Chef Malcolm Campbell on refining terroir dining inside Mystic Nova Scotia

When Freehand Hospitality approached Chef Malcolm Campbell with the concept for Mystic Nova Scotia, he thought it was too good to be true. “It was almost like a pinch-me moment,” he admitted.

As a young adult, Malcolm Campbell wanted to be a photographer, but like most teenagers entering adulthood, he needed a job. The early days involved working in casual restaurants with his friends, “like a bunch of misfits, we had a lot of fun”. With time, the interest in culinary arts grew into a passion. Having completed The Red Seal and VCC’s culinary programs, Campbell decided to spend some time abroad, reconnecting with his Scottish roots in the UK. The Ritz London was the ultimate launchpad to what grew into a rapid culinary pursuit from London to Lyon, Toronto, and eventually, Halifax.

Soft murmurs of Mystic were drifting through Halifax long before Air Canada named it Best New Restaurant in Canada. Tucked away under a 40-foot interactive sculpture, Tidal Beacon in Queen’s Marque, Mystic blends into the environment. Through a dimly lit entry, guests are welcomed by a wide-open space, illuminated by natural light from the Halifax Harbour. Pine green upholstery, driftwood panels and furnishings, subtly layered textures, and weathered stone in the dining room bring the natural landscape in. A gallery of found natural objects is curated across the chef’s galley – a foreground to a team creating dishes with surgical precision in a soundless open kitchen. 

Kateryna Topol: Is Mystic the one that finally feels like home?

Chef Malcolm Campbell: I mean, everyone looks for that perfect job, but for years, it was very hard to get all of it in one place….I got this opportunity at Mystic, and everything just kind of lined up, and I was like, “Say that again?” I got to hire 3-4 people who used to work with me before because I know how they work, and having that trust level in somebody, especially for something like Mystic, is very important. We just clicked as a team with the front of the house too, everyone came together pretty seamlessly.

When you think of the menu from when we opened to now, I’d like to think there is a huge improvement in the way we run the kitchen, the way we do service. There are things we need to work on for sure, but that’s the daily grind, the refinement, it’s been a pleasure so far. It’s been really, really fun.

…It’s the first time in a long time that I’m really, really enjoying my job.

Chef Malcolm Campbell

KT: Very cool. In the restaurant description, there is this wholesome statement about your people and how they are “the storytellers of this land, sea, and air” – can you please speak to this a bit

CMC: Yeah, definitely, even before we opened, we did a lot of foraging. It was the end of summer, there was so much out there, we were trying to find farms and unique ingredients and suppliers, and it was just a massive learning curve that, I think, we’ve all enjoyed so much. We try to keep to the Maritimes, and if not, there are some things we do get from other spots in Canada, but primarily, the dish needs to speak of Nova Scotia with the ingredients.

Some ingredients are ok to mix, selfishly also because there are a lot of ingredients I love to use at the fine dining level that may not be from Nova Scotia, but the question is: how could I use that as a vessel to showcase what is from Nova Scotia? Foie gras is a great example, no one is really making foie gras here, but everything else on that dish is Nova Scotia: the berries, the local foraged sumac, all those other things come together to make that dish a Nova Scotia dish.

Mystic restaurant exterior and summer Discovery Menu. Images by Kateryna Topol.

KT: Our server mentioned he forges for you near his cabin. Is that common among the team?

CMC: Yeah, I take some things from home as well. My wife is from Chech Republic, and she likes to grow. We always have a little garden going, so sometimes I’ll come into the backyard and take a little bit of this and a little bit of that and bring it to work with me. With the Discovery menu as well, you can change it daily. I don’t have to have it costed out and written out, it doesn’t have to go to print, we do everything in-house. One of our SAs, Harper, has beautiful handwriting, so she writes the menus by hand, and they look gorgeous. The next day, it’s like change this and change that, we got five of these at the market, I found some baby strawberries on the trails, and we kind of put a dish together.

We have 15 portions, and then it’s gone. I have stuff in the restaurant from my daughter – this big shell she found in the backyard in the garden, I cleaned it and brought it to work. There are little bits of coral and ocean rock from my fish tank that now live on the rail in the chef’s galley. And some antlers from Cape Breton, you know, some little trinkets here and there.

KT: How did you go about learning how to forage?

CMC:  The district chef, Bill Osborne, was a great support for a lot of things. He had already been foraging to gear towards Mystic. And my sous chef, Cameron Benns, does a lot of that as well… There are a couple of books floating around about Nova Scotia terroir, what’s edible and so on. I will always steer away from mushrooms personally, so we use an expert, Fred Dardenne, from WildFoods. He does a lot of foraging for us, knows where the spots are and gets mushrooms that are harder to find and don’t have a big yield.

KT: I’ve heard you are seen at Farmer’s Markets quite often

CMC: Yeah, usually in the summer. It’s so much better than ordering from big suppliers, especially when we are not crazy busy and don’t have time to wander around the woods for 3-4 hours. We just buy enough of what we need for a day or two. And all the farmers are there, so it’s a good selection of different things from the island. We get to support local farmers and have great relationships with them. There are a few that we really like, like the saffron farm located about an hour and a half from here. They have the best saffron I’ve ever tried, and I can get it fresh-grown in Nova Scotia, it blew me away. It’s primarily used in our pasta recipe but also in sauces and chocolates.

KT: You also preserve a lot of these ingredients ….

CMC:  Yeah, to use in the winter. And there are a few things that the flavour changes when we do a cheong, which is a sweet fermentation when you add equal weights of sugar to, lets say a berry and then you extract the syrup after 3 to 6 months, so we did that last year, Rosehip cheong was really good, we use it for dessert and then we paired it with parsnip because it was available. But it’s also great because now that we have a year under our belt, some things are really starting to come in, especially a lot of the vinegars. I’ve been playing with them personally. Pine vinegar, for example, takes 6 months to a year to make, and we have it now and use it for beef jus, gives it like, a Je ne sais quoi.

…Same with lemon, we will use vinegar instead, primarily goldenrod [common, native Nova Scotia flowering herb], that’s our base vinegar for a lot of things. Sugar too, a lot of recipes need sugar, so instead we’ll use our own black honey to sweeten things and would use goldenrod instead of the lemon, so we’re still getting that sweet and sour that you need for certain items and recepies but it’s using local stuff that we made ourselves, without importing lemons from California or Mexico.

KT: So no lemons at all?

CMC: We do have some that we use in the bar, but in the kitchen, we try not to use it at all. I don’t want to say we don’t use anything that’s not from Nova Scotia, because that’s not true, there are things that we do, but we try hard not to. There is often a substitution that we can find closer to home.

KT: A lot of these preserves are on display at the bar 

CMC: Yep, that’s a beautiful set-up there, right when you come in, we just call it “fermentation wall” technically, most of it is there, but we have a lot stored in the back and in the kitchen. The bar has its own program too, using the same philosophy on bespoke cocktails as we do. It’s very fun to see the same ingredients at the same time, we can learn from each other, see different techniques.

KT: That would also mean the cocktails pair better, cocktails with the food…

CMC: Yeah, we had a cocktail with chanterelle mushrooms in the summer that would go through the pass, it’s very fun and unique. And we do a couple of tailored dinners for that, called The Long Pour. The dinner is based on the cocktails and drinks first and foremost, and the food is second. We have one of the best sommeliers in the country, Samuel Melanson, so we do wine dinners as well. When we opened, Mystic was chef-centric, but it’s not really a chef-driven restaurant – it’s a team-driven restaurant, so this was a way for us to share some of the spotlight.

KT: You have a few special dinners coming up

CMC: Yes, it started last year. At first were only open Wednesday to Saturday, so when we opened on Tuesdays, it wasn’t as busy, so this was a way to try to generate some interest on the slowest day of the week. And it’s just turned into this whole thing now. We did a couple of fermentation dinners, and the Tuna Dinner was a huge hit. I was a little nervous about carving up a whole animal in the middle of the restaurant, but honestly, everyone seemed to have a great time.

… The last tuna was the biggest one, it was 400lb, I wouldn’t want to go more than that, just because it’s really hard to move around. I actually got a scar from the last one, it was falling of and I was trying to grab the tail and hit my head on this shelf, so now I have a tuna scar [chuckles]. And we used pretty much every single thing except for the skin. All the bones are processed, we made stock with the head, I kept the fins… And then with the last one, we did a huge tuna print on an 8-foot tarp using a Japanese technique called Gyotaku: you paint the fish, and you roll the tarp on the fish to imprint. I want to action it off at the next dinner, thinking all proceeds would go to charity.

There was only supposed to be one tuna dinner, but the interest was really big, so we were able to fill three full nights, and now we’re gonna do another one this year. We’re looking at maybe doing swordfish, other Nova Scotia big fish we can work with. 

Wine pairing and Amuse-bouche at Mystic, Halifax. Image by Kateryna Topol.

KT: Speaking of animals, you bring in quite a few interesting ingredients, do you use snout to tail all of them?

CMC: Oh yeah, 100%. We just got another seven whole lambs from Brian MacKay-Lyons, who runs a local farm in Shobac. Last one we were paying around ageing the whole leg in beeswax – we dip the whole thing in beeswax, dry age it for weeks, and it develops a ton of flavour. I started with lobster tails as a trial. We use the hearts in different ways as well, like grading them on top of things. We made raviolo for the Discovery Menu, we did the lamb neck in the pasta, a lot of different areas to use all of the product up. It is challenging and it helps us break in new ideas and try new things.

KT: Let’s go back to the menu, there are a few options

CMC: Biota and Fauna are the main menus, we also have a vegetarian menu, Flora. When we first opened, we had those 3 menus, but we wanted to introduce the Discovery Menu just for the chef’s galley. There are usually 10-20 covers for that. The Discovery Menu changes daily, it’s handwritten, and you don’t know what it’ll be. You know the main component of the dish, so it may say scallop, lamb, but you don’t know what you’re getting, how it’s cooked, how it looks, it’s all kind of a surprise. It’s great for us because we can use it as an avenue to try new dishes, new techniques. A lot of stuff that goes on the main menu has been rotated through the Discovery Menu. Some things are easily 2-3 different versions until I think everyone likes it. Guest feedback is very important as well. 

We recently added a short-form menu; it’s still a full experience, but you get it a little bit quicker with a couple less dishes, but still the same quality of food service and drinks. And then we, of course, our bar bites menu and the Unwritten bar program based on cocktails. The food is based on cocktails, you sit at the bar, and the bartenders take you through all the drinks and the components, similar to the Discovery Menu.

KT: The daily changes with the Discovery Menu, is that driven by the ingredients? 

CMC: Yes, and stuff we want to try. All the dishes have interchangeable parts, like if it’s not endive, it can be radicchio, if it’s gem lettuce, it can be frisee, and so on. We can spin a dish with different ingredients, and you get a completely different outcome. 

And sometimes it is completely onset new dishes… It usually comes together with a couple of different people. I’ll go to my sous chef and go like “hey man I’ve got this idea I want to try, what do you think” and he’ll be like “what if we do this and this” and then between the two or three of us it becomes a better version of the dish, then if it was just me, four eyes see better then two eyes, you know.

So we have a bit of a melting pot of ideas and techniques that come together. I obviously give that creative license as well. Same things with the sommeliers, I value their opinion, they have an amazing palette, Samuel Melanson has an amazing palette, he’s travelled the world and worked at top restaurants, why wouldn’t I let him try? I value these opinions, the collaborations make us and that dish better and stronger. And it makes everyone feel pride in place as well.

KT: Anything you’d like to add 

CMC: Just hammer in the point that it’s a team effort, the ownership with the vision and direction and the team we all came together, and every single person just put in so much work and made it possible.