Grenada in a nutshell: Where emerald waters meet deep culinary roots

Set among the cluster of islands in the Caribbean Sea, all together Grenada occupies about half of the landmass of Toronto. But despite its modest size, Grenada is a vibrant country with rich culture and biodiversity. Officially referred to as the Spice Isle, Grenada is best known for its spice (nutmeg and cinnamon) plantations and awe-inspiring beaches.   

The country encompasses the main island of Grenada and a group of smaller islands like Carriacou and Petite Martinique, all of which you can see in just a couple of days. But the tropical climate, scenic views, and laid-back atmosphere call for slow travel and prolonged exploration.
The proximity to the equator makes for brief yet spectacular sunsets, worth setting an alarm for because you just might miss it getting ready for dinner. The dark, starry nights are easy to sleep through, melodic frog songs setting the ambient noise for the night. The mornings tend to take on a slower pace, waking slowly to hearty breakfasts and fresh fruit.

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This hotel stay was hosted by the Grenada Tourism Authority, which did not review or approve this story.

Annandale Waterfalls, Grenada, and bananas sold at the visitor’s centre. Images by Kateryna Topol.

Cruising the mainland

Private transfers are a preferred choice when touring the island, so we boarded Mr Karry’s shiny black van for a full day of exploration. Through the car windows, head on a swivel, I took in the island views, the colourful homes, the busy streets, the breadfruit and nutmeg trees framing the curving roads.

St. George’s is the capital of the island and its busiest urban centre and a cruise ship port. Naturally, the city is home to many shops and restaurants, but the locals prefer to spend their money in Grenville, the second largest city with fewer tourists roaming the streets. Moving across the island, it’s hard not to notice the wreckages on land and water. A mix of factors throughout history contributed to ships being left abandoned along the shores and Cold War planes forever parked in the deserted Pearls Airport Airfield. The cleanup operations are well underway, and one of the prime examples of environmental restoration is the Port Louis Marina, now a base for many luxury vessels exploring the Caribbean Sea. 

Between the towns and villages are the island’s many public beaches, separated from one another by small patches of land. Grand Anse Beach is the largest in Grenada, stretching three kilometres across the white sandy beach. A quieter respite can be found just a few minutes away at Morne Rouge Beach (BBC Beach). Set in a bay, this smaller beach has smoother waters, well suited for paddleboarding. 

Annandale Waterfalls are perhaps the island’s biggest attraction, but at 9 AM on a weekday, we had the place to ourselves. The cool, cascading waterfall is framed by a tropical green wall, a bit of sunshine cutting through the treetops like a concert spotlight. Most come to swim in the emerald water; many stay for an afternoon at the scenic cafe with an unobstructed view of the falls. 

A short drive takes us to the Grand Étang National Park, a volcanic reserve and rainforest in the central highlands of Saint Andrew Parish. Gaining elevation of 1,130+ feet, my ears begin to pop rapidly. At the top is Grand Étang Lake, a crater lake you can hike around, one of the many trails in the reserve. But most people come here to see the Mona Monkeys. An Old World monkey that came to Grenada aboard slave ships in the 18th century and became a staple animal in the local forests where there are no predators. We line up along the road, arms out, as the “Monkey Whisperer” hands us each a banana slice, before summoning the monkeys down from the trees. “What is his name?” I ask Karry. “We do not know his true identity,” he laughs in response. The monkey descends from the trees onto my arms, promptly hopping away to gather the bananas from other park visitors.

Mona Monkeys at Grand Étang Lake, Grenada. Images by Kateryna Topol.

SVG Air flight to Carriacou. Images by Kateryna Topol.

Day trip to Carriacou

The Grenadines make for a great day trip from the mainland. Osprey Ferry operates a regular round-trip service between Grenada and Carriacou, but this journey crosses some rough water, so people choose to opt for a short flight. Departing from Maurice Bishop International Airport, this 20-minute SVG Air flight comes with a handwritten paper ticket and no in-flight amenities, just a hop and a skip over the sea. 

While Grenada’s mainland sits outside of the hurricane belt, Carriacou and the nearby islands are right in its path. The 2024 Hurricane Beryl, an extremely rare tropical cyclone, nearly wiped the islands off the face of the Earth. The impact of this Category 4 (some say 5) landfall affected the entire population, nearly all buildings, and caused massive damage to local vegetation and the environment. Cariacou’s population of roughly 7,000 people are actively rebuilding and welcoming visitors to its pristine white sand beaches. 

Carriacou and Grenadine Islands. Images by Kateryna Topol.

Set aboard Lady Melita with Lambi Tours, we cruise around the islands, taking in the clear turquoise waters, snorkelling with turtles, and basking in the sun with a cold bottle of Carib beer. Carriacou’s sculpture garden, A World Adrift, is one of the most popular snorkelling sites in Grenada. Created by sculptor Jason de Caires Taylor, the sculptures of children act as artificial reefs, easing the environmental pressure on the locality. 

Lunch is served at Tim’s Sunset Bar on Petite St Vincent, the smallest of the three islands. Due to the hurricane aftermath, the island is now only reachable by boat and still makes for a popular spot. Tim’s bar is a place where people can truly unwind while enjoying authentic island cuisine and hospitality. Cooked to order on the grill, the menu includes fresh catch like lobster, red snapper, and a local favourite, lambi (queen conch).

Tim’s Sunset Bar on Petite St Vincent, Grenada. Images by Kateryna Topol.

Left to right: Grenadian lunch at Belmont Estate, tuna at the Aquarium Restaurant on Magazine Beach, and tacos at La Plywood Beach Bar Café on BBC Beach. Images by Kateryna Topol.

Grenadian flavours

Traditional local foods include fried bakes and plantains, plenty of seafood, and the national dish called the oil down – a hearty one-pot stew with mixed meats and breadfruit, served on Wednesdays. Among the favourite casual spots is La Plywood Beach Bar Café located on BBC Beach. Open all day daily, this casual cafe-bar serves fresh tacos and burgers and at night turns into a bit of a club with live artist performances and DJs. Grand Anse Beach favourite is Umbrella’s Beach Bar, a much bigger and more popular bar known for its Island Jab chicken wings (sweet and spicy). An elevated beachfront dining alternative nearby is Aquarium Restaurant on Magazine Beach, an open-air restaurant with a robust wine cellar and a rooftop bar.

A new movement is starting to take shape on the island, striving toward locally grown, farm-to-table plates. Mount Cinnamon Beach Resort, locally favoured as a dining destination, started a green kitchen three years ago. Tucked away behind the villas is a dense garden, looked after by groundskeeper Mr Lincoln, who uses regenerative farming techniques to supply the hotel’s kitchen with fresh herbs and vegetables. Deeper into the island is Grenada’s newest dining establishment, Bohemian Heights. This three-storey restaurant lounge offers unprecedented views of the Grenada and, much like Mount Cinnamon, has an on-premises vegetable garden guests can see from the terrace.

Bohemian Heights restaurant and garden, Grenada. Images by Kateryna Topol.

Belmont Estate guided tour. Images by Kateryna Topol.

Belmont Estate, on the other hand, is where visitors go to learn about chocolate production. A tour of the property will take you through the entire process with a hot cup of cocoa. The on-site restaurant, however, is the true gem of the property, serving prix-fixe authentic Grenadian cuisine with a wealth of delicious options. This lunch spot is a must.

No visit to Grenada is complete without a stop at the River Antoine Rum Distillery. The distillery produces agricole rum (using sugarcane juice) using the same manual techniques they did in 1785. Between hand-feeding sugarcane into the mill, open-fire heating of the still, and bottling, the facility employs 90 people. This is the last operating watermill in the Western Hemisphere, and the entire process, quite frankly, feels somewhat romantic, despite its high ABV content.

River Antoine Rum Distillery guided tour. Images by Kateryna Topol.

Where to stay in Grenada 

Sunset over BBC Beach and the spa at Silversands Grand Anse. Images by Kateryna Topol.

Grenada tours

Quarantine Point Park, Grenada. Image by Kateryna Topol.

Need to know if you go

• When to visit: Dry season is January to May, which is also the busiest season. May to June is more humid and rainy, however, rains are very brief. 
• Customs forms: Travellers are required to complete the online Immigration and Customs Form, which will be available 72 hours prior to your arrival. 
• Language: English is the official language on the island, mixed with Grenadian Creole English.
• Currency: USD is accepted, but if you can, bring East Caribbean Dollars (ECD); most businesses also accept credit card payments.   
• Tap water: Is chlorinated and considered safe to drink; however, it is not recommended for people with sensitive stomachs. 
• Packing essentials: Make sure to pack bug spray and after-bite, sunblock and aloe for the sunburns, a hat and a fan; snorkel equipment can be rented, but you might prefer your own mask. 
• Getting around: There is no rideshare on the island; taxis are available, but securing a recommended driver is preferred. We booked with Karry Taxi & Tours and Khaleb at (473) 537-0020. Download WhatsApp to communicate with drivers and hotel staff. 
• Tipping: Most hotels and restaurants add a service charge of 10% and VAT at 15%; tipping is at your discretion.

Quarantine Point Park, Grenada. Images by Kateryna Topol.