St. John’s, Newfoundland and Labrador (NL), Canada, is well known for the many adventures and excursions you can do over the summer. From whale watching to iceberg sightseeing, there is a lot to do. In late fall, however, the excursions come to a still. But the city maintains its charm and there are still things to do and see. Just on the ground and at a slower pace. Here’s my list of top things to do in St. John’s off-season.
In November, the weather here is gloomy and foggy. There is no sunshine in sight but the fog is a mood on its own. Nesting over bright greenery and ripe red berries is a bit of a mysterious feel. Walking along the shore lined with industrial ships offers a little view of the St. John’s Harbour but the wall of fog is there to set the scene. Since we did not rent a car, everything on this list is reachable on foot.
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Above: Dinner at The Merchant Tavern. Below: Seafood chowder at Oliver’s Restaurant and the front of YellowBelly Brewery.
Bars & Restaurants
There are quite a few breweries in St. John’s, all along the main road. Bannerman Brewing Co. is perhaps the most modern with a large open space, communal tables and a creative menu. Nearby is Brewdock, a staple establishment in NL, a beer bar that showcases craft beers from across the province. YellowBelly Brewery, at the opposite end of the centre, is an institution, there is even one in the airport. Here you will find a traditional pub atmosphere sharing space with a brewery.
For lunch head over to Oliver’s Restaurant, where the sets are comfortable and the bread is freshly baked. Naturally, I opted in for a seafood chowder. Blue On Water is also a good lunch option, the menu is naturally seafood-focused, and the space is quite interesting divided into a bar and a restaurant with a barrel booth on the bar side.
For dinner, we opted for Chinched and The Merchant Tavern. Chinched restaurant and deli is a smaller spot and might require reservations. People come here for charcuterie and fresh meet-forward dishes. Chinched also has a pretty fun cocktail menu. The Merchant Tavern is all about fine fair and spirits. It’s a beautiful restaurant in a historic building with lovely original detailing, a dimly lit atmosphere, and great service. The menu is fresh, wild, local, and sustainable. I also quite enjoyed their cocktail selection though wine is always my go-to for dinner.
Visit Quidi Vidi
If you are up for it, there is a fairly easy walk to Quidi Vidi from Downtown St. John’s along the paved Forest Road with a few lovely viewpoints along the way (under an hour). The first stop here is Mallard Cottage for lunch. The restaurant is set in a house and has a very homey feel. The menu is filled with hearty dishes and seafood fare like crab cakes, braised pork belly, and potato-heavy dishes. The cocktail menu has berry-infused libations, smoked sips and local beers. Images above.
A short walk around the cottage will expose The Wharf at Quidi Vidi. Boat houses and colourful boats are docked along the way and in the centre of this survey row is the Quidi Vidi Brewery. The brewery is sitting over the water with big windows letting in the views. The top-floor balcony overlooks the Wharf, it is easy to spend time here, tasting the breweries lineup and observing the birds floating on the water.
Explore the Downtown
Between Water and Duckworth Streets, there are a few interesting art galleries, cute gift and home decor shops, and other establishments. Craft Council of Newfoundland & Labrador is a great place to stop to shop and explore seasonal textile exhibitions. Eastern Edge is a contemporary art gallery and nearby is the Leyton Gallery Of Fine Art.
Go for a hike
There are quite a few hiking routes of various difficulties to and from Quidi Vidi. Some go inland, others go along the shore. This hike is elevated, close to the edge and involves a lot of stairs, there are also quite a few areas without barriers and a part that involves a chain. There are many stunning lookout points like North Head Trail Lookout and the Signal Hill National Historic Site. If so desired you can Uber or drive to them for the view.
Choose your trail on AllTrails
Where to stay in St. John’s
The Inn by Mallard Cottage, Quidi Vidi
A new-ish addition to the Mallard Cottage Restaurant the Inn opened in 2017. This is a charming small hotel with just a few rooms looking out on the fishing village. There are 2 guest houses with 8 king suites equipped with mini-fridges, stocked with drinks, and breakfast is included.
Reservations: theinnbymallardcottage.ca
The Franklin Hotel
A self-catered hotel in the heart of St. John’s, right about in the middle of the main strip. There are 10 suites with various size bedding, all equipped with a great coffee setup, and a mini fridge. The ceilings are tall, the minimal decor works well with the wooden detailing.
Book directly on franklinstays.ca or on Booking.com