As the heavy shroud of Atlantic fog lifts from the glassy waters of Powell’s Cove, fractures of amber morning light spill across the harbour, offering a breathtaking first look at the Eastport Peninsula of Newfoundland and Labrador. This dramatic finger of land, carving out its space against the restless North Atlantic, delivers a sensory awakening for explorers seeking an authentic connection to the rugged wilderness.
It is a region where dense spruce forests abruptly drop off into wind-swept ocean cliffs, where ancient pirate havens shelter modern-day fishing communities, and where the fierce natural beauty of the coast is matched only by the deep, intergenerational hospitality of its people. To step onto the peninsula is to leave the frantic pace of modern life behind and step directly into a living maritime story.
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Parts of this trip were hosted by Happy Adventure Inn, which did not review or approve this story.
Sanctuary in Powell’s Cove
Tucked along this jagged coast lies a refuge for travellers in Powell’s Cove, a stunning seaside retreat overlooking Newman’s Sound: the Happy Adventure Inn. The surrounding community traces its storied roots back to 1710, built around a hidden harbour allegedly chosen as a sanctuary by the 17th-century pirate Peter Easton. But today, the true heartbeat of Happy Adventure lives in the radiant, charming smile of Shar-lett, the daughter of the Inn’s pioneering owners, Chuck and Brenda Matchim. Shar-lett runs the business alongside her partner, James, who manages the restaurant, keeping the family legacy alive; together, they welcome you with the kind of ease and warmth that makes you forget you are checking into a hotel at all. The property is a labour of love where Chuck’s forty years of entrepreneurial experience meets Brenda’s creative spirit, highlighted by her lifelike canvas paintings anchoring the spaces with local scenes.
Left: Shar-lett and James from Happy Adventure Inn, image by Nupur Singh. Right: Happy Adventure Inn, image courtesy of the Inn.
The experience deepens at the acclaimed Chucky’s Seafood and Wild Game Restaurant. Here, over slow mugs of coffee, locally foraged nature, and freshly hauled ocean catches, visitors enjoy slow, hearty, nourishing meals overlooking jaw-dropping scenery that bridges the gap between historical storytelling and island hospitality. Just steps below the dining room tables, the icy depths of the harbour reveal an otherworldly ecosystem. Peering past the docks, the shadows come alive with spectacular marine life as dozens of Northern Comb Jellies float past like translucent ghosts, their specialised cells firing with brilliant bursts of blue and green bioluminescence in the pier shadows. Rising from the darker channels, the massive, amber-hued umbrellas of Lion’s Mane jellyfish drift with a slow, hypnotic weight, trailing a dangerous web of fine, sweeping tentacles through the currents—a stark reminder of the fierce, hidden sting guarding these northern waters.
Salvaje Longhouse Brewery, images courtesy of the brewery.
Trails, tides & Tails
The call of the wilderness draws me out for a morning trek along the Damnable Trail, a world-class hiking network weaving deep through a thick spruce forest before unfolding onto dramatic, wind-swept cliffs that look out at the sweeping expanses of the North Atlantic. After tackling the challenging coastal terrain, the perfect midday reward waits in the neighbouring historic community of Salvage at the striking red Salvaje Longhouse Brewery. Visitors can lounge under a warm golden sun on the patio to try a tasting flight of their craft beers—from the Little Light Lager to the Beach Day IPA—alongside a delicious lobster roll.
Happy Adventure Tours, images courtesy of the tour company.
Conveniently, the brewery serves as a dockside departure point for Happy Adventure Tours. Stepping directly from the longhouse onto the rigid-hull zodiac boat, we roared out into the deep open waters, leaving the iconic red Salvaje Longhouse behind. A row of pastel homes dotted along the shore quickly faded from view, and before I even realised it, we were out in the deep blue ocean. The marine landscape was teeming with life. Hundreds of colourful puffins and razorbills blurred past, nesting along the weathered rock faces and diving into the swells. Just twenty minutes into the offshore tour, our onboard naturalist, Andrew, pointed us in the right direction. Suddenly, two blowhorns ruptured the quiet air as massive tails slapped against the surface, revealing two sperm whales floating serenely at the top, witnessing something of that wild scale felt entirely unreal.
By evening, I made my way to Eastport Beach, where the entire shore lines up with people fishing with their bare hands and kids sprinting along the tide line with nets, scooping up fish by the dozen. This spectacular wonder is known as capelin rolling—a frantic spawning ritual where massive, shimmering silver schools swarm the shallows. Hitting the sand by the millions, their arrival completely transforms the landscape. The surging abundance draws humpback whales, cod, and thousands of seabirds right to the water’s edge to feed alongside humans, washing over the smooth pebbles and pulling the entire ecosystem into the surf.
The Twillingate detour with Captain Dave Boyd
The next morning, setting out on a day trip, the journey loops upward toward Twillingate, the Iceberg Capital of the World. This historic fishing town offers another legendary opportunity for open-ocean whale watching. I stepped aboard with Captain Dave Boyd, eager for an encounter, but the horizon remained quiet. No whales were spotted, but I saw a magnificent bald eagle soaring overhead. The true highlight was visiting Captain Dave Boyd’s Museum, a treasure trove of seafaring lore. Captain Dave Boyd himself is a master storyteller. Reflecting on the unpredictable, untamed Atlantic Ocean, he shared his favourite line with a grin: “She is a woman, she don’t listen always.”
Left: Captain Dave Boyd, image courtesy of Dave Boyd. Right: Humpback whale breaching, image by Jorge Vasconez.
A lasting impression
The day concludes on a private balcony at the Happy Adventure Inn. Free from city light pollution, the night sky transforms into a brilliant, velvety theatre as the glowing band of the Milky Way stretches across the horizon. Below, a matching magic mirrors the stars as sea sparkle takes effect, flashing a vibrant neon blue through the gentle harbour currents. Standing between the starlight above and the neon glow below, the entire universe puts on a show for a harbour that has truly stolen my heart—leaving me with the absolute certainty that this untamed edge of the world can always call me back with just one echoing blowhorn.
