinger is one of the largest and most respectable champagne producers in the world. You might recognise their silver box packaging with red bubbles on the box. This visit will also include a cellar tour, but the cellars are a bit different from those you saw at Veuve. The tour will conclude in the tasting room where you can explore their champagne lineup at your own pace. 

Reservations: taittinger.com

Images above and below of Lunch at Le Jardin at the Château Les Crayères, Reims.

Lunch at Château Les Crayères, Reims

Another stunning hotel with an exceptional culinary team. There are two restaurants and one bar, we opted for a three-course lunch at Le Jardin. Nestled at the back of the hotel grounds, the restaurant is shaded by greenery and nature. Guests can make an a la carte selection or opt for a coursed lunch. 

Reservations: lescrayeres.com

Alternatively, have a look at lunch options at Couvert de Vignes or one of the award-winning restaurants at the Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa.

Champagne Ruinart

This visit is unique in more ways than one. The property itself feels like an armoury, once you are past the gates, you are greeted by a mansion that houses not just wine but an impressive art collection (Ruin-art). These small group tours are informative and entertaining (at least our guide was). As you navigate through these oddly shaped cellars, you will continually cross various unique, often custom-made pieces of art. The tour ends back in the tasting room with a guided tasting.

Reservations: ruinart.com

Domaine Vranken-Pommery

If time permits, spend a few hours at Vranken-Pommery. Another female-led classic champagne house with a wealth of history. From first glance, Domaine Vranken-Pommery looks different, almost like an amusement park destination. Colourful architecture is paired with interactive installations and various art corners throughout the property. The guided tour skips through quite a few of them, a self-guided tour might be a better option if to like to stop and take pictures or explore the art.

Reservations: vrankenpommery.com

Day Three: With a casual strolling pace

A short scenic drive will take us to Avenue de Champagne in Epernay. The street is just about a kilometre long so you can walk it at all with a leisurely stroll, which makes it perfect for an overnight stay. But first, champagne! Some of the houses can only be visited with a tour, some you will notice have open terraces that welcome walk-ins. 

Check in at Épernay or on Avenue de Champagne

The idea is to stay directly on Avenue de Champagne so we can have dinner and a nightcap without having to call a car. 

Unpack at La Villa Eugene, a 19th-century Mercer family hotel. There are only 15 rooms, a lovely pool, and a classy little bar. Le 25bis by Leclerc Briant is a boutique hotel option with classic decor and clawfoot tubs. The BB Suites, Champagne Besserat de Bellefon might have the most spacious suites in the area if space and luxury is what you are looking for. And then, of course, there is Hotel Jean Moët, located at the top of the avenue with a short walk to Épernay centre.

Champagne Moët & Chandon

Moët & Chandon is a champagne powerhouse and needs no introduction. The shape of the cellars varies based on location, and the ones that run under Avenue de Champagne are quite different. The tours are 1.5 hours, and there is an option for a small group 2-hour Tasting Workshop or a 2-hour Grand Vintage Collection tasting. Moët & Chandon also have an interior restaurant and a garden terrace with a great menu so you can visit it without a tour [reservations strongly recommended].

Reservations: moet.com

Champagne Mercier

A champagne house founded by a twenty-year-old Eugène Mercier, who was on a mission to make champagne available to the casual folk. The tour takes you through 18km of cellars on a driverless train and includes a stop at the working production site. The range of tours includes one, two, or three glasses of wine. The caves tour is done on an open train car, which curves through the cellars while a guide talks you through the house’s story. Some of the tours also include a vineyard visit before the tasting.

Reserations: champagnemercier.com

Atelier 1834, Champagne Boizel

Another historic mansion and home to a long generation of winemakers, founded by a young couple in 1834. There are three different tours available, all of which include a journey through the Boizel House from the cellars to the stainless-steel vats. The difference, of course, is in the champagnes you taste. Boizel also has a courtyard terrace open to walk-ins if you are opting out of the tour.

Reservations: boizel.com

Sips between the tours

Perrier Jouët Champagne House has a spectacular garden terrace with a lovely menu. They do not offer tasting flights, but you can taste their collection one glass at a time. Nearby is Champagne de Vignerons, a syndicate of smaller regional champagne makers producing interesting and often sustainable wines. The shop has a selection of 100 wines for purchase and those interested in sitting down for a tasting can choose 3 of 6 wines of the day to try.

Épernay dining options

There are quite a lot, and your eye might be drawn to specific places based on your personal interest. A common practice in the region is set 3+ course meals with some predetermined options. La Table Kobus, La Grillade Gourmande, and La Cave à Champagne are all good options in Épernay. Moët & Chandon Bar and Maison de Champagne Perrier-Jouët are great options on Champagne Avenue [reservations recommended].

There are also a few farmers’ market options and various bakeries and charcuterie shops. Halle Saint Thibault is open on Wednesday and Saturday mornings. Here you will find local fruits, vegetables, and fully cooked meals to pack a picnic basket with.

Above: Lunch at La Table Kobus, Épernay. Below: Musée du vin de Champagne et d’Archéologie régionale.

Would rather go on a planned tour? Here are some options

Find a place to stay in Champagne

The post Three day self-guided Champagne itinerary appeared first on Paths to Travel.

This Italy travel itinerary took us about two weeks, you can do it a bit faster (though not recommended), or stretch it out with more day trips and relaxing days at the beach.  Alternatively, if you are only visiting one of these destinations (Tuscany, Puglia, Naples, Amalfi), skip ahead to that guide using the table of contents.

This article might contain affiliate links. Read the disclaimer about affiliate links & PR gifting here. 

Stop One: Tuscany

Florence is the closest international airport for Tuscany. Here you can pick up the car and begin your journey to the Italian wine country. The drive from the airport to our chosen hotel is about an hour. Alternatively you can lend in Pisa which will make this drive about two hours. In this case, if you start to feel peckish, Restorante Il Convio in San Miniato is a good stop (Google, Instagram). Have your first spritz, order a coccoli starter (bite-sized fried dough balls with accoutrements), and one of their signature house-made pastas to enjoy in a serine garden environment. 

Tuscany will be the only stop where we rent a car or fly. Once we leave Tuscany we will move across the country by trains and ferries.

Simple planning tip: Add places you’d like to visit on the map and break up the days based on the regional clusters created on that map. For example, a few of the wineries on this list are near Siena so the day would be Siena plus those wineries.

Above: Restorante Il Convio in San Miniato

Where to stay in Tuscany

We had a vision of a remote historic stay which led us to Relais La Costa. This is a small boutique hotel recently renovated to preserve all of its historic elements. The rooms are spread out across multiple floors each with their own door and access to a shared or private terrace. We had a slow daily breakfast in the garden (included) while planning the day ahead. The hotel offers dinner service as well which you need to prebook because each meal is quite unique. It is worth noting that a few of the ingredients are grown here on the property. There is also a rooftop-style pool and a spa where guests can get a mix of services including manicures and pedicures. 

The location of this stay was very strategic: to be close to other towns without having to drive for over an hour in each direction. 

Book directly on relaislacosta.it or your favourite booking site: booking.com | Expedia | TripAdvisor | Hotels

Quick Tip: Stay connected with an eSIM like AirAlo: $24 USD for 10GB, 30 days (more on that here).

Below: Relais La Costa Hotel building, chef’s garden, and inclusive breakfast.

Above and below: San Giorgio a Lapi winery, Siena, Italy.

Wineries to visit in Tuscany

San Giorgio a Lapi was perhaps my favourite stop in this region (Website, Google, Instagram). This family-owned production is known for its wonderful wines and olive oil, all of which are grown around the tasting room. The wine flight comes with a small snack, a delicious baguette bite with olive oil. Their pink Sangiovese is a chef’s kiss. Next is Loacker Wines, which has a breathtaking Corte Pavone Winery estate elevated above the region offering a wonderful view of Tuscany (Website, Google, Instagram). 

Arrigoni Pietraserena winery has a scenic terrace and does frequent tours which you might even be able to book the same day (Website, Google, Instagram). The tour includes a walk through the winemaking facilities, the vineyard, and a guided tasting. In your free time, you can walk around the property where horses and a lama live. Cantinale’s Castello di Monteriggioni Farm Restaurant is located in Monteriggioni fairly close to the hotel so that stop can be made at any time (Website, Google, Instagram). 

Above and below: Corte Pavone Winery estate. The standard tasting doesn’t come with snacks but the wines by the glass does.

Above and below: Arrigoni Pietraserena winery.

Below: Cantinale’s Castello di Monteriggioni Farm Restaurant.

If time permits before your departure flight visit the Ruffino 1877 Estate just outside of Florence (Website, Google, Instagram). This property is immense: there are two restaurants, a garden terrace (where the tastings take place), on-site lodging, and even a garden maze. If you choose to stay in Casa Ruffino the daily journey into the wine country will be longer. 

Wine tastings in the region start at €30+ or €5 by the glass; tour and tasting €40+ and from there you can elevate these experiences with meals, picnics, and rare wines.

Ruffino 1877 Estate, Florence, below is the garden terrace where the tastings take place in the summer.

Towns to visit in Tuscany

San Gimignano: A gorgeous Italian hill town with many shops, historic monuments, and medieval architecture. In the heart of it is a square plaza, Piazza della Cisterna, where everyone gathers and enjoys their ice cream. Go on a little walking tour, pop into a few shops, and enjoy the elevated views. The historic center of San Gimignano is a recognized UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Below: Siena at night, we got there fairly late and I took very few photos.

Siena: One of the largest cities in Italy and the heart of Tuscany this town is a popular stop and for many reasons. Siena also has a UNESCO-listed historic center, Piazza del Campo. Il Campo is a one-of-a-kind structure angled towards the center facilitating great views for all in attendance for various public performances. Even today all public and civic holidays are celebrated in the piazza. 

Quick note: The parking in Siena can be tricky and is illegal in most places unless you are a local. Find more about parking in Siena on discovertuscany.com.

Montalcino: another hilltop medieval town, some would say a village, with a vibrant community spread across its many restaurants and patios. Montalcino region is well known for its production of Brunello so you will see plenty of wine shops and tasting rooms. Architecturally speaking this town is perhaps best known for its clock tower at the top of Palazzo dei Priori. A must-stop in Montalcino is Il Gallo Stuzzicheria for its warm toast sandwiches and local wine (Google Map, TripAdvsior)

Don’t feel like driving? Here are a few tour options

• Book a private wine tour from wherever you are staying through local guides: tuscanwinetastingtours.com, scenicwinetoursintuscany.com, or tuscandrivers.com/wine-tours. There are others as well but these promise private custom itineraries. 
• From Siena: Chianti and Castles Tour with Wine Tastings 
• From Siena: Brunello di Montalcino Guided Wine Tour w/ Lunch 
• Siena: Tuk Tuk Tour with Wine Tasting 

Above: Il Gallo Stuzzicheria cafe and one of their warm sandwiches.
Below: Some views of Montalcino and the infamous tower clock.

Transit day: Tuscany to Puglia

Our next stop is Puglia and while there are trains that go there they take 8+ hours, at least one change, and can involve a bus. So to save time we opt for a short flight. Florence to Bari journey by air takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes non-stop with Ryanair.

From Bari to Monopoli there are a few travel options. There is a +/- 30-minute train however, you will need to travel to that train from the airport by bus which will increase the time to over an hour and a half. It’s also worth mentioning that this specific train line does not go all night so depending on when your flight lands you might miss the last train. This was the case for us so we pre-booked a transfer securely on the airport’s website (~€128 for 2 passages and 2 bags). Monopoli Historic Center is car-free so you will be dropped off at the border and will need to travel on foot. The town is quite small though, so don’t panic

Stop Two: Monopoli

Welcome to Monopoli, Metropolitan City of Bari located on the Adriatic Sea. This charming white town has a vibrant culture, beautiful architecture, a great culinary scene, and a generally relaxed atmosphere. Monopoly, Italy, is absolutely worth visiting and if you are anything like me you just might fall a little bit in love with it. Puglia itself is quite large but Monopoli is a good base for Puglia, especially if you are planning to visit Alberobello, The Home Of Trulli.

Where to stay in Monopoli, Italy

The town is small and there aren’t many hotels but there are a few nice AirBNBs and we chose Pusa Mare Suite. This rental is located on the second floor (no lift) and has a unique one-bedroom design. There is also a fully private terrace one floor up with two sunbeds, a dining table, and a jacuzzi. We absolutely loved having slow mornings and aperitivo hour on this roof. 

Alternatively here are a few hotels and suites:

• Palazzo Indelli hotel in the city center, breakfast included 
• Suite1212 Pirrelli townhouse rental in the city center, with a rooftop terrace 
• Al Console Luxury Suite in the city center, with a pool, hot tub, and included breakfast

What to do in Monopoli

Slowly stroll the city streets bopping into its many shops and historic buildings. Take a walk along the town walls where the rugged sea waves occasionally splash over leaving behind speckles of white sand. Sit back and enjoy the early morning fisherman activities or take a walk down to the rocky beach and join the locals in the sun. 

There are quite a few festivals in Monopoli one of which is PhEST, a major art and photography festival that takes over the city at the end of August. In June the city hosts a literature festival called Prospero Fest and Ritratti music festival is on from mid-July to early August. See the complete events list on monopolitourism.com. 

A few organized tours and excursions:

• 2.5-hour Guided Boat Tour to Polignano a Mare Caves
• Walking Street Food Tour
• Snorkeling Tour in Cala Incina or Porto Alga
• Tour of the beaches of Monopoli and Polignano a Mare 
• Discover Scuba Diving in the Apulian Riviera

Palazzo Indelli hotel is seen in the background in the image on the right.

Where to eat in Monopoli

Monopoli is where you come for the wine and the seafood. Baldovino Wine Bar seems to be a local favourite (Google, Instagram). Here in a casual atmosphere, you will enjoy fresh, uniquely prepared local dishes paired with delicious natural wines. There are very few tables but the sitting area, in true European nature, is extended to the nearby building steps. For the sea view head to Portavecchia Terrazza  (Google, Instagram) while a more mixology-forward menu can be found at Alchemy Bar and Things (Google, Instagram). For an elevated dinner, there is Condominio 60 (Website, Google, Instagram) and Room 21 (Website, Google, Instagram).

Generally speaking, you will see menu fun terraces, appetizing menus, and casual bodegas with tables out front. Most of these vendors will at minimum offer you a good glass of wine and a cold beer. So take a seat and enjoy the people-watching, there is always music to make the experience more fun.

Above: Portavecchia Terrazza, Monopoli

Day trip to Alberobello, The Home Of Trulli

Puglia is known for its cheese but over the last few years, its most popular images are from Alberobello, The Home Of Trulli.

How to get to Alberobello from Monopoli:

There is a bus that goes from Monopoli to Alberobello, the stop is called Monopoli Station and is located on the outskirts of the city (walkable). This journey will take about an hour and cost ~€2/person each way. The bus tickets must be purchased ahead of time for a specific time (at least 5min before departure). To purchase the tickets, head to trenitalia.com and choose “regional” from the dropdown menu. The bus stop is a short walk from the center and isn’t actually a station but just a street stop, unless it moved, which is entirely possible. According to the TrenItalia website, it is also possible to purchase a ticket using the “Trenitalia app, by contacting the call centre: +39.06.5210550 (premium-rate number), at the ticket offices in the station, from the Self-service machines and affiliated travel agencies”. You can also take a taxi (hard to find, $$) or book a transfer vehicle ($$-$$$ in season), there is an updated list of both on TripAdvisor here.

When in Alberobello…

Once in town, take slow, leisurely strolls up and down the city streets, visit the small vendor shops, and get the ultimate panoramic view from the elevated balcony up a few steps from the main street. If you are looking for a more informative experience, join the Alberobello: 2-Hour Guided Trulli Tour, this tour is approved by the local tourism board.

There are naturally quite a few restaurants and bars in the village but I was looking for a wine bar with a local cheese selection. The two best spots to satisfy that craving are Trulli e Puglia Wine Bar and Vino & Amore which is where we had lunch. Vino & Amore (Instagram) is a lovely family-run lunch spot with an impressive selection of local wines and all kinds of homemade deliciousness (they don’t do takeout). What was meant to be a quick pit stop turned into a fun lunch and a hang-out with the kind people who work there.

Above: A few photos from Alberobello, The Home of the Trulli, Puglia
Below: Images from Vino & Amore, Alberobello, Puglia

Given the distance from Monopoli, we combined this journey with a wine-tasting experience below. There was no bus available to get to the winery so the folks at Vino & Amore recommended a driver who then ended up taking us back to Monopoli after.

Alberobello transfers: togotopuglia.it, you can call or use WhatsApp to schedule as well: 377-341-6385

Sunset wine-tasting experience trip

The vision was rural Puglia, a harvest table, and endless rows of vines. This vision came to fruition with Puglia del Trulli, a small family owner winery that up until this current generation of children (2 sons) only produced wine and olive oil for themselves (Website, Instagram). The family offers a few different experiences from cooking lessons to dinners and tastings in the vineyard. You can also stay here in a Trulli overnight, there are three available for flexible booking.

At the wine tasting, a small group of us strolled the vineyard, tasted the grapes, and learned about regional varietals before sitting down for a communal tasting with snack pairings. Book directly on pugliadeitrulli.com/en/experiences, transfer can be arranged with them if desired. 

*** Find a set of postcards from Italy, Amalfi Beach, and Atrani Artchitecture prints in my Gift Shop.

Transit day: Monopoli to Naples

This journey is about 5 hours and will have up to two transfers: Bari Central (regional) and then likely Caserta, though there are other routes this one is the fastest option to Naples Centrale. The longer trains include snack boxes with water and most changes were on the same platform but do pay attention.  Book with RailErope or trenitalia.com which, in full transparency, I found extremely frustrating to use. 

The safest transfer option from the train station to the hotel is one booked with the hotel. The hotel will make sure the rate is fair and the driver won’t take you on a ride around town.

Stop Three: Naples

Naples is the third largest city in Italy. It is a large urban center with a unique culture, architecture, and history. The city is a bit messy, raw in its appearance but vibrant, exciting, and beautiful at the same time. It is a safe city to travel to but you should pay attention to your surroundings and belonging here just as much as anywhere else. Napoli, as the locals call it, will take you on adventures, feed you great food, and show you art and literature beyond what you could’ve imagined.

Where to stay in Naples, Italy

Stay in the historic heart of Naples at the Rinuccini Relais Hotel, I wrote a separate piece on that, please see that article here. This property is directly in the center with spectacular views and multiple added safety measures for that piece of mind.

What to do in Naples  

Food is a huge part of Italian culture, especially here in Naples so head out on a walking food tour. My choice is Secret Food Tours, ever since I did their tour in Paris, they have been my go-to. This walking tour will begin near the hotel, take you through the main streets, and between the bites speak about the historic development of this great city in an informative and often entertaining manner. Your guide will communicate using WhatsApp.

Explore on foot on your own. Visit the breathtaking Duomo di Napoli (Naples Cathedral) and the city’s many other churches like The Sansevero Chapel and San Domenico Maggiore. Dedicate at least an hour to Complesso Monumentale di Santa Chiara, a stunningly ornate and colourful majolica-tiled museum. Learn about the city’s history through its medieval fortress Castel Nuovo or head further out to the Catacombs of San Gennaro and Certosa e Museo di San Martino monastery. 

If you have enough time for day tours Naples is 30 minutes away from Pompeii and close to a famous diving center, Centro Sub Campi Flegrei Srl. The diving center offers a range of certifications and recreational courses and is located on a private beach on the shore of the Underwater Archaeology Park of Baia. Yet another unique experience.

A few other tours to consider: 

• Pompeii Ruins & Mount Vesuvius Day Tour
• Wine Tasting Tour on Vesuvius Slopes with Lunch
• Neapolitan Pizza Making Class 
• Pasta-making class in a private garden

Above and below: Complesso Monumentale di Santa Chiara

Where to eat & drink in Naples

Naples is the birthplace of the infamous Neapolitan Pizza and the people who have made it the longest are Di Matteo (Website, Google, Instagram), the food tour will stop here. Located on one of the busiest city streets surrounded by many other food vendors Di Matteo is not just a street window, there is an entire restaurant on the higher floor with a nice city view. This Neapolitan pizza is traditionally made with mouthwatering local tomatoes and soft salty cheese. 

While in Naples, get a giant pizza pocket at Caffè del Professore (Google). And when I say giant I’m not exaggerating, this is not a small snack. Down the street is a great seafood spot, Ristopescheria la Tana Della Sirena (Google), order one of their fried seafood dishes like sardines, cod, or calamari to enjoy on the side terrace or take away. 

Back in the plaza near the hotel is a great traditional Neapolitan spot called Ristorante 53 (Google). The kitchen team at his restaurant are members of the Slow Food Network working with small, quality producers. Tandem Via Paladino has a similar menu and casual atmosphere (Google). For more wine bar feels check out Vineria Bandita (Google, Instagram) and JUS (Google, Instagram). On the beverages side, Naples is home to L’Antiquario, one of the World’s 50 Best Bars (Website, Google, Instagram). Reservations are required, the drinks are expertly mixed, and a small food menu is available. Archivio Storico also comes with high promises and looks like a cool experience (Google, Instagram). 

Transit day: Naples to Amalfi

For this last leg of the journey take a taxi to the ferry terminal and enjoy a scenic ferry ride to Amalfi. This ride is about 2 hours long and costs roughly $55/per person, book on directferries.com. You will need to arrive at least 30 minutes early for check-in. This terminal gets very busy and crowded so make sure you have time for emergencies or to accommodate for various potential confusions. If you are staying in Amalfi, most hotels are pretty high up, you can hire a porter to drag your luggage up the hill. If you are staying in Atrani or along the coast, it’s a nice and scenic walk but will not be fun with bags, get a taxi. 

Stop Four: Amalfi & Atrani

The town of Amalfi is the port for the Amalfi coast. It’s a fairly small town with lots of shops, lemon gelaterias, and other souvenir vendors. Atrani is a small city commune nearby and is quite a bit less touristy. The two are connected by a coastal road which makes for a lovely walk along the shore and through the interior passages. There is an elevator that will take you to the scenic lookout in Amalfi and then you can walk down through the residential neighbourhood, a cluster of tightly woven white houses nested up the hill. 

Where to stay in Amalfi, Italy

Hotel Luna Convento is where I would like to stay for my next visit. This hotel has a private pool and access to the water as well as a beautiful scenic restaurant. La Scogliera is a bit further up closer to Atrani. This hotel has colourful rooms, scenic windows, a pool, and a restaurant with quick access to Citara Beach. For a more luxurious experience have a look at the beautiful Santa Caterina Hotel with direct access to Amalfi Beach and Anantara Convento di Amalfi Grand Hotel where some suites have private pools.

Personal note: We stayed at the Amalfi Resort which I strongly recommend against – one of those situations where it looks much better online than in person and then some. While the rooms are nice the rest of the property could use an update, the stay came with extra fees, and the only nice team member was the sweet lady serving breakfast.

Above: Collegiate Santa Maria Maddalena, Amalfi, interior and gardens, and the cathedral on the right.
Below: A few shots from Atrani including Restorante Savo on the right.

Below: Views from the observation platform.

What to do in Amalfi & Atrani

One of the main attractions in Amalfi are Chiostro del Paradiso, a Moorish-style cloister and garden (Google), and the Amalfi Cathedral (Google), both are absolutely stunning examples of Italian architecture. Note, you will need to cover your bare shoulders at the cathedral and if you don’t have something to do so they’ll give you a paper shawl.

Atrani, located just 15 minutes away walking, also has a lot of colourful historic architecture, like Collegiate Santa Maria Maddalena and the pink castle-like building near it. From the seaside, you will enter into the small public square called Piazza Umberto where you will also find the public bathroom for the nearby beach. Atrani Beach is sandy and has a beach bar, changing room amenities, and sunbeds for rent. The beach stretches all the way back to the Amalfi port broken up into different beach club businesses. Beaches in Amalfi get a bit more rocky but are still nice and all have the same amenities. All the beach images are below.

Accessing the Amalfi scenic lift/elevator

To get to the scenic lift can be tricky. First, you need to enter a parking lot and pay a small fee, here is a Google map pin from which you will see the said parking lot. The walk from the viewing platform to Atrani is really nice, but be mindful of the fact that people live there and refrain from entering their yards. 

The many regional festivals

Quite a few different festivals occur here during the warm summer season. Rome Chamber Music Festival takes place in June, in August there is Atrani’s Festa del Pesce Azzurro music and culinary festival, and in September there is a theatre festival called Teatro Regio Parma. Last year on September 9th we stumbled into a very local event based on a mythological story about water and fire, folks from across the region were out on the beach after dark celebrating, it was wonderful.

Above: Scene from a local Atrani festival. Below: Atrani as seen from the interior passages.

A few tours for consideration:

• Amalfi Organic Lemon Tour & Tasting: Private or Group Tour
• Amalfi Coast: Boat and Snorkeling Tour with a Captain
• Amalfi Coast Sunset Small-Group Boat Tour
• Capri Island Boat Tour with Snorkeling & Drinks

Lost Between Oceans also has a nice guide to off-season experiences in Amalfi.

Where to eat in Amalfi

So fun fact, the latest Equalizer was filmed in Atrani and the cafe where he spends time is Ristorante Savò Quality Food (Website, Google). Their menu is simple yet delicious. Get the pasta, get the seafood, leave room for a lemon dessert; make a reservation on WhatsApp. Back in Amalfi, there is the beachside Marina Grande (listed in the Michelin Guide) with a dining room overlooking the sea (Website, Google, Instagram). Have a glass of sparkling wine and one of the local signature dishes garlic, lemon, and clam pasta. Pizzeria Donna Stella is another well-known casual spot up a few stairs located inside an enclosed lemon garden (Google, Instagram).

Amalfi Coast is famous for its lemon desserts, both cold, like gelato, and the infamous baked Lemon Delight. Pasticceria Savoia is located in the Amalfi public square, has coffee and wine, and is a great spot for people-watching (Website, Google, Instagram).

***

At this point, our journey through Italy comes to an end. Hope you enjoyed your adventures.

The post The Guide: Italy itinerary from Tuscany to Amalfi appeared first on Paths to Travel.

Provence sprawls the Mediterranean coast of France, neighbouring the Rhone River and Côte d’Azur. If we zoom out further, the main thing to know is that this region edges on the South of France. With this in mind, it is no surprise that the most popular wine produced in this region is Rosé (88%), mostly dry and aromatic. 

With 2,600 years of winemaking history, Provence is the oldest wine-producing region in France¹. Geographically speaking, the region is quite small, but the rich variety of climate, soils, altitude, and history makes it ideal for growing a wide range of grape varietals. This very same climate also makes the South of France an ideal summer vacation destination for many Europeans who close up shops to relax on the beach and drink wine in the shade of blooming trees.

But today, we are here for the wine, so let’s get into it. If you are not too interested in learning about the viniculture of it all, skip to the Tours & Tastings section.

This article might contain affiliate links. Read the disclaimer about affiliate links & PR gifting here.
Cover image by Skye Luke.

Côtes de Provence Sub-Région

Côtes de Provence is the largest AOC in the region, churning out 75% of Provence wine. 92% of wine produced is rosé, ultimately making Provence, France, a rosé wine region. From end to end, even across this geography, wine production varies with the weather and climate and so naturally, this area is also broken down into four sub-regions: Sainte-Victoire, La Londe, Fréjus, and Pierrefeu. The vineyards take up 20,200 hectares of land, 28% of which is organic of HVE. 

HVE: stands for High Environmental Value, a French agricultural certification that recognises commitment to protecting and enriching the environment through agricultural operations. 

Côtes de Provence Varietals

Primary geology here is calcareous and crystalline, with limestones and crystalline ridging the hills and mountains facing the sea. A typical Côtes de Provence rosé is dry, light in colour, and has a fresh, flowery aroma with a mix of red and yellow fruits, and some hints of citrus and tropical fruit. The red wines, though produced sparsely, are easy to drink, have a “good tannin density,” fresh fruit profiles, and have great ageing potential. White wines, on the other hand, are fresh and clean, ideal for a sunny patio gathering. 

Red & Rosé Grapes

• Cinsault: fresh and delicate with a fruity touch, boosts other varietals in the blend.
• Grenache: full-body wine with berry and spice flavours, and meaty notes.
• Mourvèdre: robust wines with assertive tannins, hints of violet and blackberry, smooth with notes of spice.
• Syrah: rich in tannins, hints of vanilla, and candied red fruits.
• Tibouren: authentically a Provence grape and can only be found here; delicate and elegant wines, rich bouquet, mostly used for rosé.
  Lesser found red/rose varietals: Carignan, Counoise, Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Braquet, Calitour, Folle Noir, and Barbaroux.

White Grapes

• Clairette: southern grape, aromatic, notes of white fruits, fennel, and lime blossom.
• Rolle (Vermentino): adds fineness into a blend, notes of citrus, pear, almond, and fennel.
• Sémillon: often used to add viscosity to a blend, notes of hazelnut, honey, apricot, and white flowers.
• Ugni Blanc (Trebbiano): a juicy and fruity grape, quite delicate, adds freshness to a blend.
  Lesser found white varietals: Bourboulenc, Clairette, Marsanne, Roussanne, Pascal, Terret Blanc, Spagnol (Mayorquin), and Pignerol. 

Wine Tours & Tastings in Côtes de Provence

This adventure was impromptu, but knowing that many European wine regions will only open doors by reservation, I frantically Googled the night before. In a nutshell, many of the wineries are open for tasting and visitation without an appointment if you are willing to go for a drive. Tours of the facilities are by reservation only, but many of them have beautiful open properties with sitting areas where you can relax with a glass of wine. If in doubt, search Google reviews for the word “tasting”. Note that a lot of businesses in this part of the world close for lunch, this could be any time between 12 pm and 2 pm.

We stayed at the Hôtel Escapade in Le Pradet, a small community near the beach, and this drive was absolutely magical. Moving away from the shores into the vineyards, we saw wide open fields, almost desert-like sun-kissed lands that felt like an entirely new place. 

If you are not interested in driving, here are some organised tour options:

Wineries to visit

There are quite a few wineries spread across the region. Not all of them offer tastings or are for visitors, and that information might be hard to find. Always check the winery’s website in case the opening hours have changed. 

Château des Bormettes

A centuries-old family winery with a vast vineyard and a cellar dating back to the 17th century. This tasting was exceptionally fun and insightful. The tasting room is open Monday to Friday from 10 am to 12 pm and from 2 pm to 6 pm. 

Wines to try: try the rose, try the white, but this is the place to dig into the reds. Their Syrahs are quite delicious, and the plot selection bottles are very unique to the terroir. 

Website | Instagram | Google Map

Château le Bastidon

Family-owned production of wines and olive trees. The first thing that will catch your attention is their enclosed yard with garden furniture and flowering plants. And then there is, of course, the wine. The tasting room is open throughout the week with mixed hours, but is always closed from 12 pm to 2 pm. 

Wines to try: The winery is famous for the roses, but whites are also lovely. I particularly enjoyed the Le Bastion lineup of single varietals and blended roses. Pink Seduction Rose Vintage is also a must-try.

Website | Instagram | Google Map

Domaine De Saint Andre de Figueres

Stunning, family-owned winery focusing on organic viticulture. The tasting room shares space with the shop and is open Tuesday to Saturday from 10 am to 1 pm and from 2 pm to 6 pm. Figueres also has a restaurant on the premises showcasing local and seasonal ingredients; reservations are recommended. 

Wines to try: while they do produce rose, white, and red wines, Figueres specialises in rose and has plenty of it available for tasting and purchase. The Première vintages collection was all quite enjoyable, a great bottle to bring home.

Website | Instagram | Google Map

Hôtel Escapade in Le Pradet, France.

Where to stay in the region

Accomodations throughout the wine regions are quite limited so most people opt to stay closer to the beach. Hôtel Escapade in Le Pradet was that choice for us, a beautiful historic building close to the beach and restaurants. See the hotel review.

Hôtel Escapade, Le Pradet
Room  prices starting at €129/night
1 Rue de Tartane, 83220 Le Pradet, France
Book directly on hotel-escapade.com or your favourite booking website: Expedia | TripAdvisor | Hotels.com

Find more hotels

1. ︎

Source: Wine Folly

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A culinary scene of its own

This entire adventure started with Heart’s Tavern in Kimberley (Ontario). It came recommended as a place to eat through the grapevine. This roadside tavern is a passion project of two restaurateurs, Teo Paul and Tyler Wilson (Union and Côte de Boeuf). A neon sign graces this cottage-style building, that casual atmosphere continues throughout into what is now two buildings connected with a narrow dining room. The menu is seasonal, focused on local produce, and as much as possible is done in-house. Pickled. Cured. Smoked. Just out there in the field, my eyes spot the smoker through the window. 

This is a small community. People know each other well and without hesitation share recommendations. In Thornbury, two restaurants, in particular, caught our eye: Fabbrica (from the McEwan Group) and Bruce Wine Bar. Fabbrica is an Italian restaurant located mere minutes from the Bruce Wine Bar. Fabbrica has a lovely heated patio and a rich selection of hearty meals. From muscles to pizza and pasta, there is a lot to choose from. Bruce Wine Bar, on the other hand, also works as a bottle shop, but in addition to their impressive collection of wine, there is a lovely minimal menu with filling snacks and deliciously dressed salads. 

A visit to Blue Mountain would not be complete without beers and oysters at Penny’s Motel & Apres. A small indoor dining area (primarily bar stools) is amplified by casual seating around an outdoor fire pit, a picnic table, and a sizable patio. Here you will find, in addition to the oysters and beer of course, a selection of small snacks, pizza, wine, and cocktails. 

Bonus: Stop by the Kimberley General Store, for fresh bread and Amish butter. 

Family-friendly cidery

While this region might not be at the top of the list when it comes to wineries and breweries it certainly has a lot to offer. Grey & Gold Cider is a sustainable, farm-based cidery and a community staple. With live music at sunset and other celebrations, this farm is a place to gather, mix, and mingle.

Adventurous cold-climate wines

Further into the hills are a handful of wineries. Georgian Hills Vineyards was our first stop. The visitors are invited to taste a selection of their cool climate wines at the indoor and outdoor tasting bars or by the fire pit. The views in each direction are sprawling greenery and vines, perfectly complementing the local wines.

Further up the hill is the Roost Wine Company. The scenic drive to the gate cannot prepare you enough for the view at the top of the hill. It feels like the highest point of the region (aside from the actual Blue Mountain that is) and offers a spectacular view of the rolling forestry and vineyards. In their own words, The Roos Winery is “dedicated to pushing the boundaries of cold climate wines on the fringes of Ontario’s winemaking territory”. On the menu, you will find interesting sparkling wines (think Pet Nat), some orange, and a selection of other interesting grapes like Marquette and Foch. 

A quaint stay

Penny’s Motel is a boutique roadside destination. Family project of John Belknap (co-owner of John and Sons Oyster House) and his family. The property is a showcase of local artisan talent and the classiest 70s throwback one can imagine. Each room has a mood of its own while the shared spaces are built to facilitate casual social interactions. There is plenty of sitting, a large fire pit with cozy blankets, a sundeck room, and even a small tin pool (open seasonally). The rooms themselves are a bit small but the shower is spacious, the shared space is a party, and the restaurant is a destination within itself.

Make it a long weekend with a few days up on the slopes (Blue Mountain) and a day out relaxing at the Scandinave Spa Blue Mountain. 

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“There is so much to do and see” I kept thinking to myself, constantly debating between sitting back and enjoying my time or trying to document every square inch of the property. So as you read through this review and virtually walk through the gardens in the many photos, plan for a longer stay with as few solid plans as possible. Allegretto is best experienced with a relaxed state of mind. 

This article might contain affiliate links. Read the disclaimer about affiliate links & PR gifting here.
The stay was hosted by Allegretto Vineyard Resort Paso Robles, which did not review or approve the story.

The arch entries lead into ground-floor rooms with a view of the Piazza. On the right is one of the many seating areas in the Piazza.

On Art & Architecture 

A third-generation hotelier Douglas Ayres came to Paso Robles in 2002 and fell in love with the beauty and agriculture of the region. By 2015 this love interest materialized into a 171-room hotel built in the style of a Tuscan Villa. Douglas’ most personal project yet Allegretto is filled to the brim with culture, vision, and history. Many of the art and antique pieces were brought from Ayres’ travels. Many were commissioned specifically for the resort. And some, are quite literally built into the walls thus creating a sense of “walking through time”.

Here at the Allegretto, we’re recreating a small town with the village walls, the monastery (cloistered courtyard) and the chapel.

~ Douglas Ayres

The two stone figures seen framing the staircase and looking over the firepits are custom sculpted for Doug Ayres in Vicenza, Italy. The two figures represent male and female muses, the male (top left) is removing his mask to symbolize vulnerability.

The entirety of the property is built following the philosophy of harmony. At the centre of the property is a 12,000-square-foot courtyard called “Piazza Del Magico”. The Piazza footprint, hidden from the raw eye, forms the shape of a cello, which you will hear playing in the background throughout the day. The Piazza is a gathering place. On the far side are two parquets with fire pits, closer to the lobby is a wine-tasting patio and a cafe terrace, often used for private functions. A looping square pathway wraps around the interior, shaded by an impressive growth of trees and flower bushes. The centrepiece of Piazza Del Magico is a fountain: two intersecting circles with a sandstone rock statue in the middle representing the “movement of creation”. 

One of the many beautiful sculptures on the property followed by a life-size chess board and yet another sculpture.

The interior of the hotel is a showcase of Douglas’ finds and if you visit on the weekend you can take a docent-guided art tour. The surrounding area is lush with gardens all leading to the vineyard on a hill. Various outdoor games are scattered, sometimes almost hidden throughout the gardens. Chess here. Ping pong table there. In the evening the guests are invited to enjoy a cocktail by a fireplace in the lobby or cozy up with a blanket by one of the bowl fire pits.

It is no surprise that such a property would be of high interest for special occasions like weddings and graduation parties. To the far side of the building is an Abbey, built specifically for the celebration of love and life. This small, non-denominational building is modeled after the chapels of Europe. The Abbey is adorned with custom-made stained glass windows depicting a range of ancient symbols, world religions, and spiritualities. 

Abbey interior and one of the gardens used for weddings and special events and the roof of the abbey with the bell tower behind in on the right. Below: The gazebo in Manzanillo North Garden icarved with breathtaking details.

Just a few examples of antiques: sculpture and table, entryway built into the resort building, and these flowers that look like a Still Life painting. Below: Sequoia Room on the ground floor.

Left: Ganesha, the elephant-headed Hindu god of beginnings. Centre: The painted ceiling of the exterior entry. On the far right: A large figure from Rajasthan India with the mirror behind it reflecting eternity and calling people to togetherness in peace.

Winery & Wine Tastings

Allegretto Wines began with a purchase of a seventeen-acre cabernet sauvignon vineyard in the Willow Creek District. Viognier, Vermentino, Malbec, Tannat, and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes were later planted in a separate, 20-acre property allowing the team to produce a wide range of experimental and classic wines. Tannat, a red wine grape originating in the South of France, is their hero grape and during the tasting, you can try a mix of its iterations over the years. 

The wines are available at the resort in the Willow Creek Tasting Room. It is a cozy room with an outdoor terrace. Here, you can purchase a glass of wine or sit down for a guided tasting. During the tasting, you will learn about the climate, process, and various unique techniques and flavours used in the development of Allegretto Wines. 

The tasting room is open to anyone interested in learning about the wines so even if you are not a guest you can come in and enjoy a glass or four and soak in the views of the Piazza. Through a tunnel on the other end, the visitors are invited to take a stroll through the vineyard. This vineyard is shaped like a circle, communicating a warm welcome for the guests. Naturally, this shape is not the most desirable for the wine production team but as a garden walk it is certainly very social. 

The wine-tasting tour is $30 per person and $45 for non-resort guests.

Sample tasting menu. This only has red and rose options but Allegretto Wines do make white wine as well.

Make sure to order a charcuterie to with your tasting, the selection of cheeses, meats, and side accoutrements is amazing! The limestone rock on the right was recently found in the vineyard indicating that at some point in history, this place was an ocean floor. This limestone does well for the grapes. Rose and two Cavarnets are to be tasted side-by-side for comparison.

Inside the Suite 

The rooms have impressively high ceilings and no matter which way you face the view will always be nice. Each unit begins with a standard setup: one or two beds, a desk, a wardrobe with a coffee station and a mini fridge, a sitting area, and a spacious bathroom. Prelude King Room (pictured here) has access to the Piazza. The room doors swing open to welcome the music and fresh air into the room. Outside is your individual terrace with a garden table and two chairs, a perfect setup for a sunset happy hour. One-bedroom King will have a fireplace and some of the second-floor suites have a balcony overlooking the Piazza. 

Allegretto Resort is pet-friendly and accessible. 

Prelude King Room piazza view through the patio door.

Dining, Entertainment & Activities

Cello Restaurante and Bar 

Situated on the ground floor to the right of the entrance Cello Restaurante and Bar offers upscale casual dining to guests and Paso Robles locals. The Mediterranean-inspired menu features generously portioned seafood and meat dishes expertly crafted by Chef Jeremy D. Fike. 

Your dining options range from locally sourced scallops and fish to whole milk Burrata, crisp green salads, and hearty pasta or grilled meats. Shrimp and scallops can be added to any dish. Many of these plates are dippable by design – shrimp juices, various sauces, and delicious olive oils can all be soaked up with an in-house baked ciabatta. The liquid libations menu includes a range of Allegretto favourites, French, Italian and local wines as well as a selection of craft cocktails and beers. 

Seasonal shrimp appetizer, a glass of Allegretto’s Cello Grenache Blanc Seven Seas Pasta on the right. Below: Cello Restaurante interior and a classic margarita cocktail on the right.

Things to do

There is a lot. There is so much to do that at first I was overwhelmed and overstimulated. Exploring on your own can take hours. If taken slowly enough with wine breaks possibly days. Piazza alone has many nooks and sitting corners for reading, sipping wine, and having conversations with your resort neighbours. The interior halls weave in and out of shared spaces. The lobby with a custom fireplace has weekend serenades. Past the staircase is the Sequoia Room with another fireplace, games table, and a slice of a giant Sequoia tree. From this room, you can enter the Piazza or sit down for a video art tour in the connected conference room.

The outdoor spaces wrap all around the resort. In the far right corner is a swimming pool. Lined with a string of cabanas the pool has a lovely view of the vineyard and resort architecture peeking through the tall trees. Beyond it is the vineyard garden and to the side of the building are Manzillo and Mission Gardens. The gardens are all connected by a “Star Garden Trail” – “a journey through heavens on the sacred lands of Paso Robles”. Each stop represents a Zodiac constellation, the environment around it naturally changing from one season to the other.

There are many experiences organized by the resort. From the above-mentioned wine tastings and tours to weekend yoga, art walks, and musical entertainment. You can even taste local olive oil during a guided tasting with San Miguel Olive Farms. The guests can also borrow bright yellow tandem bikes to cruise around the region. 

Do not miss: George the alpaca and his friendly sheep friends at the far end of the resort. Make sure to check in with the front desk about the location and feeding schedule.

One of the stops on the Star Garden Trail on the right, at the top of the vineyard.

Wellness & Fitness 

Resort of such grander will of course also have a spa. Spa Allegretto is open daily for massage, facial, and body treatments. On the weekends the resorts host Yoga in the Abbey, available to guests only ($15) and all guests have access to a fitness center. This gym is quite spacious with a decent range of equipment and French doors opening to the Piazza. 

* * *

Allegretto Vineyard Resort Paso Robles
Rooms starting at $249 USD / Queen or King
2700 Buena Vista Dr, Paso Robles, CA 93446, United
Book directly on allegrettovineyardresort.com or your favourite booking website: Booking.com | Expedia | TripAdvisor | Hotels.com

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Luxembourg wine country lives along the Moselle River, which serves as a wine route and stretches from north-eastern France through Luxembourg to western Germany. A short walk or drive over the bridge from any town along the river bank and you enter Germany. 

A few basics

Grape varieties: Riesling, Pinot noir, Pinot blanc, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Auxerrois, Rivaner, Elbling, and Chardonnay.

Must-try wine: Luxembourgish champagne is called Crémant and there are many delicious options.

Wine culture differs from country to country and the North American setup I’m used to isn’t always the type of hospitality everywhere. In Portugal for example, without an appointment you can’t even see the vineyard but that’s a whole other story. Simialry, in Luxembourg most places require a tasting reservation.

While planning this day trip I looked at nearly every winery on the Luxembourg side of the river. Out of those which were open to visitors many simply advised you to visit their wine bar. Most wine bars open after 3 pm. In many instances, as expected, to make a tasting reservation you either need to call or email. As a result, my last-minute planning wasn’t very fruitful so we made reservations for those that allowed online booking. 

When visiting again in 2021, we were able to make reservations ahead of time. This allowed us to visit cellars and have a more immersive tasting experience, much like in the pre-pandemic times.

Caves Bernard-Massard

This is Luxembourg’s main and oldest producer of sparkling wine. The guided cellar tour was followed by a tasting on their deck overlooking the river, a beautiful space to sit back and relax. We got to try 3 different sparklings including the limited edition 100-year Anniversary Cuvée 1921 – Crémant de Luxembourg – really nice and crisp flavours. Having done Champagne tours in the past my sister and I are quite familiar with how it is made but with this visit, we learned a few new things. For example, Luxembourgish winemakers often use concrete tanks to store large batches of wine. I’m talking two-floor room-size tank that you can only get into through a tiny oval hole above the ground.

Caves St Martin

Another dark and wet cellar tour and it was pretty awesome. They too have concrete tanks but only use them to move massive batches of wine around. St. Martin produces a pretty large selection of wines including the rarity that is white Pinot Noir! We had 3 flights of 3 wines. Realizing that we don’t need to have any of them the same so we tried 9! Took a batch of Pinot Noirs (red) home because it is delicious.

The cellars were founded back in 1919 and the rooms are dug into the rock where they extend for a nearly kilometer!

Caves Henri Ruppert

The winery and restaurant are located on high ground, overlooking the valley. The building is very unique and reminiscent of those “look at me” LA type of private homes. But this one is classy, modern, and makes sense. We didn’t do a tour here but we did try a wide range of wines over dinner. The restaurant is a unique space, table are set up around a small pool overlooking the valley. It is a spectacular place to see the sun set on the side, in Germany.

Their focus is harvesting the best possible grapes, harvesting exclusively manually over a short period of time. The wines are then aged in wood or stainless steel barrels. The restaurant selection is quite tight showcasing a range of local-tasting snacks, seafood bites, and a handful of other goodies.

Domaine Vinsmoselle is Luxembourg’s first wine and crémant producer and offers tastings in 5 different locations. We booked two (2019):

Domaines Vinsmoselle in Wellenstein

A large wine production facility with a spacious tasting room located on the outskirts of Wellenstein. This is a small but lovely town surrounded by vineyards. We chose the “Wine Lover Tasting” which included 7, mostly white varietals, from premier and grand cru regions. The visit was a proper sit-down tasting and we had a great time learning and chit-chatting with our lovely host. 

Poll-Fabaire in Wormeldange

Here for the tasting, we were ushered into the wine bar, handed a 3-page brochure, and left to our own devices to learn about the wines 2 bottles of crémant at a time. There was also cheesecake, so that helped. The wine bar seemed like a popular spot for dates and hangouts and most people were drinking Crémant Rosé Brut.

Domaine Viticole Schumacher-Lethal

Right next door to Vinsmoselle cupped by a stunning vineyard you can see from the road, people strolling through it taking pictures. The wine bar has a lovely view of the river and a great wine selection. 

Bonus:
Ramborn Cider Haff

The one and only cidery in Luxembourg. Located in the heart of Rouspert-Mompech the producers take full advantage of the community harvest. In fact, the story goes is the neighborhood had way more apples they could consume so they opened a cidery to use up all of those apples and pairs. It is a very community-focused, sustainable production, they even use those tiny sour apples that no one wants to eat.

Here you can get a guided tour, see cellars, go for a long and lovely hike around the town and through the orchards, or simply sit down under the shade of a patio umbrella for a tasting of their entire lineup. We did the latter, and it was great!

Note: Make lunch plans ahead of time, most places stop serving food between lunch and dinner so you might be limited to eating baked goods. 

To end the day with a great sunset view drive up the hill to Koeppchen, one of the most famous vineyards in the region wrapping around a small chapel. From up here, through the isles of grape bushes, you get a nearly 360-degree view of the town and the Moselle River. The setting sun on a good day makes this a fairly tear-inducing experience, not kidding, I almost cried. 

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The county spans 800km of shorelines with two beautiful beaches and a handful of quaint small towns. The towns are slowly gentrifying and opening doors to boutique shops and restaurants while holding on to historic spots and antique family markets. Our short adventure was an overnight stay with a loosely planned itinerary and sadly, pretty poor weather. But “the wind cannot stop us from enjoying this mini-vacation” I kept telling myself clutching onto a wool scarf while letting the heels sink into the send: “This is nice”.

This article might contain affiliate links. Read the disclaimer about affiliate links & PR gifting here. 

The grapes

There are 20 wineries across Prince Edward County, some are clustered together, others a bit more remote. The moderated temperatures of the region are sponsored by nothing other than Lake Ontario. But unlike the sister region South of the city, PEC has a unique flavor advantage created by the calcareous limestone and clay deposits in the soil. This composition fosters the growth of colder-climate European grapes. 

The first stop entering the county is Redtail Vineyards. It is a lovely property with a shaded outdoor tasting area and a few tables out in the field. The wines are produced using traditional methods with minimal intervention creating what the winemakers call a “true representation of vintage and terroir”.  After tasting a flight of 4 wines we both agreed on taking home a bottle of Fumé Gris and some Pinot Noir.

Having booked a sit-down tasting at 3:30 pm there was still some time to kill so we dropped by the Grange of Prince Edward Vineyards. At the time they only offered pre-packaged tasting flights (3 small sample bottles and a signature glass). Up next was Hinterland Wine Company whose cozy indoor tasting room I wouldn’t mind making a regular spot. At Hinterland the guests are invited to choose one of 3 tasting options, one of which features sparkling and other nontraditional wines. Both flights were a delightful surprise with Les Etoiles bubbly and L’Imparfait Négociant Famille Pinot being particularly fascinating. The latter is a collaboration between the winery and Chef David MacMillan of Joe Beef, Montreal. This was a limited release and may be no longer available.

For the sit-down tasting, we joined the Closson Chase team at their off-site location for a small group experience. This curated one-hour tasting takes place in a spacious room, heated by a small fireplace. The tasting was guided by a knowledgeable and entertaining sommelier. He walked us through 4 wine and food pairings peppered with wine education. Sitting across two other couples in a classroom-like environment, making jokes, and discussing each other’s faults in following the teacher’s instructions was quite fun. 

One of the new discoveries for me and a must-visit for the next trip is Karlo Estates. A humble 200+-year-old barn that houses an artisanal winery, proudly making natural wine with minimal intervention. What made this spot distinctly special is its tasting room. The tasting room is accessed through the wine shop. It is a cozy space, decorated with red-themed Victorian furniture, with a dimly lit low ceiling. The room feels like a swanky speakeasy one could spend many hours in, discussing literature and the current state of affairs (see a brief walkthrough reel here). 

The brews

PEC is well known for its breweries, many of which are very new, popping up throughout the county like spring flowers with vast outdoor hangout areas and long lists of beers. Many of these spots are not open early in the week, which is when we were visiting. But even with the little time that we had left, we found some really fun spots to cozy up in.

Parsons Brewing Co., located in Picton, is a beautiful family-owned property wrapping around a newly built multi-level barn, serving up sustainable craft beers. A short drive away is Prince Eddy’s Brewing Co., recommended to us by the Cannery Row shop team. This is a surf-inspired style brewery producing ultimate summer beers. On cold days, the only tasting room is a balcony above the taproom. This room is cheerfully wallpapered with tropical plant motifs and equipped with ping pong and foosball tables. From here the guests get a full view of the production process as it happens. Another well-established local favorite is Midtown Brewing Company. Located in the heart of Wellington this is also a popular lunch and dinner spot.

The stay: Drake Devonshire 

One of the main reasons we went on this adventure was my longing desire to return to the Drake Devonshire*. This time of the year they were participating in Countylicious. The event is a county-wide foodie event that allows diners to relish in some of the best farm-to-table chef’s menus as set courses.

The hotel is the sister property of the Drake which has been a staple in Toronto for many years. This is a century-old Devonshire Inn recently revamped by ERA architects and interior designer John Tong of +tongtong inc. This group also designed Her Majesty’s Pleasure and Annex Residences, among many other notable city spots. The property is sitting directly on the lake, evoking an easy-to-tap-into sense of peace.

The hotel* has a modern yet cozy feel, drawing on the shades of wood, beach, and water with a bold mix of graffiti and choice pieces like a long, tub-shaped century couch in the common room. Naturally, there is a lot of modern art placed across the hotel and outdoors – the Drake Hotel has always been a supporter of the local art community. Rooms are tastefully decorated with notes of playful humor sprinkled in unexpected places like the flea market found old paintings. The bathrooms are a simple balance of black and white, spacious and inviting, complemented by oversized bathrobes.

With the weather dipping into cold temperatures, all guests are invited to roast marshmallows by the fire pit in the Motor Inn hotel extension across the street or simply enjoy a cookie and a bottle of complimentary local wine in the room as a nightcap. 

After indulging in a 3-course Countylicious meal we chose to spend the rest of the evening in my favorite part of the hotel: the exposed glass box games room. Here the guests can play ping pong, foosball, or Four In A Row with a cocktail one may have carried out of the bar. 

To facilitate social distancing the restaurant has been extended into the entertainment room which also looks out on the lake. At night the view is almost absent – the darkness of the county sets in well with minimal light pollution and the vastness of the lake – but in the morning the lake offers a great view to ponder over at breakfast. 

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You can spend many days driving around Jordan and Beamsville, tasting wines, strolling through vineyards, and enjoying outdoor dining at sunset – a truly wonderful way to spend a weekend. We’ve broken down the story into categories: wineries, breweries, attractions and accommodations. There is no dining-specific section because many wineries offer food, and some have really wonderful dining options you can take advantage of for lunch or dinner.

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Wineries:

Rosewood Estates Winery & Meadery

Here at Rosewood, they make wine and honey, both of which you can purchase on-site or have home delivered. The vineyard is surrounded by a beautiful view that you can enjoy during an outdoor tasting, sitting back in a Muskoka chair. The indoor space has a shop and a few dining tables, the decor is clean and modern, with a balance of farm chic, and a bit of futurism accented by beehive decor. As of this summer, they also serve food, all locally sourced and prepared on-site this menu is a range of delicious cold dishes.

Favourite wines: Neptune (Riesling), Riesling AF, Night Moves (Gamay Noir), and The Looking Glass (red blend).

The Good Earth Food and Wine Co.

This is a stunning property with an on-site restaurant (reserved well in advance), a separate wine-tasting area, and miles of peach orchards and vines surrounding the property. The winery has been open since 1998 and has a reputation for well-made tasteful wines set against a stunning garden backdrop that many people choose as their wedding venue. The restaurant on the property is a hot destination for locals and winery visitors; advance reservations are highly recommended (online or over the phone). The dining area in the summer spans from the garden to the backyard, where occasionally there is also live music.

Favourite wines: Riesling, Rosé, and Gamay.

Fielding Estate Winery

Wine Lodge on top of the Beamsville Bench with a lovely view. They have a patio and do seated tastings, which require reservations, but you could get a glass of wine as a walk-in and enjoy it at a picnic table in the backyard. Fielding Estate also make cider. 

Favourite wines: Estate Bottled Riesling

Redstone Winery & Restaurant

Fairly large property with indoor and outdoor dining and a tasting room. Our AirBNB was within walking distance so Redstone was perfect for dinner. The outdoor patio has lots of heating lamps, a fireplace, and a stunning view of the sunset over fields of grapes. The food was quite wonderful and our server added to the experience with her cheerful attitude. You can get a sample flight of wines or choose by the glass or bottle. 

Favourite wines: Sparkling.  

Featherstone Estate Winery & Vineyard

So this place is super cute: there is an outdoor veranda that they doubled in size this year, you can get a cheese fondue with a tasting of wine, and there is a falconry on the property. You can just pop in to hang out and grab a flight of wines or pre-book one of their fun experiences ahead of time.

Favourite wine: Sauvignon Blanc and Gamay Noir

Kacaba Vineyards

This is a premium small-batch winery located a short drive from Bench Brewing. The owner of the winery, Michael Kacaba, use to work as a lawyer on Bay St., and when that was enough, he took up winemaking and has been doing so since 1997. The property is quite spacious with a nice outdoor area, offering plenty of space to relax and grab a catered snack on the weekend.

Favourite wines: Reserve Riesling, Effervescence Sparkling.

13th Street Winery

Another very popular spot with a great lunch menu and an on-site bakery. This location does get very busy, and people do line up for the bakery, but the meal is worth the wait. The property is an open field with a sculpture garden and an art gallery. Full sit-down tastings are by reservation only, but you can try wine in the garden. 

Favourite wines: June’s Vineyard Riesling, Reserve Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, and Premier Cuvée Sparkling.

Alvento Winery

This winery is located a bit out of the strip, but it is a fairly short and beautiful drive. The winery barn is located near a nursery and surrounded by a vineyard. Indoor and outdoor tastings are available, and they have a very healthy selection of wines. After the tasting, take a little stroll to get a full view of the building and a peek into the vineyard. 

Favourite wines: Riesling, Sparkling Rosé, North Wind (white blend), Boreas (red blend), and Cabernet Sauvignon (2012)

Westcott Vineyards

Another fairly small winery with a beautiful on-site outdoor restaurant in a tent overlooking the vines with a phenomenal sunset view. The seasonal patio restaurant has a fairly extensive menu, all prepared in the outdoor wood-burning oven in front of the guests. Highly recommend, find a sample menu on westcottvineyards.com.

Malivoire Wine Company

Really cool building, partially located inside a banker-like structure. They offer guided tastings by reservation or self-indulgent tastings out in the yard. The grape bushes grow up a hill away from the tasting room, making this location perfect for an intimate stroll with many photo ops [image above]. 

Favourite wines: Albert’s Honour Old Vines Foch, Small Lot Gamay, and Estate Grown Chardonnay

Tawse Winery

Sister (father?) winery to Redstone, this winery has a wide selection of wines and spirits, which you can taste on their enclosed, beautiful outdoor garden patio. They also sell some tasty jams and fresh potato chips to go with your wine tastings. 

Favourite wines: Guy Lafleur Cuvee Chardonnay and Spark Riesling – Limestone Ridge

Domaine Queylus Winery

Located on the outskirts of the area, this is a unique and private space in a newly renovated cabin with a tasting room extension. The outdoor terrace has curtained seating areas that feel like cabanas, a view of a field, and a couple of ponds. For a snack, you can get a charcuterie, which comes in a pizza box, thoroughly enjoyed that.

Favourite wines: Reserve du Domain Pinot Noir and Tradition Chardonnay

Hidden Bench Estate Winery

Lovely, quiet spot with a terrace where you can taste a range of wines by the glass. This winery does offer special experience tastings which you need to book ahead of time. This winery is owned and operated by Harald Thiel and his family and primarily focuses on Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling – very common in this region.

Favourite wines: Blanc de Blanc sparkling, need to return to try a few more.

Organized Crime Winery

Second-generation family-owned, small boutique winery with a sloping yard overlooking the nearby vineyard. Their wine selection is quite rich and in 2019 OCW placed in 3 top spots in the National Wine Awards of Canada. The backyard has plenty of sitting with a view and occasionally they have daily tasting specials. This is also one of the few wineries that open till 6 pm (but do check their site to be sure).

Breweries:

Bench Brewing Company

Near Redstone is the Bench Brewing Company, which seems like the most popular spot in the area and may be hard to get in, but if you do, make sure to try one of their pretzels! Here you can get flights, samples, full pints, and a hearty meal. A fun fact about this building is it used to be a school, so the architectural transformation is quite interesting. 

Newark Brewing Company

New craft brewery in Beamsville that offers food from Blue Collar Kitchen, beer tastings (Dunkel, Helles, Wit, and Dubbel), and live music on some nights. For the guests in your party who might want or need other options, there is also wine and cider available on the menu.

Attractions & Accommodations:

The Juniper Inn

Located a little bit out of the way in St. Catharines, this is a boutique hotel with lovely decor, cosy beds, and great service. Some friends of mine stayed here before and really enjoyed it, and knowing that we might want to go out in the evening, this seemed like a good chance to try it out. The Inn is operated by self-check-in, which is convenient if you don’t know what time you might be arriving. We arrived quite late and were pleasantly surprised by the interior and a greeting tray with snacks and sparkling wine waiting for us on the bed. Each room has a uniquely different decor, ours (Room R) is inspired by the Hollywood-style rock n’ roll.

If you need some early morning adventure, Ball’s Falls Conservation Area has a lot to explore, from old-timy houses to waterfalls and hikes. There are different ways to get to the waterfall; some offer a view from the top, some from the bottom. This entrance is close to the parking lot.

To break up the winery strolls, pop into Prudhomme’s Antique Market and the Jordan Harbour Marina [very last image] and go for a walk to see the abandoned pirate ship, La Grande Hermine.

Don’t feel like planning & driving yourself? Use a guide

• Taste the Bench wine tours
• Winery tours of Niagara

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