Northern Michigan’s unique combination of elite sports culture, unpretentiousness and craft-driven charm is making it a hot travel destination.
“UNSALTED” reads the sweatshirt worn by a sunkissed teen standing in line with her friends for ice cream on a warm summer night in Elk Rapids, Michigan. “Unsalted,” in this case, refers to Lake Michigan, the freshwater Great Lake that feels as big as an ocean and looks as brilliantly blue as the Mediterranean. Its vastness gives Michigan the bragging rights of having the most freshwater shoreline in the US.
The lake may be unsalted, but this region of the Midwest is anything but bland. Among Northern Michigan’s breadth of experiences, you can explore quaint towns with vibrant farmers’ markets and great vintage shopping; See rolling farmland, cherry orchards, and nature preserves; Spend the day at an expansive golden sand beach right in town; Hike through dramatic forests; Bike along lakefront trails, and other outdoor activities galore. Toss in its impressive drinks and dining scene, and thoughtful new hotels inspired by local craftsmanship, and, well, you could say Northern Michigan is “having a moment.” But it’s not making a lot of noise about it. That would be counter to what the place is all about.
Northern Michigan’s nostalgia-tinged, American summers dare you to believe that easy living, undivided communities and countries, and courtesy still exist. What sets it apart even more is how under the radar it feels and how laid back. The pace and the attitude feel different. There’s none of the kind of status anxiety that you find in places like the Hamptons, Muskoka, or Prince Edward County, the kind that makes a vacation as stressful as real life. Dress codes in Northern Michigan are basically: clothes.
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This hotel stay was hosted by Dexter Hotel, which did not review or approve this story.
Traverse City Horse Show
This vibe carries over even to events that are stereotypically elitist. Traverse City, the biggest town in the region, is home to the Traverse City Horse Show, a world-class event that runs throughout the summer and fall. For 13 weeks, Olympic and world champion riders descend on Traverse City to compete in classes for multi-million dollar purses. But, in true unpretentious Northern Michigan style, they are taking the stuffiness and intimidation out of that traditionally snooty sport. “We want it to be the fun horse show,” organisers will tell you. For the public, there are free ticketing days that include prime viewing in Adirondack chairs right up against the course, and courses designed for little kids to jump over. The grounds, set against dramatic wooded bluffs, are a great place to come for a drink: Included with your glass of rosé is a chance to see world champions such as top 10 equestrian Kent Farrington or Canadian Olympian Erynn Ballard.
For the athletes, the location is certainly a draw. And they take advantage of all that is at their fingertips when they are not riding. It’s only a very short drive to Old Mission’s and Leelanau Peninsula’s vineyards, crafted spirits at Ethanology distillery, and charming wine and cheese tastings at places like Bos, a day by the water at spectacular Torch Lake, or to quaint towns like Glen Arbor, Elk Rapids, Charlevoix, Harbors Springs, and Northport. There’s the summertime Interlochen Arts Festival, which draws performers like Gladys Knight and Elvis Costello.
Midwest modern cuisine scene
“If you can get a table” seems to be the opening line to every conversation about dining out in this corner of Northern Michigan, these days. The region’s exciting Midwest modern cuisine scene comprises organic farm-to-table restaurants, cheesemakers, breweries and wineries. Modern Bird and its Michelin-restaurant trained chefs-owners Andy Elliott and Emily Stewart, Farm Club, which comprises a restaurant, brewery, bakery, and working farm, The Little Fleet, a lively outdoor space built around local food trucks, and music, or the hyper-local menu at The Cooks’ House all in Traverse City, The Mill Cafe in Glen Arbor, or Masala Magic in Elk Rapids are among those on foodie radars.
Thoughtful hospitality & Unique hotels
A new generation of thoughtful hospitality projects are also helping shape Northern Michigan summers. Michelin Guide-recommended Otis Hotel in Harbor Springs was a derelict roadside motel that’s been given new life as a striking contemporary design destination, filled with curated vintage furniture, art, and collectable design pieces. It looks like the kind of place you travel to Palm Springs to stay at. The mid-century modern-inspired Dexter in Elk Rapids brings city-level quality in design, comfort and food and beverage to a beautiful outdoorsy setting. Both these properties are run by the creative directors of the luxury Detroit lifestyle brand Shinola, and both celebrate Michigan makers and the state’s legacy of design and craftsmanship.
The Dexter’s interior features vintage furnishings sourced from Pernette’s in Northport, lighting from Traverse City-based Britten, and cabinetry, including the hotel’s statement bar, is by Wolf Wood out of Grand Rapids. Under executive chef John Korycki, Noble’s about-to-launch menu will be based on seasonally driven shared plates- Mediterranean-inspired in their use of bright, fresh flavours. Both locals and guests use the lounge area as a common space to enjoy creative cocktails and views over the lake.
In the morning, guests head out into the sunshine for the day’s adventures full of enthusiasm and excitement but not without first joining the queue at Michigander Bakery for an array of artisanal doughnuts and coffee.
Noble Bar, Dexter Hotel, images courtesy of the property.
Among activities not to miss is a trip to Sleeping Bear Sand Dunes and its enormous dunes and bluffs that tower above the lake. Good Morning America once named it the most beautiful place in America. Take note of the sign at the top of the bluffs: “Down is Optional”. This is a 450-foot, 45-degree angle sandhill and even hardened hikers find the two steps forward, one step back hike back up in the sand challenging. Enough people have had to resort to helicopter rescues that the operation now charges $3000 for an airlift. Most people settle for the breathtaking view from the top. Those that have ventured down and into the lake for a swim look like tiny little ducks from above.
The region has a lot of stories to tell. But it never shouts to be heard. Its unhurried, unpretentious vibe feels like just what we need right now.
