A cross-island road trip complete with scenic drives, charming villages, and decadent meals.
Looking up at the Panmure Island Lighthouse, I notice a small creature to my side, a red fox weaving between the horses. She settles on the grass next to the horses like they are lifelong friends. I take a few light steps towards the fence; the fox stands up on alert, keeping an eye on my movements for a moment before scurrying into the nearby meadow. A journey through Prince Edward Island is filled with encounters with nature, with some turning into core memories. This one is mine.
Prince Edward Island (PEI) is Canada’s smallest province, known for its red cliffs, lighthouses, and fresh seafood. Breathtaking scenery and boundless green parks, bordering sandy beaches and storybook villages, make PEI a popular road-tripping destination. Some visitors come here for Anne of Green Gables, others come for the love of seafood and potatoes.
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This hotel stay was hosted by Tourism Prince Edward Island, which did not review or approve this story.
A snapshot in history
Mi’kmaq people have lived on this island for millennia. The first settlers were French Acadians who had a peaceful and cooperative relationship with the Mi’kmaw. When the New Englanders captured the island, they deported the Acadians back to France, one boat at a time. In time, some Acadian families found their way back. Today, PEI is quite multicultural and home to two First Nations (Abegweit and Lennox Island). You can see much of this history while travelling around the island, in museums, historic cultural sites, and heritage centres.
Points East Coastal Drive
Arriving at Charlottetown Airport (YYG), pick up a rental car and head East. The drive cuts through fifty beaches, some with boardwalks, some with great hiking trails. Panmure Island Provincial Park, with its white sandy beach, is perhaps the most popular and picturesque stop on the island. Here you will notice red benches, common throughout the island, always set in a place with a great view.
Navigating the roads, the smell of the ocean and fresh-cut grass in the summer add to the leisurely atmosphere. PEI’s oldest lighthouse, Point Prim, is one of the main stops on this side of the island, followed by Cape Bear Lighthouse and Marconi Station, which offers a great view of the Northumberland Strait and Nova Scotia. For wildlife encounters, consider a visit to Buffaloland Park or ride off into the sunset on horseback along a lakeside beach. Plan a stop in Montague, a lovely town with multiple dining options and a picturesque waterfront. Stroll through the historic Georgetown, taking in the colourful homes and small local shops, like the Maroon Pig.
Georgetown and Panmure Island Lighthouse, PEI. Images by Kateryna Topol.
Copper Bottom Brewing Co., Montague, PEI. Images by Kateryna Topol.
Where to eat & Drink
There are plenty of dining options along this route, both sit-down and takeout. Many restaurants are open seasonally, so it is worth checking the hours ahead of time (this applies island-wide). Seafood lovers will enjoy a visit to the Point Prim Chowder House (next to the lighthouse), Clam Diggers Beach House and Restaurant in Cardigan, or The Seafood Shack, located in the heart of Morell. Wheelhouse in Georgetown is best for an elevated sit-down meal, while beer and cider enthusiasts might prefer The Terrace at Double Hill Cidery, Bogside Brewing Co, or Copper Bottom Brewing Co in Montague. While in Montague, grab an ice cream cone from What’s the Scoop?.
Where to stay
Nellie’s Landing in Murray Harbour is a bit of a destination on this side of the island. Owners Jen Smith and Calvin Fraser turned this marina into a place where locals and visitors can stay, dock, dine, and even sing karaoke with the Aperol sunset as the backdrop. Accommodations include floating wine barrels with panoramic views and outdoor sitting areas, houseboats, and spacious trailers. Cosy B&Bs are common in this region. Dewars Montague and Green Gay Bulls B&B, for example, are both located near Montague. Alternatively, families can choose private rentals like Wild Pines Cabins in Eldon.
The vibrant Charlottetown
Charlottetown is the beating heart of PEI. This small but vibrant city is buzzing with life, people strolling the historic streets, spending slow afternoons on its many terraces, and pausing for live performances. Spend the early evening exploring Downtown’s Victoria Row, bopping around its charming streets, indulging in multiple small meals, especially if this is your only night. Peake’s Wharf Historic District, on the other hand, is a great spot for a morning or afternoon stroll, exploring shops on the waterfront.
Charlottetown is a base for many tour companies. From here, you can join Top Notch Charters for an excursion on a 45-foot lobster fishing vessel. All tours are immersive and informative, and the sunset sail includes a dinner on board. If history is a point of interest, spend two hours with a sixth-generation islander on a walking tour or head out on a guided four-hour Anne of Green Gables adventure. Mix up your travel routine with a live theatre performance at the Confederation Centre or spend a couple of hours bowling at The Alley.
Charlottetown, PEI. Images by Kateryna Topol.
Where to eat & Drink
Much of the liveliness of this city is in its diverse culinary scene with nearly 80 establishments to choose from. Many spots, naturally, focus on seafood, and Sea Rocket Oyster House is certainly a popular spot. For wood-fired pizza and fresh, hearty pasta, the newest addition to the city is Pink Crow, where, in a dimly lit, modern, decorated environment, you will also find steaks and craft cocktails. The ultimate cocktail destination, however, is Reddins Speakeasy. Located in the city’s original speakeasy venue, this new cocktail bar offers a glimpse into the Island’s Prohibition era. And don’t skip out on the Charlottetown brunch, there are many options, some available during the week. Time permitting, indulge in High Tea and Tales at the historic Haviland Club.
Maximise your culinary stops with a visit to Founder’s Food Hall and Market, where you will find 15 culinary options to choose from (in addition to other shops). Culinary excursions include a North Shore Oyster Tour with Lunch and Charlottetown Wine Tasting Tour with three wine-focused destination stops. In the fall, the city is also host to the PEI International Shellfish Festival (September), Fall Flavours Food & Drink Festival (September), and PEI Spirits Festival (November).
Where to stay
Unpack your bags downtown at The Holman Grand Hotel, a modern property with full amenities including an on-site restaurant, Redwater Rustic Grille, indoor pool, fitness facilities, and a spa. The hotel is located just steps away from the main strip. If Marriott rewards are a priority, stay at The Delta Prince Edward nearby or opt for a more homey stay at the Slaymaker and Nichols Gastro House and Inn.
The Holman Grand Hotel, Charlottetown, PEI. Images by Kateryna Topol.
Red Sands Shore to Summerside
This leg of the trip will take you along The Red Sands Shore to Summerside. Driving along Rte 19, stop at the Skmaqn-Port-La-Joye Fort Amherst National Historic Site, where the Grand Alliance between the Mi’kmaq and French was forged. Next, park for a while at the Argyle Shore Provincial Park to take in the red sandy cliffs and maybe even jump into the terracotta-coloured water.
Spend an afternoon or early evening at the picturesque Victoria by the Sea. This enchanting fishing village has it all: a Seaport Lighthouse, a scenic boardwalk and a small beach, galleries, a playhouse, and great dining options. En route to Summerside, stop at Marine Rail Park in Borden-Carleton to see the Confederation Bridge, the world’s longest bridge spanning over ice-covered water (there is also a lighthouse, of course).
In Summerside, visit Eptek Art and Culture Centre and Lefurgey Cultural Centre for a taste of local arts and crafts and then stroll around Spinnaker’s Landing, popping into shops and enjoying locally made fudge.
Victoria by the Sea, PEI. Images by Kateryna Topol.
Spinnaker’s Landing, Summerside, PEI. Images by Kateryna Topol.
Where to eat & Drink
Having at least one meal in Victoria by the Sea is highly recommended because here the seafood comes directly from boat to plate. Landmark Oyster House is a local favourite. Set inside a traditional home, this family-owned business prides itself on a friendly atmosphere and the freshest oysters in the world. Other fresh seafood options include Casa Mia by the Sea, The Lobster Barn on the Pier, and Richards by the Sea.
In Summerside, the most noticeable restaurant will be Deckhouse Pub and Eatery, making up a portion of Spinnaker’s Landing, it sits right on the water. Nearby, you will also find Summerside Shipyard and Evermore Brewing Co.. For a casual lunch and a coffee, pop into Samuel’s Coffee House, or enjoy a sit-down meal at the House of Spice and South Central Kitchen and Provisions. Don’t skip dessert from Holman’s Ice Cream Parlour. Taking food to-go could be a great option if you have an overnight stay with a view or a long drive ahead. If you are visiting in July, make sure to check the schedule for the Raceway Days at the Summerside Lobster Carnival.
Landmark Oyster House, Victoria by the Sea, PEI. Images by Kateryna Topol.
Where to stay
Stay at The Loyalist Country Inn right across from the Spinnaker’s Landing to break up the drive more evenly. The hotel has an on-site restaurant and an indoor pool. Alternatively, there are a few options for stays in Victoria by the Sea, mostly private rentals and B&Bs, some of which fit as many as six people.
North Cape Coast Drive & Green Gables Shore
Continuing along the Red Shore, the route will criss-cross with North Cape Coastal Drive, looping back to the airport along the Green Gables Shore. In late August, the signs for new potatoes begin to multiply, pointing towards honour system stands on the side of flowering potato farms. Wildflowers edge the roads and park entrances, adding a pleasant fragrance to the whole scene.
Much of the Acadian history can be found on this side of the island, centrally located at the Acadian Museum and Village Musical Acadien, which hosts live musical performances. A unique attraction, perhaps to the world, is The Bottle Houses and Gardens in Cape-Egmont. A passion project of one man that turned into pride of the region, this site is unlike anything you’ve ever seen before. The gardens make a great spot for a picnic.
The Bottle Houses and Gardens, Cape-Egmont, PEI. Images by Kateryna Topol.
Explore Kensington Railway Station, a National Historic Site of Canada and home to the PEI Haunted Mansion. At the station, you will also find small cafes, art galleries, and other boutique shops. The return route to the airport curves along Route 2 to 101 through Park Corner, with pit stops at the New London Lighthouse, Anne of Green Gables Museum, and Green Gables Heritage Place.
Drive through PEI National Park from Cavendish to North Rustico and plan to spend at least an hour in this colourful corner of the island. Cavendish Boardwalk, located off the main road, is a busy outdoor plaza with shops and restaurants door-to-door. A short drive towards the water will take you to the spectacular Cavendish Beach. Those looking to explore and hike have multiple boardwalks and trails to choose from, while a more leisurely pace can be found on the sandy shore, next to postcard-worthy candy-striped lifeguard houses.
Cavendish park and beach, PEI. Images by Kateryna Topol.
Where to eat
The corner of Portage Rd and Brackley Point Rd is a parking lot packed with delicious offerings, including Brackley Bay Oyster Company, L’il Richard’s (a smaller Richard’s Fresh Seafood), and The Brackley Bar. While here, you might want to pick up a few souvenirs at Oh Hey by the Sea. The Original Richard’s is a 10 min drive, across Covehead Harbour Lighthouse, sharing the lot with Roe’s seafood shack. If you haven’t had fresh lobster yet, or won’t say no to another one, this stop is a must (bring change for the $2 parking fee).
Lennox Island First Nations offers a unique culinary experience: Bannock and Clams in the Sand (in our case, oysters). This recently revived tradition invites visitors to knead the dough, which will be cooked directly in the fire while fresh oysters (or clams) pop open over the heat just above. The visit includes a walk through the on-site museum where you will learn about Mi’kmaq history. Make sure to book 48 hours in advance.
Bannock and Oysters in the Sand in Lennox Island, PEI. Images by Kateryna Topol.
Oysters and beer at The Original Richard’s, PEI. Images by Kateryna Topol.
Where to stay
Choose a unique stay for this visit and sleep in a lighthouse with a view of a red, sandy shore at the West Point Lighthouse Inn and Museum. Designated as a heritage site, the Inn has only eleven rooms, with the ground-floor units exiting directly onto the beach. Make sure to pack snacks and drinks to enjoy with the sunset views. Alternatively, stay near Cavendish, closer to the dunes, at the Cavendish Breeze Inn or rent an oceanfront retreat like Juan Carniel with a heated pool and hot tub.
West Point Lighthouse Inn, PEI. Images by Kateryna Topol.
West Point Lighthouse Museum, PEI. Images by Kateryna Topol.
